Best way to lower a '57 chevy without buyin high priced crap?

I've got a 1957 Chevy 210 2 door that I would like to lower. I'm wanting to do it without the expense of lowered spindles or springs from some expensive supplier. Some of the front springs advertised drop them 1 1/2" but for all I know the fronts could have some of that in sag now. The car only has 90K miles on it and sits very level now so I don't really think it's saggin now. Looking for someone with experience on how much you can maybe cut from the front springs without screwing it up or maybe a spring application from NAPA(I get a good discount there) that would work. I could make some lowering blocks but don't know what they will tolerate inch wise without knotchin the frame. I appreciate any experiences that you have that would be helpful. Thanks, TomCat 1

 

I had 4" blocks in the back and 2 coils off in front on my 56, but the two coils was a tad too much. I dragged the headers even on slight wavy road surfaces. Now I have dropped spindles, airbags and a four link.
before

now


Íf I had to do it again I´d go with dropped spindles and lowering blocks.

 

Sell it to someone who can afford to buy the parts to do the lowering properly and safely

 

You can lower a car without spending a lot of $$$... get NEW springs and start by cutting one coil and try it... your old springs are sagging I can guarantee it. New springs also tend to be taller than the originals from my experience so you may have to cut a little more than on the old, worn out coils.

Out back use 3" or 4" blocks... cheap, easy and safe.

 

Sell it my ass.........I can afford to put a whole new Morrison chassis under it but that's not the point. I don't want too!!!!!!!! I guess I'm Old School, I want to do it myself like it used to be done. Also I've owned this 90K car for 30 years stock as a rock and am just lookin for some sutle changes. Why can't people just be nice,,,,I know its the internet! TomCat 1

 

Kroozer is pretty close. Buy the 2 1/2" drop coils from CCI.(Classic Chevy International) in Florida. Cut one coil outta each end. Gets ya down about four inches in front, and you can still get it aligned. Lowering blocks in the rear. 3'' for the perfect rake. Done it many ways, but this works good for less. good luck. Pm me with questions.

 

Go away.

 

I know this car isn't exactly HAMB friendly with painted bumpers but that's not the point.... It has 2" spindles, 1 coil cut and 205X15". The front crossmember is exactly 3" off the ground. I had very few instances were it dragged and when it did I found that it was usually the kick up area behind the crossmember. In the back I took apart several sets of stock leaves and assemble a set a few times till I had the ride height the way I wanted it without leaving out any spring leafs with 235X15's. I drove it like this for 10 years with no problems. It had a pretty nice ride, in fact, not what you might expect from a non-bagged car this low.If I had it to do over I'd do it the same....

 

Thanks for the help

 

Man I love the stance of your '57! What size tires are you runnin'. That's what I'm talkin about as far as friendly people given real life helpful advice. Also that '55 wagon is about badass............. I'm just wantin to do some subtle changes. Planning a trip up to St Paul for the Back to the 50's weekend.... I guess I'm just wantin' to play with it a little before we go. thats what its all about, workin on your ride then taken a long trip to try it out. The ole' 283 is alittle tired and I'm going to give it my own hotrod rebuild when we get back but I'm sure she'll make one last trip as is. Thanks and any other responses are Appreciated. TomCat 1

 

fill the trunk with concrete. that's they way to do it "Old school"...

 

just go mild. cut a coil and a half off the front, and some 3 inch blocks in the rear. done.

 

i had a 55 and 57, cut 2 coils from front and trim your bump stop and lowering blocks in the rear. you can buy them for about 30 beans...i wouldnt recommend making your own. 1 coil is usualy 1.5 inches

 

I know my Olds front end is different, so take my opinion lightly.
2 coils was a little too much, 1 1/2 would probably be better.
I have bounced between 2" and 3" inch blocks from summer to summer, If its running alot on the open road( with the trunk full ) its looks better with the 2"s.
But they are very cheap.

 

The way it used to be done, back when I was a kid was usually to cut a coil and use some blocks on the rear.

Usually done because it was cheap, us high school kids didn't have a pile of coin. The result was a rough ride, poor suspension and sometimes it wasn't too safe.

