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Bonneville styled 1932 tudor build

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Salt Flats Speed Shop, Oct 17, 2009.

  1. freebird101
    Joined: Feb 13, 2009
    Posts: 1,203

    freebird101
    Member

  2. Dirty2
    Joined: Jun 13, 2004
    Posts: 8,902

    Dirty2
    Member

  3. Salt Flats Speed Shop
    Joined: Sep 30, 2007
    Posts: 1,474

    Salt Flats Speed Shop
    Member
    from Utah

    So one thing that is important is to have good tools to give you acurate readings. I realized today that my degree finder wasnt working properly. Because of that it was setting my engine up to much. So I did exactly like alchemy sudjested and I moved the trans down an inch and the engine down 3 inches. Definatly looks tons better and my readings are good now. Thanks alchemy!


    So disregard these photos: It looks tons better now.




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    Last edited: Dec 1, 2009
  4. JeffreyJames
    Joined: Jun 13, 2007
    Posts: 16,628

    JeffreyJames
    Member
    from SUGAR CITY

    Wow, it's really coming along. It's funny how many people (including myself) have issues with the mechanical fans when swapping in what I thought was routine type engines. How did they manage back in the day with out an electrical fan???
     
  5. Your build is coming along just awesome. Although no where near your level of expertise, my build is very similar. I am in the process of completing my 32 in the avatar, built in the same style with open drive rear, 36 Ford rear radius rods, flattie and 5-speed. Just some thoughts/ideas here, not designed for a Bonneville run, but only what I did and what seemed logical with regard to the rear radius rods. I have fashioned a panhard bar into the mix, as well as using the cut off rear radius rod pieces for rear shock mounts - something I had seen in Rod and Custom awhile back.
     

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    Last edited: Dec 1, 2009
  6. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 20,522

    alchemy
    Member

    Your engine is way too high in the front. Just because the intake has a little bevel to it, doesn't mean you need to keep the carbs exactly level. Stromberg floats hinge from the side and shouldn't be affected badly by a degree or two of forward slant.

    I'd say lower the rear of the trans at least an inch, and the front of the engine at least three. Then see how the driveshaft angle fits. You may need to tip the rear axle forward or back a bit to get optimum driveline coordination.
     
  7. lorodz
    Joined: Jul 26, 2009
    Posts: 3,727

    lorodz
    Member

    now you dont have to worry about smashing the oil pan ,,
     
  8. Salt Flats Speed Shop
    Joined: Sep 30, 2007
    Posts: 1,474

    Salt Flats Speed Shop
    Member
    from Utah

    Here are the new pictures of the engine where it needs to be. The only thing I need to dial in is how close I can get it to the radiator and still have room for my electric fan and shroud.



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  9. Pewsplace
    Joined: Feb 10, 2007
    Posts: 2,795

    Pewsplace
    Member

    Maybe it's the picture, but the engine still looks way too high to me. The tailshaft points to the ground. I have looked at Varni's car a lot and the engine seems to be lower in the front. The center picture of your car is the best. I know you can figure the motor out. Is the motor that high due to the lowness of the frame or to meet the driveshaft angle? Keep the photos coming as this is going to be a sweet ride. A sedan lover.
     

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  10. Salt Flats Speed Shop
    Joined: Sep 30, 2007
    Posts: 1,474

    Salt Flats Speed Shop
    Member
    from Utah

    I think my frame is a little lower in the front than Varni's sedan.The front of my frame is only 6" off the ground. And I have a little more gap between my rear tire and the wheel well. Ive basically got a 6 1/2 degree rake on the car. So I have a 7 1/2 degree difference between the angle of the radiator, and the angle of the engine. Its just always going to look a little weird where your eye wants the two to be parallel to each other.

    The way I have it setup right now is exactly like this diagram shows. My rear end is above my transmission. So I have my transmission pointing down 1 degree, and my rear end is pointing up one degree, and there is a 2 degree difference in height between the transmission and the rear end.

    With it the way it is my carbs sit 2 degrees off of level. Im hoping they work like that or I might have to have my intake re-machined to get the carbs to sit level.
     

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    Last edited: Dec 3, 2009
  11. sr
    Joined: Feb 12, 2007
    Posts: 418

    sr
    Member
    from Monterey

    The SCTA rules for your class...whichever you choose may allow a little engine setback. You may check the rules, determine the class u want to run and see what you can do NOW, if you are going to actually make some runs.
     
  12. PRIMER STUDIO
    Joined: Nov 13, 2006
    Posts: 1,240

    PRIMER STUDIO
    Member
    from Bozeman,MT

    Just some food for thought, you might think about pointing the pinion down to lessen the angle on the tranny. I hope you don't mind my 2 bits on angles... I followed the diagram on a previous project where the rear pinion was higher than the tranny. The first time I drove the roadster, it was all bound up and shook like hell. It didnt work . I had to go back and point the pinion down and then everything smoothed out. Like I said just my 2 bits.
     
