After setting for about 2 years I finally done some work to the Tupperware 32 roadster I have been building by building a bomber seat. It has a 1" steel frame covered with aluminum. It slides forward and back 3" and adjusts up and down 1". It is also hinged at the front to tilt up to use the area behind the seat. It is held down with a couple of small Bear Claw type latches. seat belt slots A pull cable works bell cranks that pulls release rods to the latches; This is what it is going in;
They are solid rivets. I see what you are saying, the reflection makes the rivets look like round head screws. Thanks knotheads, Rob Paul. It has been fun to make, but I spent way too much time on it. I would do it again though. Now I don't know to do about the finish. Any ideas?
Nice work! Question! I see a lot of very intricately cut sheet metal parts in your seat. What's your method for cutting such small parts? Are you doing this with a band saw? Jig saw? Shears? Having the pieces laser cut or water jet? What's the scoop!
I tried doing a piece where I drilled everything up and primed and painted it, then went back and cleaned the holes out and shot the rivets. It turned out sweet looking with the bare rivets. I'm sure you aren't interested in drilling everything out to do that though lol that would suck....was just a thought. I'm not sure if alodine is available to the public, but you could use that. It would burn in a nice tan tint to the metal and keep it protected.
Alodine is available at Aircraft Spruce. About $40 for a gallon, or it was last I bought some. The only issue with the Alodine is that it has a tendency to scratch somewhat easy, unlike hard anodizing, or a coating of that nature.
I have never heard of "Alodine". How far will a gallon go? Is it safe for home use? Is it a kind of acid or something like gun blueing? The seat will have a distressed leather cushion on the bottom.
The wheels are American Salt Flats. 15X8 rear, 15X4 front with knock-offs from the Rod Parts Warehouse. I don't think the fronts have enough back spacing, too much of the brakes show and the imaginary line through the king pin misses the center of the tire by about 2" or more. If I would have bought 6" wide wheels with as much back spacing as possible it would have moved the center of the tire in. Someone had a post on here last week where he machined new aluminum hubs to move the wheels in because he had the same problem I have, so I will probably do the same. I liked his solution.
I noticed that they don't make them in 15x5. I wonder how the 15x4 would work with my front disc brakes? Are they actually 4" wide ? seems pretty narrow, I have 155 -80 /15s mounted on WV 15x5 smoothies now. Would my tires fit the 4" wheel ?
"Alodine" is that flat light green paint that you see everywhere on aluminum aircraft parts. Beautiful work on that seat, nothing like the look of real buck rivets. I've done a few of those before (aircraft assembly).
That bomber seat looks killer and i dig the fact that you made it adjustable seems most of the bombers are locked to the ground
Alodine basically dries clear, depending on the make-up of the aluminum. If a part has a lot of zinc in it (like carburetor bodies) it seems to change colors to a greenish-orangyish-goldish color. Aluminum, like 6061 or others, leave only a sheen to the part. There are also two common types used for the home building. Both leave sort of a green finish, but it's not very evident. The flat light green paint you are talking about, I believe is simply just light green paint and probably of the 2-part, single stage, polyurethane variety. Here is the Alodine available at Aircraft Spruce. Looks like prices went up a bit. 1001 (orange in color) http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cspages/alodine1001.php 1201 (more green in color) http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cspages/alodine1201.php This page shows the products and the metal prep used with it. It does take better if you use the prep. http://www.aircraftspruce.com/menus/cs/metalprepsupplies.html It will work well for smaller parts, since you have the ability to simply dip and rinse. But with a whole bench, it's going to be a huge pain! If you want that kind of finish for corrosion protection I would consider other avenues. Clear powder coating, maybe. If you want the Alodine or even an Anodize finish, I would find an electro-plater in your area. I believe the process the industry uses for Alodine application (or it's similar) is called "Chemfilm".
Yes, I agree that alodine should be "dip" applied, not brushed on. The part needs to soak in it evenly to prevent streaks. Unless streaky is the look you'd want.
Steve, Great job on the seat!! Also like the top irons, I assume you fabricated. Where are you getting all the energy? Sending you a PM. Bob
Most places do use a dip tank but one place I worked we always sprayed it on and rinsed it off. It did fine. At my current work we either use the dip tank or a specific pen type applicator. FWIW I think the clear powdercoat is the best option so far. Nice nice car man.
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