Register now to get rid of these ads!

Blower Help!

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by jtm_elcamino, Feb 17, 2013.

  1. jtm_elcamino
    Joined: Feb 17, 2013
    Posts: 43

    jtm_elcamino
    Member
    from Uvalde Tx

    Im slowly building a blown 383.. have a 6v71 huffer and ive found a street rebuild kit from dyers. im making my own manifold by gutting a dual quad unit and welding on a adapter plate. but as far as the drive assembly im in a twist. was thinking of running a bbc blower snout since the blower will be set back a bit.. ive seen guys run these blowers before and they say they run great
     
  2. saltflats
    Joined: Aug 14, 2007
    Posts: 10,443

    saltflats
    Member
    from Missouri

    Just get one of the ATI super dampers set up for the blower pully and have the crank dubbel keyed.
     
  3. jtm_elcamino
    Joined: Feb 17, 2013
    Posts: 43

    jtm_elcamino
    Member
    from Uvalde Tx

    ok thanks. you think the long blower drive snout will hurt anything?



    [​IMG]

    this is basically what im shooting for, except im going to run dual quads
     
  4. saltflats
    Joined: Aug 14, 2007
    Posts: 10,443

    saltflats
    Member
    from Missouri

    Only if you are are planing on puting out some major boost.
     

  5. R35J1S
    Joined: Jul 20, 2012
    Posts: 141

    R35J1S
    Member
    from Missouri

    Shorter is better if you can get away with it. It will put less stress on your crank snout.
     
  6. mart3406
    Joined: May 31, 2009
    Posts: 3,055

    mart3406
    Member
    from Canada

    Just a thought. Have you welded
    the plate to manifold yet? If not,
    you might want to first bolt the
    intake to a dummied-up block
    and heads and properly torque
    everything down when you do the
    welding to keep the manifold from
    warping., To insure proper alignment
    and spacing for the manifold on the
    mocked-up block and heads, don't
    forget to use a pair of head gaskets
    (used ones will do, because they are
    only for spacing and don't have to
    actually seal anything) and set of
    intake gaskets between the heads
    and manifold too.
     
  7. jtm_elcamino
    Joined: Feb 17, 2013
    Posts: 43

    jtm_elcamino
    Member
    from Uvalde Tx

    I havent welded tthe adapter plate on yet.. still need to gut the intake. i was going to mock everything up on a engine so i can make sure i have clearance for the dist. its a slow pace because the guy thats helping me do all this runs our manufacturing shop where I work... i just need to set it up on the bridgeport and have at it but hes been having family problems so we cant get togeather and work on it.. so for now im trying to work out all of the specifics and debate on building my own long block or buying my buddies complete 383 for $800.
     
  8. Capt Crash
    Joined: Jan 21, 2008
    Posts: 108

    Capt Crash
    Member
    from Colorado

    If there is one thing that I have learned about boosted engines of any kind is that you can not skimp on anything. If your buddies engine is already set up for a blower than great, but if not trying to make his work with a blower will be more work, money and suffering than it needs to be.
    I assume that you are building this for cruising/ street use. If that is the case you wont need a big block snout, just get your crank cut for 2 keyways. You can use a stock crank, but if you have the money get a new crank. Even an Eagle or Scat should be OK. By the time that you resize rods, and then buy pistons you could get a rotating assembly of new parts for not much more money. I like ATI balancers. DO NOT use a stock one. Spend the money on good parts for the bottom end, and it should last a long time.
    Brian
     
  9. jtm_elcamino
    Joined: Feb 17, 2013
    Posts: 43

    jtm_elcamino
    Member
    from Uvalde Tx

    The reason im intersted in his motor is because its a 4 bolt block and already has a forged crank with aftermarket rods, was gonna swap for some 8:1 blower pistons and a cam change.. i was shooting for a street/strip pump gas motor
     
  10. Does that have the bottom drive pulley on there ?
    Maybe just the picture, but it looks a few inches longer than it needs to be
     
