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Technical body to frame holes off

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by SDS, Sep 27, 2021.

  1. SDS
    Joined: Apr 28, 2011
    Posts: 272

    SDS
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I'm trying to upload photos to imgur, so I can add to this post, but it's taking forever.

    I installed the firewall in my Brookville 32 roadster body yesterday and tried to get the body-to-frame mounting holes lined up. It wasn't bad to get the front 2 (where the bolts go through the bronze feet next to the firewall). Had to shift a few things around to try to get the rear-most bolts in, so I used 2 drift punches and aligned them that way (left the punches in for now)
    Net-net, it looks like the 4 outer-most corners are good to go. The problem is that the rest of them are off by at least a half a hole diameter - some in different directions. The holes closest to where the removable floor meets the welded I'm floor-pan is the most off - I can barely see the edge of the hole.
    I had a Deuce Customs fiberglass body on this frame (built by Kiwi connection in 2004) and everything lined up with minimal file adjustment of holes.

    1. Is it normal it OK for these holes to be that off?
    2. Was I right to get the 4 outer-most corners in first? Am I missing some key step here?
    3. Is simply filing the holes larger or oblong is how to remedy this situation?

    Any other advice on properly doing this body to frame alignment and bolt-down procedure is well appreciated...want to get it bolted down before I install the feet on the firewall and build a rear firewall between the passenger compartment and trunk.

    Thanks,
    Scott
     
    Last edited: Sep 27, 2021
  2. choptop40
    Joined: Dec 23, 2009
    Posts: 4,010

    choptop40
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    i would bolt down what you can, fit the rest , gaps etc...A pillar and B pillar are the most important as these two points will determine your door alignment... go from there...enlongating the holes is ok...when its all tightend youll be good to go...Good luck..
     
    loudbang likes this.
  3. anthony myrick
    Joined: Sep 4, 2009
    Posts: 8,633

    anthony myrick
    Member

    Get a diagram and verify measurements.
    The only chassis I’ve seen that were close were Ford ones. Boxed aftermarket ones usually have width issues.
    Or just grab a die grinder.
     
    Hnstray likes this.
  4. Anderson
    Joined: Jan 27, 2003
    Posts: 6,553

    Anderson
    Member

    Done two Brookville roadsters on original frames, and a sedan body on a P&J chassis and had to hog out a bunch of the mounting holes on all of them. Seems like a standard thing I guess.
     
    Tman, loudbang and anthony myrick like this.

  5. RJP
    Joined: Oct 5, 2005
    Posts: 2,000

    RJP
    Member
    from PNW

    Get out your uni/step drill set and have at it. It's not rocket surgery....
     
  6. Johnny Gee
    Joined: Dec 3, 2009
    Posts: 9,448

    Johnny Gee
    Member
    from Downey, Ca

    I had made a template of hole location on the frame then place template to cab (32 pick up / aftermarket frame) to get things under control and not go hog wild on boring holes. Actually, I welded holes closed before drilling new holes.
     
    joel likes this.
  7. anthony myrick
    Joined: Sep 4, 2009
    Posts: 8,633

    anthony myrick
    Member

    Had one that we welded up and re drilled.
    It was boxed, located the new hole locations and welded in nuts
     
    -Brent- likes this.
  8. 19Eddy30
    Joined: Mar 27, 2011
    Posts: 1,327

    19Eddy30
    Member
    from VA

    First Question are you going to Run full fender Roadster?
    If so You will need to fit body to frame with correct bolt locations & measurements & mock up.
    I recommend even for a High Boy
    I have not seen to may later after market frames with bolt in correct location.
    All the holes , & Cowl mount/ adjustment (Bronze/ Cast) are not @ correct angle , holes are not correct like a Original frame.
    Last frame I did all holes where off as much as 1-1/2 inches . Made slugs tig weld Re drilled . From bumper mount to bumper mount .
     
  9. mgtstumpy
    Joined: Jul 20, 2006
    Posts: 8,921

    mgtstumpy
    Member

    Check body holes against frame chart. A trammel bar makes life easier 32-chassis.jpg
     
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  10. Flathead Dave
    Joined: Mar 21, 2014
    Posts: 3,457

    Flathead Dave
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from So. Cal.