Just because it used to be done that way doesn't make it something nostalgic or desireable, it's still just as cheap and makeshift as it always was.

Saw a fridge magnet today it said "If I have offended anyone today, my efforts have been rewarded"

 

I've never heard of cutting more than 2 coils in the front - you'll eventually be limited by camber. Lowering blocks in the rear - seems like you can do about as much as you want there, just need long u-bolts. Not sure how low you want to go, but no reason to notch the frame unless you're thinking radical...

 

NINE INCH - Beautiful car!

 

I used '67-'68 camaro/firebird front springs. They're good for about 2" before they're cut & have a little heavier spring rate than stock.

 

I cut one full coil out of my '56 when I had it and it sat just right. About the same as Nine Inches '57.

 

Heat the coils cherry red and put in 3 inch blocks if you wanna be trad. It'll ride ruff but that s trad.

 

Ha ha Yah bitch!!!!!

 

Have you tried cinder blocks? A couple of corn fed honeys might be more fun!

 

When I first built this one I used new front springs cut 2 coils off and usedc 2" lowering blocks out back after front spings settled I switched to 3" blocks out back to make even. I ran this setup until I sold it 3 years ago. In the 9 years I had it I put 93,000 miles on that car that way.
Handled and rode great odd time might rub tail pipe ends going in and out drives and scraped frame very rarely.

 

One coil in the front & a Big Block that'll lower her real nice..............

 

If you cut the front coils, be sure to cut full coils (1 or 2) not halves. Why? The top and bottom end of the spring fits into dead-end pockets in the frame (top) and lower control arm (bottom) so spring is straight and won't move. If you cut half or partials, the spring tends to bow (you've seen cars where spring bows and hits shock) and car may not sit level. Cutting one coil from the CCI springs is good. You can also reverse the rear eyelet (with some heat with shackle out) that will give you 2" lower in the rear.

 

I've been busy with my machine shed to full shop conversion but put the shop on hold so I can get the '57 ready for back to the '50's. I've got the brakes all rebuilt and and had a friend of mine give me a brand new in the box Wizard lowering block set(2") that I put on the rear. I cut one coil off the top of the left front spring and just got it back in. I'm hoping the stance will be about right with the 2" blocks. I would have liked to go a little more but I fully understand about only being able to cut full coils so they still match the pockets and was alittle shy of cutting 2 coils on a set of used springs. I'm also going to forget the full wheel covers and go with trim rings, bullet lugs, and chrome dust covers to see how that looks. I picked up a speaker encloser that goes on the hump of a '50's car this weekend at a swap meet for $15 hoping to put 2 speakers in it with an 8-track so I can relive some of my old parkin' toons. I'll put some pics in later, anyone know what that speaker encloser was for? Thanks, TomCat1

 

Extra pics

 

I cut out two and half coils up front and used 4" blocks in the rear. The entire job was done in just a few hours. It is sitting in a weird spot in this photo that makes the rear look a little lower than normal.

 

This is 4" blocks in the rear with over load springs on the shocks.In the front I have 2" Classic Chevy lowering springs and Hook type clamps made from all thread.This car riders great and has been that way for 5 years now.The only trouble I had on the rear is I could not run wide rims or tires .
Tom ( Tired Old Man)

 

We're back from St. Paul's Back to the 50's. Thought I'd throw up a couple of pics. The one is by gate 5 at St. Paul and the other is after ariving home. I ended up cutting one coil off of the top of the front springs. the stock spring seemed to be wound a little different on top and I had heard it would ride better so not too sure it matters but thats what I did. Also I installed the 2" lowering blocks in the rear. None of this seemed to effect the ride or handleing, of coarse I did get an alignment before I left as it affected it. The pic in St Paul is alittle lower due to all the stuff we took to travel such as lots of tools, spare parts, chairs, canopy, and whatever else we could cram in that trunk and back seat. The one at home still has my tool box in it. It did settle out in the rear some after driving but seems about right. I kind of wish it was alittle lower in the front but with just taking out whole coils at atime I'm afraid it might have adverse effects on ride and alignment with two whole coils cut out. If I had another set of stock springs I might experiment later but its kool enough for now. If you get a chance to go to Back to the 50's do it, It's great!