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Body Mounts

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by scott 351 wins, Sep 28, 2011.

  1. scott 351 wins
    Joined: Dec 22, 2009
    Posts: 434

    scott 351 wins
    Member

    I am at the point where i am going to be laying out my frame work for my project but first i would like to put on the body mounts that attach to the frame. i built the frame myself at work out of 2x4 rectangle tubing 1/4 thick.
    I was wanting to use the same material for my mounts as i have about 6' of it left over. I am wanting to put the mounts on the frame with the 2 inches of steel as the mounting surface for the body and the 4 inches welded to the frame as the gussets portion of the mount. my question is the 2 inch enough for a mounting surface for the body? the body is a 46 ford truck cab.
    Can you guys that read this, post pics of your body mounts so i can get an idea of what i can build. thanks.
     
  2. aaggie
    Joined: Nov 21, 2009
    Posts: 2,531

    aaggie
    Member

    Not sure but common sense would be that the mounting surface should be at least as large as the rubber body mount cushion. Most use a round bisquit about 3" in diameter.
     
  3. scott 351 wins
    Joined: Dec 22, 2009
    Posts: 434

    scott 351 wins
    Member

    I was thinking cutting the tubing about 3 & 1/2 inches long and cutting a 45* from one corner to the other.
     

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  4. scott 351 wins
    Joined: Dec 22, 2009
    Posts: 434

    scott 351 wins
    Member

    i wasnt really planning on using a rubber cushion for the mounts, but i am not set on that yet.
     

  5. Tin Can
    Joined: Nov 18, 2005
    Posts: 2,096

    Tin Can
    Member

    I think 2" would be good. My factory mounts on my 53 are only that wide. A rubber mudflap cut up would work well for the mounts. If you figure out how many mounts you are putting in I may have enough rubber pad mounts leftover from my project if they would work for you
     
  6. jcs64
    Joined: Apr 25, 2005
    Posts: 528

    jcs64
    Member

    2" hole and an old tire.
    Just cut holes in the side wall and use the 2" knockouts.

    jeff
     
  7. scott 351 wins
    Joined: Dec 22, 2009
    Posts: 434

    scott 351 wins
    Member

    ok i'll use the tubing then. 3 1/2 is enough for the front of the cab but i think the rear mounts will need to be a bit longer. 4 mounts for the cab and 4 mounts for the bed. 8 mounts total. thanks Dan & Jeff.
     
  8. 48 Chubby
    Joined: Apr 29, 2008
    Posts: 1,014

    48 Chubby
    Member Emeritus

    I would not get too set on steel to steel body mounts unless you want a bunch of fractured sheet metal body parts. Don't take much rubber, but steel to steel is asking for trouble.
     
  9. scott 351 wins
    Joined: Dec 22, 2009
    Posts: 434

    scott 351 wins
    Member

    ok i wasnt aware of that. ive heard that race cars dont use rubber mounts due to body roll. i'll use some sort of rubber to dampen the vibrations then, thanks.
     
  10. Fitty Toomuch
    Joined: Jun 29, 2010
    Posts: 281

    Fitty Toomuch
    Member
    from WVa

  11. Don's Hot Rods
    Joined: Oct 7, 2005
    Posts: 8,319

    Don's Hot Rods
    Member
    from florida

    We use round rubber doughnuts that are sold at most 4 x 4 shops as Jeep body mount insulators. They come in various thicknesses, like 1/2 and 3/4 inch, and are about 2 inches in diameter (maybe 1.5) and have about a 3/8 inch hole in the center for the mounting bolt. They are hard rubber and only cost a buck or two each.

    Don

    I just looked at Fitty's picture, same thing except the ones we get have no metal parts with them, just poly or hard rubber.
     

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