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Technical Brake Caliper Location?

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by thegearhead, Jan 10, 2021.

  1. thegearhead
    Joined: Nov 23, 2015
    Posts: 51

    thegearhead
    Member

    So on my lil 50' Crosley i'm building a disk brake setup where's the best place to place the caliper traditional front of rotor at 9 o'clock or rear at 3 o-clock? My suspension setup is leaf spring front with steering box and drag link to driver spindle then the tie rod is in front of axle. Factory setup.
    So i got more room for caliper at the 12 or 3 o-clock position but not sure whats best.
     
  2. jimmy six
    Joined: Mar 21, 2006
    Posts: 11,529

    jimmy six
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Most I’ve ever seen through wheels and my own are at 1:30... or between 12 and 3
     
  3. jaw22w
    Joined: Mar 2, 2013
    Posts: 1,496

    jaw22w
    Member
    from Indiana

    Calipers at 3:00 on the left will be behind and 3:00 on the right will be ahead. 12:00 would be the same on both sides. You need a better descriptor.
     
  4. Budget36
    Joined: Nov 29, 2014
    Posts: 9,066

    Budget36
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Where ever the bleeder comes out at the highest point would be my way.
     
    56don, '51 Norm, Just Gary and 7 others like this.

  5. hemihotrod66
    Joined: May 5, 2019
    Posts: 662

    hemihotrod66
    Member

    I really don't think the caliper cares where it is positioned on the rotor...Just make sure the bleeder screw is at the top...
     
  6. Mr48chev
    Joined: Dec 28, 2007
    Posts: 31,298

    Mr48chev
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    ^^^^ THIS!!!

    It doesn't matter if the caliper is on the front side of the spindle or the back side all that much but the bleeder screw absolutely has to be at the highest point when you position the caliper on the spindle.
    Ascetics says to put them on the back side of the spindle but clearance issues with steering and other pieces don't always allow for that.
     
    Johnny Gee, Just Gary and Budget36 like this.
  7. seb fontana
    Joined: Sep 1, 2005
    Posts: 7,515

    seb fontana
    Member
    from ct

    What are you using for calipars/rotors/hubs?
     
  8. dana barlow
    Joined: May 30, 2006
    Posts: 4,777

    dana barlow
    Member
    from Miami Fla.
    1. Y-blocks

    Crosley,the one I had /Hot Shot,had factory 4 wheel disk,mount them stock.
     
  9. Mike VV
    Joined: Sep 28, 2010
    Posts: 2,634

    Mike VV
    Member
    from SoCal

    Front, back, 2-o-clock, 4 o-clock, etc. etc., doesn't really work...
    All you have to do is swap the left side to the right side and that idea goes out the window..!

    All in all, it really doesn't matter. Many/most suspensions will have something...in the way of putting the big lump of a caliper in any given spot. You most likely have to put them...where they fit best.
    Be sure to check the "lock to lock" position with the caliper in place. You don't want it crashing into anything while turning, while at full bump stop, etc.

    But as os others have said, and it bears repeating, bleeder..."up".

    Mike
     
  10. fiftyv8
    Joined: Mar 11, 2007
    Posts: 5,336

    fiftyv8
    Member
    from CO & WA

    I did read years ago when disc brakes were the new rage that a certain position (my memory ain't what it use to be but guessing at in front of the spindle) provides greater stress on wheel bearings.
    Maybe somebody else saw this article or knows the tech side of things to confirm or deny it.
     
  11. Uhhh....the front and back don’t change when you go to the other side.


    Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
     
  12. thegearhead
    Joined: Nov 23, 2015
    Posts: 51

    thegearhead
    Member

    My 50 Crosley has them as well but there not up for the drive train swap haha
     
  13. thegearhead
    Joined: Nov 23, 2015
    Posts: 51

    thegearhead
    Member

    calipers/rotors are from a 81 honda civic and hubs are original Crosley hubs that has been machined to fit the rotor.
    Was hard finding eveything to fit inside a 12" dia rim haha
     
  14. First try to find a spot that puts your bleeder up high.
    If you can't find a great location with a good angle for bleeding, then find a spot for the caliper that clears everything whether it is 4 o clock or 2:30 or 7 or anywhere it is safe. and dont worry about the bleeder location....
    It will work anywhere.
    If you find that you cannot bleed by the bleeder fitting because its not at the top, or by cracking the hose fitting, usually a banjo bolt,
    then you can do what I do...
    Take off the calipers, stick a board or thick metal spacer between the pads to act as the missing rotor, bleed in whatever position works, then put the calipers back on the rotors.
    I have been using that method for years on dune buggies etc..

    Sent from my SM-G981V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
    Last edited: Jan 11, 2021
    Hnstray and Budget36 like this.
  15. thegearhead
    Joined: Nov 23, 2015
    Posts: 51

    thegearhead
    Member

    Got my backing plates and brackets finished then mocked everything up. Looks like it well be at the 2 o-clock position looking from the drivers side.
     

    Attached Files:

  16. wisdonm
    Joined: Jun 20, 2011
    Posts: 444

    wisdonm
    Member

    If you look at high performance cars from the side you will find the front calipers are behind the spindle and the rear calipers are in front of the wheel center. This helps with reducing polar moment, I believe it also adds a component of anti-dive.
     
  17. Ebbsspeed
    Joined: Nov 11, 2005
    Posts: 5,848

    Ebbsspeed
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Bleeder "up" isn't as critical as "bleeder port" up. Make sure you know where the bleeder port is located within the cylinder, because that point has to be at 12:00. If you can't mount them that way, then you need to do as @dare-to-be-different said and bleed them with the caliper removed from the mount and rotated to the correct position, bled, then re-mounted.

    caliper.JPG
     
    Maicobreako and Budget36 like this.

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