Technical Bodywork pros (Body filler)

Personally I don't care for 8 gallons of filler primer on a car. The owner can say there's no mud but,,,

Besides, the cheapest filler primer is at least twice what most expensive filler costs.

I also don't like mud on top of filler primer. It makes sanding the panel straight very difficult. They you need double more filler primer again.

How much is filler primer Again?
What's the recommended max build with filler primer again?

I can't speak to its longevity or long term performance yet- but the "contoure" poly primer from Eastwood Is really nice stuff.

 

After bumpin' out a body panel, I usually use "All Metal" as my base filler. The stuff bonds well to metal and is a good foundation as it's tough. Doesn't shrink like other fillers. Yes, initially a bitch to sand, but once you start cutting it in, sands and feathers well.
Always been happy with this product.

 

8 gallons? what are you painting, a school bus?

 

LOL. I did a while back.... or were you referring to the self etch primer warning? And yeah, an all metal filler over a welded area, a very light coat, is excellent before a coat of epoxy. That stuff is apparently water proof and takes care of any teeny tiny ( technical term) holes.

 

I have a buddy that runs a body shop and he's the third generation bodyman it was his Grandfathers in the 20's. He never uses water when sanding. I don't know what generation the no wet sanding started but I've known this guy for 50 years and I've never seen water used.


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My T has a very small body. right now it's being blasted and when it comes back I will re-examine my metalwork.
I've done my best with rust replacement and used the shrinking disc etc. to get it the best that my abilities and patience allow

Once I epoxy prime it then a skim of filler will bring it to a finish stage.
When done any filler left will be very thin and that's ok with me.

Thanks for the opinions and advice, keep it coming it's all good.

 

That's a great idea I just wish I could get her to bake a cake for me hahahahahaha hotrod harry


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I like the metal bondo spreaders.

 

I'll clarify for those who I respect for their knowledge. The cost of decent polyester primer is very close to the cost of a gallon of Rage. I would not recommend excess build of ANY product regardless. 2K primers, poly, epoxy, et al. Too much build and the expansion rate begins to differ with that of the metal. Where would that leave us with a dark color in a midwest 95 degree day a couple times? Suppose we didn't cross that threshold, how deep is that accidental chip? How much angst will you suffer making the repair? Or, worse than anything, "Hey, is this a 'glass body?" because the fuckin edges are so thick it looks like one. I for one would wish to accidently step on the fucker's toe! Ok, that's extreme, I get it. But do y'all get it? Nothing makes a finisher more proud than to see his work standing tall decades after it was done. 1-time to 1000-time finishers, it's like seeing your kid grow up to be a heavyweight champ, or a respected medical professional, or top tier engineer (notice I didn't Senator or President?). That happens with normal care and a bare minimum of mil thickness, at least 1 of which has to happen at the metal, the literal "ground zero" of any finish work. Still, things being what they are like time, talent, profit margin and more, fills are the necessary evil. They're a finishing aid and nothing more. I wouldn't try to convince anyone to not have it on hand, that would make me a hypocrite. 2-3 coats of poly primer will fill more than it may seem, but I've noticed that it actually swells a bit once cured. Gets thicker than you might instinctively feel it is based on the relative process. Still, the ability to block a consistent level of hardness, AND it's relationship to "mud" to begin with, that makes minor glazes and light surface aid so much easier. 1/8th of poly prime is too much, and frankly near imposible to pull off. If it's that bad you're not ready. I'll raise a right hand to this, I've used poly primer on cars valued well into 6 figures. 5, 7, even 20+ years later they look like last week. Easy? No fuggin way, you'll work for it, but damn it's worth working for. It's sheet metal, not drywall. Just sayin...

 

Not me lol !
I rubbed my hand down someone's filler primed rear quarters and said it needs more mud. Oh oh oh no fillers this car, I'll get that with a few more rounds of primer, it will block right out.

Ohhhh Kayyyy then.

 

^^^^^ yeah, metal bondo spreaders. they last forever and always have a clean edge.

 

If possible get ahold of the body filler. All of you will be glad you did!


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This is the same as Ultra which is what Larry has. The Edge label is not available in Canada.

 

I'll try your fave, and you try mine.
Then we can have a review


And you try my fave -

 

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Larry, FWIW here's another opinion on the whole prime first or filler first question... I'm not a pro body guy but I've painted some cars that have turned out pretty dang good. Note I asked about 20 different guys about the prime or filler first thing and got 20 different answers...

I epoxy the whole car first myself after blasting. If I've got an area that requires more than just a super thin coat of filler, I sand off the epoxy with 40 grit, leaving a coarse finish for the filler to grip. Bodywork & re apply epoxy to the area as some of the surrounding primer is usually sanded off when blocking the filler.

If the filler is really thin, say under 1/32", then I just fill over the epoxy, however I still scuff the surface of the epoxy with a 60 or 80 grit first.

My last paint job rather than a skim coat of filler I used one of those super high build primers (Evercoat slick sand) - really it's more like sprayable filler than primer. But rather than blow it on super thick I put on a thinner coat, block sanded, then repeated. I found it much easier than trying to skim coat the whole car with filler. That said, it's a 78 Trans Am - your hot rod is a lot smaller & may be easier to skim with filler.....But doing it my way I wound up with a nice straight car that does not look too "thick" if you know what I mean.

 

^ ^ ^ ^
Just like this. You can put on what you need in 1 "serving" with no ill effects. Or in my case, I might have 2 on the whole car but have up to 4 coats in spots I don't like. As you level it down it should be really thin in the good spots, almost to bare metal. You know you have it knocked at that point.

 

Back from the blaster, now to get that paint booth ready

 

I want a short school bus , old one , mid 60's back , 8 gallons worth .

 

After the epoxy has been on a few days, I still scuff it before applying filler.


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