Hi all, I know it`s a often discussed them, this is true. Yes, I was reading the threads about it (even the one with the blown Willys) Yes, I wrote an email to B&M and Hughes a few days ago, but not get an answer till now. Little sade about it, I try my luck here. In May I will be in the States an can pick up my converter and will take it into my suitcase, to take it with me home, to germany. This was my email text: I need a tourqe converter with 10" bolt pattern, for 7/16 bolts, low stall, for my Ford 1929 tudor sedan, engine Hemi 392 bored to 398, mild custom cam, 2x500 Edlelbrock, super charger 6-71 GMC, 3.00:1 Gears, 9"Ford end, cruising RPM 2700 at 100kp/h, car should be mostly cruiser for long distance, no drag race. To explain some more about my issue: The car was build in Nashville by a father son project, thy desided to go with a Torqueflite 727 and a stock converter. somehow the next owner desided to go with a 3400 Stall converter and a 4.11:1 rear end. when I bought the car I was totally unhappy with the combo, cause I use the car on long distance. I changed the rear end to 3.00:1. This lowered the rpm from 4500/100kph to 2700/100kph. This made me happy, as long as the converter begins to make noise... Now, I took the tranny out to change the converter. This is were I stand right now. My idea is to go back to a low stall converter. The bmm10417 would fit all my requirements, regarding bolt pattern, stall speed, etc. But they recommend not to use it for blown engines...Here is my question: Do you think I will run into a problem with this one? Thanks for every of your ideas, opinions and two cent.. Best regards from the feet of the black forest. Michael
B&M does not recommend this converter for blown application because most blown applications see hi-rpm drag race duty. You could get by using this in your particular car if you keep the race activities to a minimum... Best Regards
I believe 73RR is spot on, sounds like you are not really planning on making much boost but rather using the 6-71 for show. If that's accurate tell the manufacturers that and they will likely agree. Sounds like a cool rod to cruise the autobahn.
That deal is built from a 245 mm core, originally used it Chevette 4 cylinder. For 250 bucks , you're not gonna get an upgraded stator or sprag.. Maybe HD rollers and springs. You can build a 245 mm with pretty low stall, but the one in their ad is too high. It may be just a generic picture though. Bottom line: If you're just going cruise and pose, you can probably get away with it. Just don't kick it down at full throttle.
Thanks for your opinion, 73RR and brand apart. The car has arround 8psi. It has plenty of power. Some traffic light acceleration and some burn outs are a must of course.... but mostly cruising. What I do not like with the 3400 stall is the slipping while cruising in towns at smooth acceleration and the slipping at cruising speed. I thank you really, cause you perhaps know, to buy something with a good feeling is much better... Now I am looking forward to reasamble the drive train again. Sent from my SM-G950F using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Dear Mark, you mean I can heart it otherwise? Befire the 3400 swap, they drove the car with a stock converter without an issue, even when they punched the pedal...do you think the b&m is not stronger as the stock one..? The car should make some fun, also... Sent from my SM-G950F using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Instead of a "racing" designed converter I wonder what you might find for a motorhome or towing application. The internal parts should be heavier duty, the stall speed will be lower and the price could be lower too. It will also help keep the trans fluid temperature down. But I'm not so sure about bringing it home in your suitcase...
Why ?? also long as you leave it in the original box with the reciept and it passes x-ray and the sniffer ( explosives ) you should be ok ( I have carried large parts ( 2 cummins fuel pumps ) in my luggage to Canada as long as its not carry on ) . hardest part is customs as your going to have to declare its value when he gets home ..
have you also tried other manufactuers ??? places like TCI can make custom units . I be more worried about balloning from the torque and have them put a belt on it .
TCI can make you a converter to meet your needs, not cheap in price but great product. They made the converter in my blown coupe, with TCI racing trans, full manual.
First point; The lower the stall and RPM, the lower the HP and torque, so yes..higher flash = more trouble. The 12, 13 " converters have bigger rollers and springs, and a bigger stator, so yes , the stock ones could be stronger , in that respect. The down side is they have cast, riveted turbine hubs, which could be broken more easily. The 245 GM to 727 conversion would require machined and welded in hubs, which should be stronger. Some of the factory 245 impellers have furnace brazed fins, but you're not going to get that for $250.Maybe spot braze or tack welded fins.
The hughes 24-20 is 11" Converter has furnace brazed fins and has a 10" bolt circle. And costs the same as the B&M. Any experience with hughes? ..only thing: the threads are 5/16 and my flex plate is for 7/16... Sent from my SM-G950F using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I'm sure you mean spot brazed. I know some of the the guys down there, and prefer to not say any more than that.
Give Revmax Converters a call. Give them all your specs, they will build you what you're looking for. Real reasonable on their prices too. They got their start doing converters for the hot rod diesel stuff. I have a 4000 stall converter of theirs, been street driving and drag racing it for 5 yrs. now with no problems.
I would also call Dynamic Converters in Delaware USA. I use them quite a bit. They can build any converter but they are Chrysler people at heart. I think they would be happy to help you. Gene.
I went thru some of my old Mopar stuff , and found info saying that they used Fairbanks converters for there projects , also they used Frank Lupo In Conneticut .
I've been very happy with Cohn in the A.M.X with a Torque flight. No one has mentioned them yet but well worth a call while your still shopping. Coan Engineering | 2277 E. North Street, Kokomo, IN 46901 | 765.456.3957 | They actually have a build info sheet you can fill out to help ya get what you want/need. They do a lot of normal street performance stuff as well as full Drag race. May be a better fit for you. The Wizzard
, yes it is ,mostly when they ( CPD ) made the RB/B series motors stuff . but info in it is still good for some of the new ( younger guys ) to start out with and use. some of it still has some of the old hemi ( pre 426 stuff in it )
Hi together, after all thoughts and ideas, I will go with the TCI141276. Which will fit all my requirements and iseas you gave me on my way regarding diameter, fins, and quality. Off course its more expensive, but I want to do it ones....not twice. This one can hold 600HP, so I dont have to make me thoughts at every acceleration and little race....think this is the correct disicion. Thanks my friends! You will hear from ne how it acts soon! Mike Sent from my SM-G950F using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Hi all, I have taken the converter in my suitcase - 15KG heavy. Together with the suitcase just inside the allowed weight. My friend and I assembled the tranny again with the TCI Converter. Total different feeling. Hooks at idling. 2700 RPM at 100 km/h no slipping. Still enough power from low rpm...still no problem to do a burn out. And best: no slipping at acceleration from a traffic light, which means better "sound carpet" from start.....love it!!! Sent from my SM-G950F using The H.A.M.B. mobile app