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Technical Body filler products....name your poison....

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by RMONTY, Aug 19, 2020.

  1. RMONTY
    Joined: Jan 7, 2016
    Posts: 2,257

    RMONTY
    Member

    Very soon I am going to be needing to do some "bondo" work on my project. What are the best products out there in today's market?
     
  2. flatford39
    Joined: Dec 3, 2006
    Posts: 2,800

    flatford39
    Member

    I still use Rage. Just used to it after all these years. Never really had it fail on me.
     
    RMONTY and 31Apickup like this.
  3. Bandit Billy
    Joined: Sep 16, 2014
    Posts: 8,167

    Bandit Billy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I like silicone
     
  4. DDDenny
    Joined: Feb 6, 2015
    Posts: 15,613

    DDDenny
    Member
    from oregon

    No, not that kind of body work!:D
     
    41rodderz and OLSKOOL57 like this.

  5. Model A Gomez
    Joined: Aug 26, 2006
    Posts: 1,506

    Model A Gomez
    Member

    Also Rage, easy to work and never had a problem.
     
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  6. RMONTY
    Joined: Jan 7, 2016
    Posts: 2,257

    RMONTY
    Member

    Which Rage are you guys using.?....they seem to have several different products....?

    Extreme
    Gold
    Ultra
     
  7. Ready mix mortar works good with chicken wire.
     
  8. RMONTY
    Joined: Jan 7, 2016
    Posts: 2,257

    RMONTY
    Member

    Too chalky for the look I am going for.....
     
  9. Check out 3M Platinum Plus...spreads nicely and sands awesome..
     
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  10. I don't know anything about Body Man in a Can. My Dad called it Cheaters Salve. I do understand there are times.
     
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  11. fresh hops
    Joined: Oct 19, 2019
    Posts: 63

    fresh hops

    Rage gold used with Evercoat Plastik Honey since it takes me so long to go through a gallon of filler. Followed with Metal Glaze ultra.
    I also use a guide coat product, I prefer powder over spray.
     
    RMONTY likes this.
  12. flatford39
    Joined: Dec 3, 2006
    Posts: 2,800

    flatford39
    Member

  13. RMONTY
    Joined: Jan 7, 2016
    Posts: 2,257

    RMONTY
    Member

    I understand what you are saying PnB, and if I can avoid using filler, I am going to. There are areas of the quarter panels I am putting on that have little or no access to the back side to do hammer and dolly work, at least from what little I know about body work. I don't have a helper most of the time to climb in there and hold a dolly in place while I work it with hammers. Maybe I can convince @trevorsworth to come give me a hand for a weekend or two once we get that flathead of his fired off. ;)

    The extent of my body work experience was restoring a 1948 CJ2A back about 25 yrs ago. Most of that was flat panels and didnt have the big bulbous fenders like the Sedan Delivery has.

    I have toyed with the idea of using a stud gun and slide hammer along with a shrinking disc to help with some of it. I've never used either of those, but have watched a lot of content on using the tools.
     
  14. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 50,282

    squirrel
    Member

    something with wax, so it doesn't dry tacky.

    Might want to find something else to learn on, though...instead of a rare old car
     
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  15. wulf powis
    Joined: Jun 19, 2017
    Posts: 64

    wulf powis
    Member

    I second GOLD
     
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  16. Rickybop
    Joined: May 23, 2008
    Posts: 7,451

    Rickybop
    Member
    from Michigan

    I'm experimenting with epoxy fiberglass resin thickened with cabosil... fumed silica. (Not on a car) A "powder" but not grainy... real light and fluffy. Mix 1 to 1 to make a nice paste. Add more or less to taste. You can make it as thick as peanut butter. The cabosil strengthens the resin the way fiber cloth or mat does. Tuff stuff. It might have potential automotive applications.
     
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  17. Rickybop
    Joined: May 23, 2008
    Posts: 7,451

    Rickybop
    Member
    from Michigan

    Maybe use polyester resin, depending on type of finish.
     
    RMONTY likes this.
  18. oldsman41
    Joined: Jun 25, 2010
    Posts: 1,556

    oldsman41
    Member

    If you can find an old timer to teach you hammer dolly and lead is the key. My wife’s uncle showed me.not no where as good as he was. The new shrinking discs work pretty good also.
     
