I checked the TECH ARCHIVES and didn't find anything using several search options so I'll ask the experts. Are any of the "brake (hydraulic clutch, etc.) bleeding (one person) outfits any good? If so, which are recommended? I only need to use one of the 3 or 4 times a year!
I have a MityvacII and it works great. I bought a cheap replica of it first but it literally fell apart. Great tool.
I've used a Mityvac for years but nothing but a pressure bleeder beats the old two-man system. Often times you can't get enough continuous velocity to get the air bubbles to come out of the high spots over differential pumpkins or extra-long brake hoses. A pressure bleeder is the best bet for instances like this. Vacuum bleeders work too slow because they suck a lot of air around the threads of the bleed screw along with a bit of brake fluid. I have a set of various-sized bleed screws with the ends drilled out. That way I can screw them in tight and ONLY suck brake fluid, not air around the threads, as well. When I'm done, I replace the screw and vacuum bleed any air that might have gotten into the wheel cylinder or caliper.
Thanks for all the quick answers! I checked Northern Tools site and they show the MityVacII for about $38. I know the homemade one works well also and doesn't cost shit! Thanks again- I just didn't want to invest $300 or more for something I would use 3 or 4 times a year!
I use those one-way valve bleeder screws on my car, they work great... no leaks from them. I crack one open, connect a vacuum hose and jar on the screw, and pump the pedal a few times. Only way it could be easier is to get someone else to do it!
check this out. it stomps any of the suction systems in their face. however, it is a bit costly. so that sucks but if you're a car guy you probably have friends who are too. go in together and buy one. plus it's on sale http://search.cartserver.com/search/search.cgi?cartid=a-6834&category=databaseDescript&maxhits=5&keywords=BRAG300
I made a pressure bleeder from an old MC resivoir cover, a barbed hose fitting, some hose, and a pressure regulator. Set the pressure at 5-10 PSI, hook up the air hose, and open the bleeder. The only problem you may run into is if your not paying attention and bleed all the fluid out of the master. I generally bleed 15-20 seconds at a time, then check the level. The other advantage that pressure bleeding has over vacuum bleeding is thatyou can spot leaks. A vacuum bleeder will suck air in instead of forcing fluid out.
I have a Mity Vac and a pressure pot...I prefer the pressure pot. It does the job with just a few pumps on the tank and then I can run around to the four corners and bleed away.... Pat
I just couldn't get the mighty vac to work on my new system, there was too much leak from the bleeder screws. Speed bleeders are great, they work, and it can't get any easier.
....and when the bottle gets empty and you're not paying attention, you fill yor system with air. That's why REAL pressure bleeders seperate the fluid and air chambers with a bladder. When the brake fluid is exhausted, the flow stops and you DON'T fill your system with air. As for vacuum bleeders sucking air, pull the bleeders out and coat the threads with chassis grease and re-install the bleeders. That'll stop the worst of the air bleeding. or.... take a bleed screw and drill a hole through the seat. Screw the new bleeder screw in tight to stop the thread leaks and bleed the line. Move the bleed screw from wheel to wheel to bleed the air out then replace it with the original bleed screw and do a couple more pumps with that bleed screw to get out any air you let in during the screw swap process.
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