  11. landseaandair
    Joined: Feb 23, 2009
    Posts: 4,409

    landseaandair
    Member
    from phoenix

    If it's going to see 10#s or more of boost, probably should double key the crank but you might get by without it with lower boost and a good press fit and bolt. The longer snout will only put more stress on the cover and not worth worrying about, but make sure you put at least the one large bolt back in the center of the rear bearing plate as Dyers did. The side attachment points are to narrowly spaced and small to secure it properly. Been a while, but I think the other large hole in the opposite bearing plate would have then been used for a dowell pin to locate the front. Another thing, pretty sure a factory late style inline 6-71 front cover bolts right on the V series.
     
  12. jtm_elcamino
    Joined: Feb 17, 2013
    Posts: 43

    jtm_elcamino
    Member
    from Uvalde Tx

    @31 vicky, Im not sure, i was using this pic to base my intake setup, but from my rough measurments it will need a pretty long snout since the v series blowes have a shorter case than the inlines.

    @landseaandair, I think max psi would be prolly 10. i was looking at the "do it yourself " pin kits that had a guide plate that you bolted to the crank 108* from the factory key and drilled a hole and filled it with a roll pin, but ive read about guys replacing the roll pin with a drill bit shank loc-tited in. I was thinking about using all 6 original mounting holes (since overkill is underrated), I was looking at a BBC drive kit on fleabay from Dyers and he said if i wanted to he could swap the BBC hub for a SBC, but he said the gear cover wouldnt fit even though from the pictures i couldve shaved two corners off and it wouldve been fine. he also said the drive hub that bolted to the blower gear is a different pattern than the v series, but i have access to a CNC so im not too worried about it.
     
  13. landseaandair
    Joined: Feb 23, 2009
    Posts: 4,409

    landseaandair
    Member
    from phoenix

    The pin thing seems hokey, dont they do that on blown LS motors? Dyers did or does make a tight fitting single key steel hub. I used one with a steel crank, fresh key and an ARP bolt that never spun at 10#s. Beat the crap out of it and even had a few lean backfires that spit fire out the air cleaner.

    Never tried it personally but I know I've seen the covers interchange. Do need the ears trimmed a little though. Some of the older fuel cars ran V8-71s that way too, before they started stretching cases. Here's one from the web.
    image_8298_01.jpg



    Don't know about the coupler pattern but the V series gears need it to be installed with a dial indicator to center it properly. They use V series gears in a bunch of the inline blowers now as the early gears are getting harder to find so couplers, different or not, should be available.
     
  14. jtm_elcamino
    Joined: Feb 17, 2013
    Posts: 43

    jtm_elcamino
    Member
    from Uvalde Tx

    most of the kits ive found for the keys are for LS motors but some companies make kits for sbc and bbcs. Its probably a dumb idea but im trying to keep a budget on this motor while keeping it as solid as i can. i know ill have to fork out money where it needs to go but im trying to do the labor myself. I believe there is a guy in town that has done this blower set up before, since alot of farmers used to run v series detroits for irrigation engines.
     
  15. jtm_elcamino
    Joined: Feb 17, 2013
    Posts: 43

    jtm_elcamino
    Member
    from Uvalde Tx

    alright guys finally making a little progress.. got the heads on the 355 im building for my truck and I set my intake on it to measure it up for machining... and I was curious if anyone knew if the mating surfaces between the block decks were in line with the crank? if it is it would make setting the intake up on the brigeport way easier. I have measurements for a backup if they aren't.
     
  16. jtm_elcamino
    Joined: Feb 17, 2013
    Posts: 43

    jtm_elcamino
    Member
    from Uvalde Tx

  17. Well they are supposed to be parallel and they follow mass production standards. Unless the decks were cut "perfect" on purpose and the crank pockets were trued in a rebuild they will be "close". Does that help?
     
  18. If you are asking if you can just set the bottom of the intake on the table and mill the top parallel, yes that usually works just fine on a Chevy. Keep in mind the manifold probably has a 2-3 deg angle down to the front that you will have to get rid of. The side (port) surfaces of the manifold are NOT parallel to the cylinders.
     