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  19. RMONTY
    Joined: Jan 7, 2016
    Posts: 2,257

    RMONTY
    Member

    I worked in a paint and body shop when I was a Senior in high school. I learned the business side of a sanding block and sandpaper. I'm not sure how rare my old car is, but it is old, sorta.

    When you say something with wax, so it doesnt dry tacky, I am not really understanding that. Can you elaborate?

    Thanks for the input!
     
  20. RMONTY
    Joined: Jan 7, 2016
    Posts: 2,257

    RMONTY
    Member

    I had thought about trying lead. I actually bought a bunch of stuff to do lead with a while back. There are some areas around the windshield that are going to need to be re-leaded. I may give that a try as well!
     
  21. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 50,282

    squirrel
    Member

    I think all of the brands that have been recommended to have wax in them, so they dry "hard".

    Read up on how polyester resin for fiberglass works...there is waxed, and unwaxed. The unwaxed is used when you'll add more layers, the waxed is used for the final layer.

    Most fillers today have wax, there are a few that don't...when you go to sand them, it clogs up the paper and is generally a pain .

    Metal work is a whole 'nuther part of bodywork, that is not the same as sanding primer. It's easy to screw things up if you don't know what you're doing. So I suggest you spend some time working on panels on something besides an old sedan delivery, that you probably can't get replacement parts for...until you're sure you have some of the techniques down. Shrinking metal is tricky.

    I would not bother trying to mess with lead. Modern filler works great, and you'll have enough challenge trying to get the metal straight enough, that you don't need to use much filler on it. And the whole process of shaping the filler, is going to be enough of a challenge. If you can develop the skills of laying it on in the proper thickness/shape, then sanding it only as far as it needs, then you'll do well.
     
  22. Depends on how much money you have lmao! I use evercoat in the white and blue can. $16 a gallon. If the customer wants rage then they gotta pay for it. $56 a gallon and it ends up in the floor and then the garbage can. I use usc icing over all of my filler. I average 4 gallons of filler a week and 2 tubes of icing. Not bad for a one man operation
     
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  23. I fully understand using fillers. To do actual metal finish work from where your at now would take you way to long if ever you got there. Get it close, fill it up and carve it out, move on. To do metal finish work you need to have a little better metal fab skills than where your at today. For the amount work you've done and the skill level you started with your doing fine. Next time around you'll do better. As for Lead, have you priced true Body lead lately? Then add shipping. Not really for the novice to practice with.
     
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  24. trevorsworth
    Joined: Aug 3, 2020
    Posts: 949

    trevorsworth
    Member

    I would love to help, especially if you want to try using lead... that is a skill I want to learn. I think bondo makes a lot more sense though.
     
    RMONTY likes this.
  25. Binger
    Joined: Apr 28, 2008
    Posts: 1,733

    Binger
    Member
    from wyoming

    I have used 3M gold filler with good results. I also use evercoat polyester glazing putty for small imperfections after the gold. Try and get the base metal close to shape so that a minimum of filler is used.
     
  26. Chavezk21
    Joined: Jan 3, 2013
    Posts: 676

    Chavezk21
    Member

    Upol, cheaper than rage, same results.
     
  27. billfunk29
    Joined: Jun 28, 2005
    Posts: 42

    billfunk29
    Member
    from Minnesota

  28. oldsman41
    Joined: Jun 25, 2010
    Posts: 1,556

    oldsman41
    Member

    Get an old fender or trunk lid you don’t care about and beat it up. Practice smoothing it out with the dolly then do some lead on it and again practice smoothing the lead with the paddle and heat easy on the heat.
     
    RMONTY likes this.
  29. RMONTY
    Joined: Jan 7, 2016
    Posts: 2,257

    RMONTY
    Member

    Thanks to all for the input. Another quick question....epoxy sealer first, and the filler? Or filler then sealer? My thoughts are sealer, then filler, then sealer over that, and on to primer.
     
  30. papadaddio
    Joined: Nov 13, 2005
    Posts: 31

    papadaddio
    Member
    from Minnesota

    Three for GOLD
     

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