  13. Salt Flats Speed Shop
    Joined: Sep 30, 2007
    Posts: 1,474

    Salt Flats Speed Shop
    Member
    from Utah


    I appreciate everyone's input. There is nothing better than real life experience.

    What angles on the transmission and the rear end did you end up with at the end? And what angle was your drive line at?

    As far as I have read a u-joint can handle up to 5 degrees. Most importantly you want the transmission and rear end to have the exact same angles to each other, one up and one down. Cause the transmission spins in a perfect circle, but when it transfers to the first u-joint it turns into an elliptical circle. Then the other u-joint mirrors the same elliptical circle and transfers that into the perfect circle on the rear end.


    I cant drop the engine more in the front cause that puts my carbs way off of level. The engine is only 1 degree off of level to the ground. But it appears like that the transmission is pointing down to the ground because your eye wants the grill to be straight up and down. So basically its an optical allusion.
     
  14. hechtspeed
    Joined: Nov 24, 2009
    Posts: 101

    hechtspeed
    Member

    Love the tech talk here. These are the nitty gritty's that are so crazy crucial. Keep it up Chris, the engine looks great in there. I didn't forget about doing that Shop Story, just haven't gotten the pics off the camera.

    Me...want...SEDAN!!!
     
  15. the metalsurgeon
    Joined: Apr 19, 2009
    Posts: 1,237

    the metalsurgeon
    Member
    from Denver

    I will run the 32' pickup grill (just to be different).quote

    how about this for bonneville style different?
     

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  16. Salt Flats Speed Shop
    Joined: Sep 30, 2007
    Posts: 1,474

    Salt Flats Speed Shop
    Member
    from Utah


    Thats a pretty wild grill.

    The look i'm trying to go for on this sedan is: that besides the chop, and wheels the car appears un-altered.
     
  17. greg32
    Joined: Jun 21, 2007
    Posts: 2,235

    greg32
    Member
    from Indiana

    Cool project, keep the updates coming.
     
  18. Engine and tranny look good where they are at. Most Flatheads sit to low in these cars giving a wimpy "half full" look to the engine compartment. Plus, all the extra pan clearence you can get is worth it in the end.
     
  19. the metalsurgeon
    Joined: Apr 19, 2009
    Posts: 1,237

    the metalsurgeon
    Member
    from Denver

    just checked out your work ,very cool indeed
     
  20. Salt Flats Speed Shop
    Joined: Sep 30, 2007
    Posts: 1,474

    Salt Flats Speed Shop
    Member
    from Utah


    I agree with you on that the engine looks better higher. I like having my engine fill up more of the engine compartment.
     
  21. B Lawrence
    Joined: Nov 18, 2009
    Posts: 232

    B Lawrence
    Member
    from Ham.

    Awesome Work. It"s got the look!(nice stance)
     
  22. Salt Flats Speed Shop
    Joined: Sep 30, 2007
    Posts: 1,474

    Salt Flats Speed Shop
    Member
    from Utah

    Today was an eventful day!!! I got the frame off of the rack, and down on the ground. It looks so much better than I expected. I was so used to seeing it on the rack up in the air. Not its on the ground i'm even more excited.



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  23. brady1929
    Joined: Sep 30, 2006
    Posts: 9,274

    brady1929
    Member

    beautiful, and i like your motor mounts.
     
  24. Salt Flats Speed Shop
    Joined: Sep 30, 2007
    Posts: 1,474

    Salt Flats Speed Shop
    Member
    from Utah


    Thanks, Wood should act as a nice cushiion right? J.K. :)
     
  25. willysguy
    Joined: Oct 2, 2007
    Posts: 1,224

    willysguy
    Member
    from Canada

    Looks great on the ground Chris, can't wait to see your metal magic on this one!!!
     
  26. 3wLarry
    Joined: Mar 11, 2005
    Posts: 12,804

    3wLarry
    Member Emeritus
    from Owasso, Ok

    can't believe I'm saying this, but with that stance, it looks good unchopped...
     
    kidcampbell71 likes this.
  27. Salt Flats Speed Shop
    Joined: Sep 30, 2007
    Posts: 1,474

    Salt Flats Speed Shop
    Member
    from Utah

    its funny you said that. I was thinking the same thing when I look at the last picture looking from above.I think if it didn't have a hood it would work being unchopped. But with the full hood and hoodside it will look good chopped.
     
  28. brady1929
    Joined: Sep 30, 2006
    Posts: 9,274

    brady1929
    Member

    actually it would look GREAT chopped! low and sinister
     
  29. Salt Flats Speed Shop
    Joined: Sep 30, 2007
    Posts: 1,474

    Salt Flats Speed Shop
    Member
    from Utah

    That's exactly what I'm going for. I want this car to look as mean as possible with it still having some original styling.
     

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