The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Salt Flats Speed Shop, Oct 17, 2009.
Yeah, check out Langy's thread. That spinner is actually an acorn nut with "wings" welded to it.
Yeah its made from a stainless acorn nut with wings welded to it, mine has a bar welded up the tube and a stud but you could make the spinner a stud and have the nut up the tube. They are on my Willys thread here http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=572303&page=29
Aha you beat me to it !!!
I like that, its simple yet works.
Im thinking of something basically like yours, and like steve sellers. I like where his is more rounded and fits inside the pipe.
Steve should call 'em Seller's Propellors! Ha ha ha... I kill me!
And if he does I should get a commission on every one, yeah?
I worked on mounting the 39' pedal assembly.
You do nice work. How will you fill in the x member where the clutch pedal is installed?
ive seen this done now, 4 maybe 5 different ways. looks good chris! this is how i did mine (32 rails 41 merc x 39 swing set)
what MC are you planning on using?
For some more ideas, here's my pipe caps. A variation of the Sellers design with a twist.
Sellers Schmellers... Those caps/nuts rule!
I put that cross brace on top of the pedals to act as my support for the top. My Clutch pedal goes through the x-member almost an inch from the bottom. So doing something under and back up in my mind wouldn't really work as well as connecting it across the top like I have now.
I plan on getting a mustang drum to drum dual master cylinder.
I love those caps! Definitely the look i'm going for.
Ive been wanting to convert my 40' backing plates to bendix style brakes. Its been crazy finding all the right hardware but I just about have it figured out.
First thing I did was to section out the bottom piece so that the star adjuster will clear. I welded in the bottom pins so that it still looks like the shoes are bolted in.
The top pin is off of some 9" ford backing plates that I had kicking around. Ill be running 12" x 1 3/4" shoes so that I can still use the original drums.
It's far too late at night to read through this whole thread, but I'm going to have to in the morning! Great build!
Great work so far. I like where those brakes are going - looking forward to the rest of it!
Great job, your car looks great.
I started tonight on the brake lines. I'm running stainless steel lines and fittings. Got the lines run to the residual valves. Made a simple bracket that hold's the residual valves on to the frame. Then from there the rear line goes to my proportioning valve.
Looking good, I like stainless lines, fit & forget.
Ya that's what I thought. I don't want to have any worries with the brakes on this car.
I worked some more yesterday on the brake lines. The front lines are completely run. And the first line towards the back is run as well. I only have the line across the rear cross-member to finish and the brake lines will be finished. Then once I finish up the front bendix conversion I can measure up and get the flexible lines made.
Looks a nice clean job, not sure about those line clamps though
I got everything unbolted out of the frame, and sprayed primer on a bunch of the suspension pieces.
This thread makes me wanna build somethin! Nice work, thanks for the details and pix!
Very nice work going on here - one thing that crossed my mind, though, if that is a Mustang drum/drum master cylinder, it should have residual pressure valves already fitted as standard. You might not need the extra ones plumbed to the frame.
Didn`t you use the same setup when you built Old Rusty?
I always use the Mustang MC with the valves...
What a Killer Build!! Keep us posted on the progress!!
I LOVE this build. Beautiful done. I really like the way your aged the paint.
None the less it is still a great car!
Looking great Chris, hopefully I'll make it out there next year!
Is it just me or does that master mount resemble a superman logo .
seriously I've been watching this thread since the start and it IS super......
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