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Projects brainfreeze 1930 model A

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by brainfreeze, Dec 8, 2014.

  1. AHotRod
    Joined: Jul 27, 2001
    Posts: 11,270

    AHotRod
    Member

    Do you have a short enough radiator to use?
     
  2. Runnin shine
    Joined: Apr 12, 2013
    Posts: 3,251

    Runnin shine
    Member

    Love it!
    Reminds me of the Pagoda City Coupe in green. I mean this as a compliment.


    Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
     
    brainfreeze likes this.
  3. sloppy jalopies
    Joined: Jun 29, 2015
    Posts: 4,533

    sloppy jalopies
    Member

    If you don't want to cut the '32... try a shorter '28-'29 shell with an overhead light diffuser as the insert...
    Pix of '31. insert does 2 grills. $13. lowes. little flat black and shazam.
    DSCN1071.JPG DSCN1073.JPG DSCN1074.JPG DSCN1075.JPG
    buddy's '31 sedan... does move the radiator back about 1/2" ... DSCN0820.JPG
     
  4. brainfreeze
    Joined: Jul 17, 2012
    Posts: 170

    brainfreeze
    Member

    im going to build one to suit, so may have to make it thicker than normal
     
    AHotRod likes this.
  5. brainfreeze
    Joined: Jul 17, 2012
    Posts: 170

    brainfreeze
    Member

    thanks mate!

    i love matts coupe! the pagoda city coupe! I've drawn a lot of inspiration from it, although mines a fair bit lower it still has the same sort of feel i think
     
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  6. brainfreeze
    Joined: Jul 17, 2012
    Posts: 170

    brainfreeze
    Member

    I've got a 31 shell here but i like the look of the 32 shell, as for the insert i have something in mind that ill try to do once i have the height sorted
     
    Runnin shine likes this.
  7. sloppy jalopies
    Joined: Jun 29, 2015
    Posts: 4,533

    sloppy jalopies
    Member

    Build it your way, you will smile every time you walk up to it...
    19 years ago I chopped a glass shell for my rod, liked it so I bought a shiny new Brookville for my '33... made a 3" round insert from scraps, welded it into the grill insert's center, tacked in a chrome S hook from a bungie [last name is smith]
    home made '32 insert with 5/16" x 1/16" strips [scraps from work] and some 3/8" brakeline...
    way before computer sorry no pix...
    ... go freeze go !
     
    brainfreeze likes this.
  8. IronTrap
    Joined: Jul 13, 2011
    Posts: 468

    IronTrap
    Member

    This thing has the look, sits nice! Really dig the subrails you made!
     
    brainfreeze likes this.
  9. brainfreeze
    Joined: Jul 17, 2012
    Posts: 170

    brainfreeze
    Member

    thanks matt! i follow you on instagram and watch your youtube channel! love the pagoda city coupe! i wanted to do my steering box like yours, started looking for one but turns out cause I'm RHD it lands right where the starter is! so I'm gonna have to go with cowl steering!
    I looked a lot at how others channel their cars and could never find too much info, so i just mimicked the originals and had them folded up with the channel already done, its gonna be a pain in the ass to weld it all out but should look good in the end!
     
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  10. brainfreeze
    Joined: Jul 17, 2012
    Posts: 170

    brainfreeze
    Member

    So I haven't had any time to work on the coupe lately!
    Blew the head gasket in my falcon like 4 days before the asphalt demons invitational so I hammered that out to get it to the show (with some help from the club members)

    Then I went over to Japan for the mooneyes show! Oh man was that rad! So many cool cars and rad people! Definately make a habit of that!

    Anyway here's some pics of my falcon from the invitational!

    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]

    Hope to ge a bit done on the model A this week!


    Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
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  11. brainfreeze
    Joined: Jul 17, 2012
    Posts: 170

    brainfreeze
    Member

    anyone got some motivation they want to send this way haha
     
  12. brainfreeze
    Joined: Jul 17, 2012
    Posts: 170

    brainfreeze
    Member

    So I've got my front wishbones mounted and got my caster set, but I used stock length 42-48 bones with the step in the front, works well to clear my tie rod, but now because of the length and mounting the rear as high up under the frame as possible, the bottom cowl corners now hit them by about 1/2"

    My question is what would be an acceptable length to shorten them? Further forward on the wishbone would mean that they would be lower and I would have to reset the caster, which is fine, hopefully then would clear the bottoms of the cowl... if that makes sense.

    I was thinking of shortening them to the length of stock split 30 wishbones.

    Any thoughts?

    IMG_0020.JPG IMG_0020.JPG IMG_0020.JPG


    Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
    sloppy jalopies likes this.
  13. greaser
    Joined: Apr 30, 2006
    Posts: 857

    greaser
    Member

    Not sure how shortening the bones would make the attachment lower.
    When you finish loading the front of the chassis with filled radiator, headers, and all remaining components, the front end will be lower yet. Also, don't overlook the clearance needed as the suspension works. Perhaps you can extend the downward slope of the step in the bone slightly, or move attachment point outward.
     
  14. peter schmidt
    Joined: Aug 26, 2007
    Posts: 657

    peter schmidt
    Member
    from maryland

    Why not just make some pie cuts out of the top and bottom make a little bend down an inch or so then back up so it stays about the same length but clears the cowl better. I think short split whishbones look weird.
     
  15. Clearance the body.
     
  16. sloppy jalopies
    Joined: Jun 29, 2015
    Posts: 4,533

    sloppy jalopies
    Member

    mikie likes it...
    I used 1935-'36 tudor door patches, the front curls up about 3/4"... my frame swept up as it flowed forward from the cowl, had a gap under the door, trimmed the wooden block and front cowl mount,
    that let it drop just enough... didn't need them here but the '35 patch's leftovers work as the lower bead on the rear quarter... DSCN1061.JPG
     
    brainfreeze likes this.
  17. Poida
    Joined: Apr 11, 2012
    Posts: 8

    Poida
    Member
    from Queensland

    I have a 560 mm tall multi-row radiator that was hand made by a Brisbane radiator shop in the mid sixties. It was built for a channeled '32 roadster that I bought, and when I sold the project in the seventies, the radiator stayed here. It has never been used, and believe it or not, was designed for a Y-block, so I would expect the hose inlet\outlets to be acceptable. I will never use it, so make me an offer, if you are interested.
     
  18. brainfreeze
    Joined: Jul 17, 2012
    Posts: 170

    brainfreeze
    Member

    got a picture mate? keen to see it!
     

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