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Best single stage paint

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by martinautobody1, Nov 27, 2013.

  1. martinautobody1
    Joined: Jul 18, 2012
    Posts: 54

    from Ohio

    After years of spraying my cars with clearcoat, I'm wanting to do my next 1950 buick in single stage Ferrari red. What kind of paint do you guys like for single stage these days, and what kind of gun do you like to use? Which brand of paint has the least orange peel? How does it wet sand and buff? Ken
  2. henryj1951
    Joined: Sep 23, 2012
    Posts: 2,305

    from USA

    apple peal... sorry

    Orange Peel
    Also known as: poor flow, poor levelling, pebbling

    Uneven surface formation - much like that of the skin of an orange - which results from poor coalescence of atomized paint droplets. Paint droplets dry before they can flow out and level smoothly together.

    Origin and Potential Causes:
    Improper gun adjustment and techniques. Too little air pressure, wide fan patterns or spraying at excessive gun distances causes droplets to become too dry during their travel time to the work surface and they remain as formed by gun nozzle.
    Extreme shop temperature. When air temperature is too high, droplets lose more solvent and dry out before they can flow and level properly.
    Improper dry. Gun fanning before paint droplets have a chance to flow together will cause orange peel.
    Improper flash or recoat time between coats. If first coats of enamel are allowed to become too dry, solvent in the paint droplets of following coats will be absorbed into the first coat before proper flow is achieved.
    Wrong thinner or reducer. Under-diluted paint or paint thinned with fast evaporating thinners or reducers causes the atomized droplets to become too dry before reaching the surface. Too high viscosity.
    Low shop temperature.
    Too little thinner or reducer.
    Materials not uniformly mixed. Many finishes are formulated with components that aid coalescence. If these are not properly mixed, orange peel will result.
    Substrate not sanded thoroughly

    Prevention Techniques:
    Use proper gun adjustments, techniques, and air pressure.
    Schedule painting to avoid temperature and humidity extremes.
    Select the thinner or reducer that is suitable for existing conditions. The use of a slower evaporating thinner or reducer will overcome this.
    Allow sufficient flash and dry time. Do not dry by fanning.
    Allow proper drying time for undercoats and topcoats. Not too long or not too short.
    Reduce to recommended viscosity with proper thinner/reducer.
    Stir all pigmented undercoats and topcoats thoroughly.
    Prepare and sand substrate correctly.
    Follow recommendations on technical data sheets.

    For mild cases, sand and polish using recommended materials and techniques.
    In extreme cases, sand down to smooth surface and refinish, using a slower evaporating thinner or reducer at the correct air pressure.
    Last edited: Nov 27, 2013
  3. 59 brook
    Joined: Jun 12, 2005
    Posts: 1,017

    59 brook

    dont know if its still available but my buddy sprayed centari and we were really impressed
  4. I have used PPG Deltron (DCC) for years with great results. It polishes nicely as well.
    Stay away from the budget lines of single stage, they really suck IMO...

  5. Blackmaria60
    Joined: Apr 30, 2008
    Posts: 532


    I used PPG Shopline a couple times and it worked out very well. Inexpensive too..
  6. mogara
    Joined: Mar 10, 2006
    Posts: 143


    We shoot DuPont Chroma System single stage, and we are very happy with how it lays down. The only tricky part is that it dries extremely hard, so if you're going to wet sand and buff it, you need to do it withing a couple days of painting, or it is a real bear to smooth out.
  7. bangngears
    Joined: Aug 30, 2007
    Posts: 1,000

    from ofallon mo

    I have had good luck with Centari.
  8. I'm 99% sure centari is still available.
    In a solid color You really can get a perfect finish with this stuff, but for me its not perfect out of the gun. When I use perfect I mean none of that cellulite look, no scratches, no swirls but it takes some effort in the cut and rub.
  9. ThompsonSpeed
    Joined: Oct 4, 2011
    Posts: 131


    I used the NAPA(not sure brand name) paint on a car recently, single stage. Turned out really well, after wet sanding and buffing of course. :)
  10. NMCarNut
    Joined: Nov 28, 2009
    Posts: 633


    I've used R-M Uno and PPG DCC, both with excellent results. For what it is worth a Lotus 23 shot with DCC took first in class at the Santa Fe Concorso this year.
  11. NMCarNut
    Joined: Nov 28, 2009
    Posts: 633