  19. jtm_elcamino
    Joined: Feb 17, 2013
    Posts: 43

    jtm_elcamino
    Member
    from Uvalde Tx

    Yes I noticed it had a forward lean when I set the blower on it. thanks for the info itl make my life easier to machine.. fingers crossed I get to cut on it this weekend. When I get my new motor in my 64 ill pull this back to the front burner and hopefully start piecing it togeather as my paycheck allows!
     
  20. fast30coupe
    Joined: Nov 15, 2009
    Posts: 1,018

    fast30coupe
    Member
    from Illinois

    Have your back beating plate on and your distributor in mock up everything you want to use, I would Second torquing the manifold before welding.


    Posted from the TJJ App for iPhone & iPad
     
  21. jtm_elcamino
    Joined: Feb 17, 2013
    Posts: 43

    jtm_elcamino
    Member
    from Uvalde Tx

    I plan on it. if the intake goes reasonably quickly ill try to waterjet out the adapter plate for it too.
     
  22. toxic waste
    Joined: Dec 18, 2011
    Posts: 383

    toxic waste
    Member
    from Iowa

    Is that a dual plane intake? If it is that won't work. I have tried it and junked it quickly. It will not flow right and the low runners will run rich and high runners will be leaner. About the drive snout lenth. you want to move the blower forward alittle. the twist on the rooters tends to move the air toward the rear cylinders. Just my 2 cents. It's fun to build stuff like this.
     
  23. jtm_elcamino
    Joined: Feb 17, 2013
    Posts: 43

    jtm_elcamino
    Member
    from Uvalde Tx

    Yes it is a dual plane, but I think I can open it up internally enough to make it work. Im having a blast doing it even at the super slow pace that its been going. luckily folks here at the hamb are willing to help out!
     
  24. toxic waste
    Joined: Dec 18, 2011
    Posts: 383

    toxic waste
    Member
    from Iowa

    I opened it all up and it just didn't work for me. It didnt take long to cut it up and use a single plane intake .
     

    Attached Files:

  25. jtm_elcamino
    Joined: Feb 17, 2013
    Posts: 43

    jtm_elcamino
    Member
    from Uvalde Tx

    is that your single plane? I cant tell from the pic. how badly was it leaning out? ive got it moved forward about an inch and a half forward of center. im gonna open it up anyway so i can learn how to use the milling machine at work.
     
  26. toxic waste
    Joined: Dec 18, 2011
    Posts: 383

    toxic waste
    Member
    from Iowa

    This is the dual plane intake. Click on picture and it will open to bigger picture. The high ports was fine but the lower ports was so wet that it would foul the plugs. # 8 cylinder lower port in the back was so wet from fuel collecting that the cylinder was dead.
     
  27. jtm_elcamino
    Joined: Feb 17, 2013
    Posts: 43

    jtm_elcamino
    Member
    from Uvalde Tx

    Damn.. Looks like I'm on a search for a single plane now.
     
  28. I guess by 383 you meant SBC stroker motor.

    I didn't think Chevy manifolds were hard to find?! :confused:
     
  29. jtm_elcamino
    Joined: Feb 17, 2013
    Posts: 43

    jtm_elcamino
    Member
    from Uvalde Tx

    Yea a stroker motor. They're not hard to find but the blower I have isn't a traditional 6-71 bolt pattern.. Was gonna make a intake for it
     
  30. Well you could use a Sbc blower intake, I'd at least pick up a used one for looking at and then sell it when you are finished.
    Or you should be able to pick up a single plain cheap on the local Craigslist.
     

Share This Page

Register now to get rid of these ads!

Archive

Copyright © 1995-2020 The Jalopy Journal: Steal our stuff, we'll kick your teeth in. Terms of Service. Privacy Policy.

Atomic Industry
Forum software by XenForo™ ©2010-2014 XenForo Ltd.