You would benefit in the long run by changing the title to match the chassis now as the engine is going to be changed and there goes you title ID number. I did exactly this on my ‘38 Buick after I bought it so I had the freedom to change the engine without screwing up the title/ID match. In Illinois, it was simple. I got a VIN verification form at the DMV and had the local Police Dept fill it out showing the respective numbers of chassis and engine and applied to the DMV for a ‘corrected title’. had to pay for the new title, but Voila’, problem solved....!
I just realized you are in New York.....as I recall, NY does not title older cars, but uses Registration numbers.....If it is feasible to register your Model A by the chassis number, not the engine number, that would be better/best for all purposes, licensing, and especially insurance policy. In addition, future change of ownership. Yes, I know, you are never going to sell it!............but just in case.......
Model A's are about the easiest frames to duplicate. Just get some 2x4 3/16 tubing and use your front x member cut right after the x member or remove and insert it between the rails.Taper the bottom side to match the frame height at the x member. The frame is flat on top so the only thing you have to do is cut through the top, bottom and outside of the frame rail and bend out to match the Model A frame. You can use the stock rear x member or fab something else to match rear suspension. Use the stock frame running board hangars and hood tie down brackets. You can drill and tap though the frame for fender mounting holes. The frame is tapered at the back but I didn't taper mine and had no problems. You could cut out old frame number and weld it to your new frame or take the old frame with you and have the inspector authorize a frame swap. http://www.wescottsauto.com/WebCatalog/Tech/FrameDiagram1928-31.pdf
In NY, with a clear registration, it's not likely anyone will ever inspect the car. However, you can use the serial on the frame and forms MV51 and MV51-B to get a registration to match and whatever other paperwork you have becomes irrelevant. You go in with those forms and the usual MV-80 green sheet, insurance card, etc plus pencil etch or photo of the frame number and a weight slip or other proof of weight and you get plates on the spot. Reg isn't transferable, they check the stolen and salvage database and if clear you get a transferable in a few weeks. Easy peasy, no notary needed, no inspections, nothing. Because NY issued a new reg every year until around the 1990s when it became biannual and lots of guys play fast and loose with them I would verify my frame number and my engine number are not already in use before doing anything else. There's a lot of cars out there registered or titled on old NY registrations that don't have that number anywhere on them. Even on title cars they play games, I once was checking out a nice Trans Am that must have been a '73 as the window sticker claimed it was a 1985 Buick.
1921 TT chassis that's been boxed, pinched and zeed. Sent from my moto g(6) play using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Maine was not a title state till '74... cars before that use the frame's production #s... find a bad frame with good #s... stamp them into your good frame then make sure no one can ever get those #s from the bad frame... cut through them with a torch ought to do it... #s aren't a big deal...…… till you are in an accident... if your #s don't match your insurance won't cover you... get it right...
Does anyone recommend how to secure the body to the frame after you box it? Welded nuts, rivnuts or drill a hole on the bottom of the frame under the bolt holes large enough for a socket? FYI...my boxing plates are solid and not dimpled. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
I bought some cheap boxing plates with holes on eBay so I don't have to weld nuts in (did it on the '36 and it was kind of pain), then I bought a Dagels crossmember (he's on eBay now). Super strong and ready for any engine.
Thanks 1oldtimer. That frame looks good. I have the Dagel crossmember and his solid boxing plates. Maybe I’ll just core holes in the boxing plates where needed. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Definitely box the original frame. Make templates and cut the metal yourself. It’s the cheapest, easiest and strongest way. Just try it and learn how. Don’t overthink it. People over build these things like they are gonna do 300mph on a race track, and never even come close. Honestly, if you aren’t drag racing, just box the front just a little past your firewall. Making A frames too stiff makes for an even stiffer ride.
And not making them stiffer then barely stock makes them twist and like to change lanes under hard acceleration. Build it for how your going to drive it and dial in the ride with suspension.
The Jalopy Journal
