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Hot Rods Body mounts 27T roadster

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by dubie, Jan 26, 2016.

  1. dubie
    Joined: Aug 17, 2004
    Posts: 698

    dubie
    Member

    What is everyone using between the body and frame. I'm mounting a 27T roadster on a 30 A frame and was thinking of using some 1/2" conveyor belt as a cushion. Or should i keep it rigid with wood or welting? Not sure what to expect for movement in the body when we get this thing running and driving
     
  2. patmanta
    Joined: May 10, 2011
    Posts: 3,599

    patmanta
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Woburn, MA
    1. MASSACHUSETTS HAMB

    I'm at the point I'm thinking on this one too so I'm going to follow along.

    How hard is the belt? I'm considering wood, wood/rubber/poly, and whatever else I can find as options at this point. I'm sitting on a fabricated subframe that's about an inch and a half channeled and looking to come back up around 3/4"
     
  3. verno30
    Joined: Aug 25, 2008
    Posts: 1,051

    verno30
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I wouldn't use something as thick as 1/2", too much cushion.

    I had good luck using the wood blocks.
     
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  4. Don's Hot Rods
    Joined: Oct 7, 2005
    Posts: 8,319

    Don's Hot Rods
    Member
    from florida

    I like to use thick rubber bisquits, about 3/8 to 1/2 inch think.

    Don
     
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  5. boo
    Joined: Jul 6, 2005
    Posts: 554

    boo
    Member
    from stuart,fl.

    just finished mounting a 27 cpe on mdl A frame, used 1/4'' rubber at mounts.
     
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  6. oldolds
    Joined: Oct 18, 2010
    Posts: 3,051

    oldolds
    Member

    I have used conveyor belting. It has plys in it. It will not crack like a piece of wood or plain rubber. Some old cars I have taken apart have had a similar material for mounting from the factory. The thickness should not really matter.
     
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  7. Flathead Dave
    Joined: Mar 21, 2014
    Posts: 3,070

    Flathead Dave
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from So. Cal.

    I am doing the exact same thing as you. Did you have a gap/space between your frame and body? Can I see a picture if you have one of the body on the frame?
     
  8. boo
    Joined: Jul 6, 2005
    Posts: 554

    boo
    Member
    from stuart,fl.

    yes there is a gap between the body and frame. i welded to the frame to have pads where the t mounted to the T frame, rubber bads were about 2in square, i z'd the frame in rear and had to make a droped braket in rear to catch rear of body. i dont have any pix of what i did, lost the chip from my camera, cant see it now ,all covered up w/louvered valance the length of body. ph 772-287-1756 if i can help.
     
  9. Flathead Dave
    Joined: Mar 21, 2014
    Posts: 3,070

    Flathead Dave
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from So. Cal.

    Thanks for the quick answer. How much of a gap did it give you?
     
  10. boo
    Joined: Jul 6, 2005
    Posts: 554

    boo
    Member
    from stuart,fl.

    i'll look tomorow, was pretty close at cowel, i was able to slip my valance between body and frame.
     
  11. boo
    Joined: Jul 6, 2005
    Posts: 554

    boo
    Member
    from stuart,fl.

    about 3/16 clearance
     
  12. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 10,806

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    I built 4 body mounts with 1/2" bolts. For cushions I used hockey pucks cut down to 2 1/2" diameter with a hole saw. That's right, hockey pucks !
    To keep the body mounted solid I then drilled the pucks for a steel tube crush sleeve that limits the crush when the bolts are tightened.
    The body ends up well mounted and cushioned a little at the same time.
    My buddy has a T roadster pickup done the same way and his body mounts have lasted almost 20 years now with zero issues.
     
  13. Hackerbilt
    Joined: Aug 13, 2001
    Posts: 6,246

    Hackerbilt
    Member

    I've used pucks before and they worked great.
    LAST time I used them (about 8 years ago) they crumbled and split within a year...about 8 months actually!
    Seems at least some of them are now made of inferior materials, for mount use anyway. A friend has them on a 57 Chevy car for over 20 years and still perfect.

    I havent tried them yet, but next time I need something like that I intend to look at some high quality boat trailer rollers. The cheap ones are garbage, but the more expensive ones seem to be good...and even available in urethane if you want to go that route. There are various shapes that look like they would be simple to cut up and adapt.
    Mind you some are configured with voids that would kill the mount use idea , so you would need to check them over well for your intended use before wasting money.
    Just throwing it out there as a possible mount donor! ;)
     

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