    And oh yea, to answer your question the Lotus was shot with a DeVilbiss Finishline 4 with 1.3MM tip (not the best gun in the world). The initial finish was pretty decent but after a 2 day cure at about 72 degrees an easy sand and buff.
    coolhandponcho54 likes this.
    Joined: Sep 17, 2010
    Posts: 55


    Had trouble getting hardener for my Centari this summer, had to go to Rhode Island to get it. Found Centari to be very forgiving. Marvin,ct
  13. robyyo
    Joined: Sep 8, 2005
    Posts: 236

    from Orange CA

    Finish 1 from Sherwin Williams automotive. This paint's pretty good, it costs about $130 per gallon with hardener. I've sprayed quite a few gallons of their galaxy silver and it's never let me down. I use a Devilbiss finish line gun with the 1.3 tip for the larger areas and a Devilbiss starting line touch up gun for the nooks and crannies. These guns work well and are pretty cheap from TCP global.

  14. Yep I have been shooting DuPont for ages and I like the chroma series single stage better then any other.

    I think when you get into brand name paints that there is no real better single stage just preferecne to how it shoots. Everyone shoots different.
  15. Just a heads up for all those suggesting Dupont, Dupont sold the automotive refinish side of their business to Axalta. The paint is now branded under the Axalta name so if you are looking for Dupont it is no longer going to be called Dupont once suppliers run out of stock.
  16. Wow- is that going to be same DuPont products under different name or is DuPont just going to be gone, or is axalta stuff taking the shelf space of DuPont.
    I'm not familiar with the axalta name
  17. henryj1951
    Joined: Sep 23, 2012
    Posts: 2,305

    from USA

  18. I just went to the link provided and could not find anything on the OLD "Dupont Lucite Acrylic Lacquer" does that mean we can not get the dupont #99s diamond black ?

    I've been doing some looking into paint as I will be painting my '30 soon and was liking the TCP Global stuff and was thinking about trying their lacquer, any input?
  19. mogara
    Joined: Mar 10, 2006
    Posts: 143


    I don't know about lacquer because we don't shoot that, but it is my understanding that all of the DuPont automotive paint will eventually be rebranded as Axalta. The new owners have promised to change the name only and not any of the product. We'll see...
  20. powrshftr
    Joined: Mar 29, 2013
    Posts: 4,550


    The last complete paint job I did was RM Glasurit 21 line.....that was almost 20 yrs ago,and it has held up surprisingly well....a very deep,wet looking shine to it as well.


    Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
  21. I would be amazed if everything stayed the same. Every company that buys another claims they will keep everything the same and then a year or two later the changes start. Acquisitions like this are rarely for the technology but more for the market share that comes with it.

    Sorry to the OP for derailing his thread I just didn't want him looking for Dupont and not being able to find it as Dupont and PPG tend to be the two most recommended paint lines on this board.
  22. X2, I used a Devilbiss GTI gun.

    Of course California outlawed it but I still have some different colors left for a few more paint jobs.
  23. Midget25
    Joined: May 2, 2012
    Posts: 168


    If you want to wet sand and buff why not go ahead and clear coat it? When you wet sand and buff single stage if it a metallic you risk sanding through layers of metallic. Then it looks funny with different shades of metallic.
  24. Minor Problem
    Joined: Jun 24, 2008
    Posts: 36

    Minor Problem

  25. beyond static
    Joined: Apr 3, 2011
    Posts: 136

    beyond static
    from Louisiana

    I've sprayed all the major brands while working in different shops, and in the end they're equal IMO
    Joined: Dec 27, 2009
    Posts: 1,262


    IF you want the BEST - Glausirit 21 line is the BEST.

  27. HotRodHighley
    Joined: Feb 12, 2008
    Posts: 395

    from cincy, oh

    For solid colors we use PPG Deltron (DCC). Sharp gun 1.3 tip. Make sure you spray at least 3 to 4 coats if you want to buff. Like Midget25 commented, metallics you want base coat/ clear coat.
  28. john worden
    Joined: Nov 14, 2007
    Posts: 1,752

    john worden
    from iowa

    I think Glasurit 21 line is discontinued. 22 line is the Urethane Acrylic single stage that i've used and it is spectacular. Centari would be a good choice as well.
  29. i have found the same to be true. it's all about what you like to spray. ppg dcc...

    Attached Files:

  30. That stuff is J U N K
    I wouldn't paint lawn furniture with it

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