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Bomber seat for the roadster

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by cabriolethiboy, Apr 18, 2011.

  1. cabriolethiboy
    Joined: Jun 16, 2002
    Posts: 891

    cabriolethiboy
    Member

    After setting for about 2 years I finally done some work to the Tupperware 32 roadster I have been building by building a bomber seat. It has a 1" steel frame covered with aluminum. It slides forward and back 3" and adjusts up and down 1". It is also hinged at the front to tilt up to use the area behind the seat. It is held down with a couple of small Bear Claw type latches.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    seat belt slots
    [​IMG]

    A pull cable works bell cranks that pulls release rods to the latches;
    [​IMG]

    This is what it is going in;
    [​IMG]
     
  2. knotheads
    Joined: Jan 4, 2007
    Posts: 499

    knotheads
    Member

    nice work on that seat
     
  3. Rob Paul
    Joined: Nov 11, 2005
    Posts: 1,272

    Rob Paul
    Member

    very cool. Are those all actual fastners, or solid rivits? I cant tell from the pics....

    Rob
     
  4. WOW, nice work. You could sell those things!:)
     

  5. cabriolethiboy
    Joined: Jun 16, 2002
    Posts: 891

    cabriolethiboy
    Member

    They are solid rivets. I see what you are saying, the reflection makes the rivets look like round head screws.
    Thanks knotheads, Rob Paul. It has been fun to make, but I spent way too much time on it. I would do it again though. Now I don't know to do about the finish. Any ideas?
     
  6. Rob Paul
    Joined: Nov 11, 2005
    Posts: 1,272

    Rob Paul
    Member

    What did you use to set the rivits with? As far as finish goes....what color is the car going to be?
     
  7. general gow
    Joined: Feb 5, 2003
    Posts: 6,407

    general gow
    MODERATOR
    Staff Member

    tupperware, whatever. that's gonna be a pretty rad car when it's done. i like the work on the seat.
     
  8. scootermcrad
    Joined: Sep 20, 2005
    Posts: 12,382

    scootermcrad
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Nice work!

    Question! I see a lot of very intricately cut sheet metal parts in your seat. What's your method for cutting such small parts? Are you doing this with a band saw? Jig saw? Shears? Having the pieces laser cut or water jet? What's the scoop!
     
  9. Mindover
    Joined: Jan 18, 2009
    Posts: 1,644

    Mindover
    Member
    from England

    Nice job. All that riveting is a lot of work, I know I have done plenty!

    David
     
  10. Mack81
    Joined: Nov 11, 2007
    Posts: 47

    Mack81
    Member
    from Tennessee

    Air you an aircraft mechanic? Nice work man.
     
  11. Mack81
    Joined: Nov 11, 2007
    Posts: 47

    Mack81
    Member
    from Tennessee

    I tried doing a piece where I drilled everything up and primed and painted it, then went back and cleaned the holes out and shot the rivets. It turned out sweet looking with the bare rivets. I'm sure you aren't interested in drilling everything out to do that though lol that would suck....was just a thought.
    I'm not sure if alodine is available to the public, but you could use that. It would burn in a nice tan tint to the metal and keep it protected.
     
  12. scootermcrad
    Joined: Sep 20, 2005
    Posts: 12,382

    scootermcrad
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Alodine is available at Aircraft Spruce. About $40 for a gallon, or it was last I bought some. The only issue with the Alodine is that it has a tendency to scratch somewhat easy, unlike hard anodizing, or a coating of that nature.
     
  13. Mack81
    Joined: Nov 11, 2007
    Posts: 47

    Mack81
    Member
    from Tennessee

    Well I was thinking it wouldn't be an issue with the seat cushions in there. I agree though
     
    Last edited: Apr 18, 2011
  14. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 11,459

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta


    What brand and size are those wheels ?
     
  15. cabriolethiboy
    Joined: Jun 16, 2002
    Posts: 891

    cabriolethiboy
    Member

    Hand shears, electric nibbler, 36" stomp shear, bandsaw, can't think of anything else.
     
  16. cabriolethiboy
    Joined: Jun 16, 2002
    Posts: 891

    cabriolethiboy
    Member

    I have never heard of "Alodine". How far will a gallon go? Is it safe for home use? Is it a kind of acid or something like gun blueing?
    The seat will have a distressed leather cushion on the bottom.
     