    Line it up as best as you can, for and with, what ever else you plan to add to the body or frame.
    It's ok to hawg out the holes or drill more holes if you need to.
    Most often they do not line up.
    For instance, On my 27 Coupe body to a 28 frame, I had to drill holes to mount the body and ignored the holes for a 28-30 body.
    You'll be fine.
     
  11. ............If your frame was "pinched" at the firewall like many aftermarket ones are you will always encounter difficulty aligning the holes of a "stock' firewall. Just do as everyone has suggested and make the appropriate adjustments. You will be fine.
     
  12. panhead_pete
    Joined: Feb 22, 2006
    Posts: 2,796

    panhead_pete
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    You can directly upload pics to your posts, no need for 3rd party servers etc,
     
  13. SDS
    Joined: Apr 28, 2011
    Posts: 272

    SDS
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    My frame is a pinched hi-boy, so I was surprised to see that the distance from the front two mounting holes which bolts go through the bronze feet are the correct distance from left to right.
    None of the holes are as far off as some of you guys are describing... At least I can see all of the holes for the existing holes, they're just not lined up.
    So, the holes relating to the a pillar and B pillar on a roadster would be the ones right in front of the door and right behind the door? Those are the most important to have in the holes in the frame first? If I did that, the bronze feet holes in the front would be impossible to get to a line and most of the other holes would be further off than they already are - it would also be impossible to get the rear most corners in.
     
  14. SDS
    Joined: Apr 28, 2011
    Posts: 272

    SDS
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Thanks for that advice -I kept clicking the photo button in the post box and it kept asking me for a URL.
    Here are some photos of my holes on the driver's side -they're pretty much exactly the same misalignment on the passenger side. As mentioned, the bolts are in the bronze feet at the front corners of the cow and there's a drift punch aligning each of the rearmost corner holes in the trunk.
     

    Attached Files:

  15. clem
    Joined: Dec 20, 2006
    Posts: 3,457

    clem
    Member

    for reproduction stuff, that sounds pretty good.

    original cars had their firewall bolted down first, and then the body added.

    watch your door alignment as you tighten down your body bolts.

    pictures ? ? ? (edit, obviously typing at the same time)

    I would weld up the incorrect holes (either on body or chassis) and drill new ones.
    Others may just use bigger washers either side……:).
     
    Last edited: Sep 28, 2021
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  16. SDS
    Joined: Apr 28, 2011
    Posts: 272

    SDS
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    With a Brookville body, you have to install the firewall separately... They say to bolt the body down to the frame (with no spacers or pads), insert and align the firewall with a cow seal on it, put the two bolts in the front brass feet, then install the triangular steel feet that go up to the firewall - you have to align and weld them in once you have everything nice and happy with the door gaps and whatnot. Once that is done, it would go together in the same way as an original body - the body goes over the firewall which is installed to the frame first.
     
  17. 37gas
    Joined: May 25, 2013
    Posts: 95

    37gas
    Member

    I would start at the radiator and grill shell first, and bring the body to that using your hood as a guide.
     
    Cosmo49 likes this.
  18. SDS
    Joined: Apr 28, 2011
    Posts: 272

    SDS
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Guess I need to buy that now versus later o_O
     
  19. Any hot rod builder worth their salt has a collection of rat tail files. Problem solved, just sayin'.
     
  20. Johnny Gee
    Joined: Dec 3, 2009
    Posts: 9,448

    Johnny Gee
    Member
    from Downey, Ca

    After looking at Op's picture it'll look like hell from an interior stand point due to recess pocket's for bolt head. Tough call, doe's one close up (weld) the holes on the chassis and start over rather than hog out the floor?
     
    Hnstray likes this.
  21. Budget36
    Joined: Nov 29, 2014
    Posts: 7,215

    Budget36
    Member

    Before welding up and trying to redrill it, I’d suggest get a piece of scrap and make a hole. Weld it up and try to drill 1/2 of it out with a hand drill.
    It’s not as easy as it seems to “move” a hole 1/2 way over like that.
     
