The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by shilde6, Aug 10, 2011.
What is the best oil to put in my 49 chevy with the stock 216.
non detergent 30W.
Something with ZDDP, Brad Penn, Valvoline VR1
can I just get a ZDDP additive and use a non detergent oil
Non detergent is for your air compressor. Be on the save side, use 15W40.
hehe....I"ll stick with my air compressor oil. It's kept my 216 running for 25 years that I know of.............
If it's a high milage one that's sludged up from using nondetergent, non detergent with ZDDP additive would be the way to go, you don't want the crap breaking loose if you used diesel oil. If recently done some of the preSM grade oil would be good.
If you decide on non-detergent, be careful what you use. Some non-detergent oil is lower quality than "regular" off the shelf detergent oil. Although there are alternatives, if you don't mind the cost, non-detergent Aero-Shell is a good option. You can buy it at airports.
Joe Gibbs or Brad Penn oil with the lead (zddp) - you can't use an additive with the modern grade of oils. The newest grade (API type SN) has a detergent molecule that is intended to wash out any zddp additive. It is a government mandated improvement to protect catalytic converters. So you shouldn't use type SN oil, you should get oil specifically made for flat tappet engines and the only ones that i know of are Joe Gibbs & Brad Penn.
If you don't mind changing @ no more than 1,500 miles Wal-Mart carries Accel 30W nondetergent oil that is SA, no additives @ all. Toss in some ZDDP.....
ZDDP is zinc, not lead.
I don't know anything about this, I'm asking. If the new oil is made to "wash out any zddp additive", where does the ZDDP get washed to?
I think it washes zinc off the cam & other surfaces, probably intended to keep zinc from passing the rings & contributing to emissions.
use Valvoline VR-1 30 weight. My local oreillys sells it
I believe detergent oils do not wash gunked up sludge from already abused engines at all. I seem to remember that the detergent simply prevents further, or any, buildup from occuring by keeping contaminants in suspension, orrrrrrr is that oil company claptrap?
Everything I've learned is you do not put detergent oil in these old engines because they have no oil filter, or at best a bypass filter, so any crap that gets loose in the oil can go right to your bearings or plug oil passages.
That said, I ran a junk 235 on SAE 30 that had no filter and had remains of a mouse nest and water in the oil and it would still run if I hooked it up and ran some gas into it. How long, who knows, I lot drove the car a little, it sure seems like it should have blown up or something. Maybe I should have put a brick on the gas and see how long it took. The block's cracked anyways.
I would recommend Shell Rotella T.
Good question, and sorry about the lead thing. A rep was in the shop last week explaining this stuff and i am paraphrasing - he said we should talk to Lake Speed Jr, call 866-611-1820 at Joe Gibbs Racing and pose the question. But what the rep said is that the zinc works its' way into the metal filling the microscopic valleys and created that protective layer on moving metal parts. Type SN oil modifies that additive so it remains in the oil, won't adhere and is flushed out with oil change instead of being burnt in the exhaust and lodging in the catalytic converter.
I have shop gatherings in the winter and he offered to come and bring Lake Speed Jr and do a demo to explain what we need to be aware of.
The other thing he said that got my attention is that when an oil is API spec it makes no difference whose oil it is, it is all the same or it wouldn't meet the spec. They can make proprietary additions (like Kendall green tint) as long as it meets the spec - so the mfgrs have that slogan 'meets or exceeds...' but if the can says 'API type SN' then that is what is in that can.
Diesel is high in detergent, plus the new CJ has no more zddp than SM
At least one oil Co. has admitted that SM isn't backwards compatible, was posted on one of these oil threads.
From what i understand it is type SM that took the zinc out and caused all those cam/lifter failures. The bad thing is taht the government has one-upped to type SN and that is the stuff that will remove any additive to compensate for type SM.
I was told if you have a roller motor no worries, flat tappet cams have problems.
yup, but a high milage engine with weakend valve springs MIGHT get away with it.
My car has an older engine (1960) and the previous owner said to use 30wt non detergent with a ZDDP additive. Its been really hot here this year so I thought I would go to 40wt,couldn't find 40wt non detergent anywhere but Tractor Supply,so been running it with Rislone additive for about 1500 miles ---NOW I read the jug (comes in 2 gal jug) and it says----A non detergent oil that is designed for use where additives are not required. Recommended for straight mineral oil lubrication. Not recommended for use in automobile engines Rated API SA. Not suitable for automobile engines built after 1930!!!!!
So,should I drain it immediately?.
Does HD on a oil can mean high detergent,or heavy duty?
I had the valve covers and valley pan off past winter and although everything was black,there was no big pockets of sludge--it has a spin on filter. I used Brad Penn in my previous rod (it was fairley new rebuild) wonder if I could use it in this engine,it already has ZDDP and comes in 20W50 or straight 30 and 50 Wt
SA is no additives & actually has the "no use after 1930" comment. Can't believe enough Wal-Mart customers have pre '31 cars to make it viable to sell, but they keep it in stock, I guess a lot of people arn't reading the label. They dropped the good SF Accel & kept the SA Accel, strange. The Resilone is the additive in your case, but the not for use in SA rated engines & Sa is for pre 31 is strange also. Your '60 needs pre SM oil, or SM with zppp additive, risilone is supposed to be good for that. HD is heavy Duty, but what is current definition of that?
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