  17. cabriolethiboy
    Joined: Jun 16, 2002
    Posts: 891

    cabriolethiboy
    Member

    3X rivet gun and an old body dolly. The car is going to Viper red with off white scallops.
     
  18. cabriolethiboy
    Joined: Jun 16, 2002
    Posts: 891

    cabriolethiboy
    Member

    The wheels are American Salt Flats. 15X8 rear, 15X4 front with knock-offs from the Rod Parts Warehouse. I don't think the fronts have enough back spacing, too much of the brakes show and the imaginary line through the king pin misses the center of the tire by about 2" or more. If I would have bought 6" wide wheels with as much back spacing as possible it would have moved the center of the tire in.
    Someone had a post on here last week where he machined new aluminum hubs to move the wheels in because he had the same problem I have, so I will probably do the same. I liked his solution.
    [​IMG]
     
  19. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 11,459

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    I noticed that they don't make them in 15x5. I wonder how the 15x4 would work with my front disc brakes?

    Are they actually 4" wide ? seems pretty narrow, I have 155 -80 /15s mounted on WV 15x5 smoothies now.
    Would my tires fit the 4" wheel ?
     
  20. das858
    Joined: Jul 28, 2010
    Posts: 1,014

    das858
    Member

    That's one of the nicest bomber style seats I've ever seen, would almost be a shame to paint it.
     
  21. "Alodine" is that flat light green paint that you see everywhere on aluminum aircraft parts. Beautiful work on that seat, nothing like the look of real buck rivets. I've done a few of those before (aircraft assembly).:D
     
  22. rusty bill
    Joined: Oct 7, 2010
    Posts: 242

    rusty bill
    Member

  23. GEISTERFAHRER
    Joined: Apr 23, 2010
    Posts: 85

    GEISTERFAHRER
    Member

    That bomber seat looks killer and i dig the fact that you made it adjustable seems most of the bombers are locked to the ground
     
  24. scootermcrad
    Joined: Sep 20, 2005
    Posts: 12,382

    scootermcrad
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Alodine basically dries clear, depending on the make-up of the aluminum. If a part has a lot of zinc in it (like carburetor bodies) it seems to change colors to a greenish-orangyish-goldish color. Aluminum, like 6061 or others, leave only a sheen to the part. There are also two common types used for the home building. Both leave sort of a green finish, but it's not very evident.

    The flat light green paint you are talking about, I believe is simply just light green paint and probably of the 2-part, single stage, polyurethane variety.

    Here is the Alodine available at Aircraft Spruce. Looks like prices went up a bit.

    1001 (orange in color)
    http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cspages/alodine1001.php

    1201 (more green in color)
    http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cspages/alodine1201.php

    This page shows the products and the metal prep used with it. It does take better if you use the prep.
    http://www.aircraftspruce.com/menus/cs/metalprepsupplies.html

    It will work well for smaller parts, since you have the ability to simply dip and rinse. But with a whole bench, it's going to be a huge pain! If you want that kind of finish for corrosion protection I would consider other avenues. Clear powder coating, maybe. If you want the Alodine or even an Anodize finish, I would find an electro-plater in your area. I believe the process the industry uses for Alodine application (or it's similar) is called "Chemfilm".
     
  25. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 20,406

    alchemy
    Member

    Yes, I agree that alodine should be "dip" applied, not brushed on. The part needs to soak in it evenly to prevent streaks. Unless streaky is the look you'd want.
     
  26. Old Rod
    Joined: Dec 5, 2004
    Posts: 628

    Old Rod
    Member
    from Brazil, IN

    Steve, Great job on the seat!! Also like the top irons, I assume you
    fabricated. Where are you getting all the energy? Sending you a PM.
    Bob
     
  27. Mack81
    Joined: Nov 11, 2007
    Posts: 47

    Mack81
    Member
    from Tennessee

    Most places do use a dip tank but one place I worked we always sprayed it on and rinsed it off. It did fine. At my current work we either use the dip tank or a specific pen type applicator. FWIW I think the clear powdercoat is the best option so far. Nice nice car man.
     

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