  22. 19Eddy30
    Joined: Mar 27, 2011
    Posts: 1,327

    19Eddy30
    Member
    from VA

    Op , this is a 32 body on 32 frame correct ?
    Because you state Pinched Frame !
    I have only Know when others say pinched frame when ""A body "" on 32 frame .

    32 body on 32 frame , there is no spacer used !!
    ""Only @ rear body mount"" after all aliment are set , then take a measurement between sub rail and frame gap make a spacer so when you tighten
    ( One on each side ) its solid & to keep alignment.
    The cowl leg & rear body mount set / adjust door gaps, & some times door hinge need tweaking on Roadster
    Frame looks boxed , if me ( more work ) I would cut a bigger round or square hole , (window) replace with a 1/4 - 3/8s thick plate weld flush across top & tap, & also looks to have a tubular K member, You will have to notch @ front sub rail cross brace from left to right to clear K Member .
    After market fire wall feet / legs are no made correct to Originals & obviously the flat firewall .
    There are several Drawings floating around on the web that are not correct to the ""Factory Ford ""blueprint drawing, I have a Original FoMoCo one that I had in large to poster size & laminated.
    If You are going to use hood & stock appearing gas tank , measurements are critical .( radator shell ,firewall & fuel tank recommend to start with mock up) before drilling new holes.
    A 32 body is more of a Challenge to line up then A body's & 33/34 especially if using full fenders
     
  23. HELL NO! just weld it to the frame :D
     
  24. Johnny Gee
    Joined: Dec 3, 2009
    Posts: 9,448

    Johnny Gee
    Member
    from Downey, Ca

    Good enough for a 57 Chevy.
    [​IMG]
     
    dan31 likes this.
  25. 19Eddy30
    Joined: Mar 27, 2011
    Posts: 1,327

    19Eddy30
    Member
    from VA

    I just talk with a guy I know , has built serval 32 B V & U-P bods , roaster & 3 w, in last few years , all the body's are having problem's with holes not correct line Up & having to shim subrails to get doors correct !!
    Originally (32) The only adjustment was cowl leg and rear body mount then add a shim/ block.
    So there is a issue with Jig or QC does not care,
    My self Have not had this problem with Original body or frame (straight ) unless one or other was aftermarket most where frame (after market)
     
    Last edited: Sep 28, 2021
    Johnny Gee likes this.
  26. The37Kid
    Joined: Apr 30, 2004
    Posts: 28,404

    The37Kid
    Member

    Holes in a reproduction body & frame. I wouldn't trust either. Set the body on the frame and gap everything side to side, front to back, then drill the holes.

    Bob
     
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  27. A Boner
    Joined: Dec 25, 2004
    Posts: 6,219

    A Boner
    Member

    Set the body on the frame. Then move the body around (average it out) so that it is positioned so that the least amount of egging out has to be done to ALL of the body holes. Remember it is a Ford and not a Duesenberg!
     
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  28. SDS
    Joined: Apr 28, 2011
    Posts: 272

    SDS
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Thanks...
    1. 32 body, 32 frame - yes, the frame is pinched in front (no gap between grill shell and frame). the front 2 holes maintain the 30 3/4"spacing L to R. This is a Squeak Bell original (Kiwi Connection) chassis - he was always very keen to traditional tricks and keeping measurements correct on critical items - on a super nice frame jig
    2. 10-4 on no spacers
    3. not trying to be correct and fake I have an OG body, the Brookville feet are going to have to do - they weld to the firewall after you have everything aligned
    4. the body is just sitting on the chassis right now (no gaps between boy and frame at mounting holes) and nothing underneath seems to be crashing into the tubular X-member, but I'll have a look
    5. stock repro Tanks Inc. gas tank works fine with this setup
    6. As I had to when I had the Deuce Customs body on this chassis, the hood sides will have to be custom made (stock ones have a 1"gap all the way across the bottom on this chassis)
     

    Attached Files:

  29. choptop40
    Joined: Dec 23, 2009
    Posts: 4,010

    choptop40
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Lots of good info here ..
     
    lothiandon1940 likes this.
  30. SDS
    Joined: Apr 28, 2011
    Posts: 272

    SDS
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    'Here", as in this thread or the HAMB, ?
    Confused
     

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