Technical Best gm rearend for a 1936 Ford Coupe???

I'm trying to find out what Chevy rear end guys have put in there 36 Ford Coupes. I'm doing a 5 lug ifs set up all the way around and want to see what is going to bolt right in if anything. I was thinking maybe older Camaro or something newer but not sure. What do you guys have out there that bolts up easily? Gonna use a 5 lug, 2 link setup. ..just wanna know what rear to shop around for...thanks fellas!

 

Nothing will come close to "bolt in" unless your 36 was modified before? The 35/36 rear has oval shaped plates welded to both axle tubes, with 2 holes each that bolt to the 35/36 rear arms.

that is a good setup, and places do sell new plates to weld to a newer rear end. Those plates make it simple to swap.

Before choosing a rear end, figure out what type of wheel and tire for the back. If you wanted deeper dish wheels, you'd need a narrower rear. Old time wheels with more backspace can use a wider rear.

Hamb is about old stuff mostly, but you will get newer suggestions too. I can't see any logical reason to do the silly "explorer disc brake rear". A car with little weight out back does not need rear discs.

Post some more info on what look you want, tires, wheel offset etc, to narrow it down.

 

And you can get custom offset rims made up through "Wheel Vintiques." I had some made for my coupe and they were about $125. each.

What's the motor going to be? ( sounds like maybe the old standby 350 Chebbie?)

 

I built a 36 5 window years ago and I remember crawling thorough the local wrecking yard with a tape measure until I found a rear end out of a late 80's SS Monte Carlo that fit backing plate to backing plate spot on with my aluminum Enkei wheels (like I said, I'm not sure how long ago it was but Miami Vice was still on).

The rear was a trailing arm, coil spring design so it was not a bolt in but it worked well and if it ever broke on the road there were plenty lying around in yards.

 

I used a mid to late 70's Granada 8" rear on a '36 Roadster. Was very happy with it.

 

not the strongest if you have major HP but a tri 5 Chevy rear fits like a glove
my 56 Rear has been in my car since 1959

 

I installed a '57 Ford 9" on my '36 3w. Fits great.

 

I built a 35 and a 37 for customers, used a 4 wheel drive S10 rear in both , worked well

 

Actually, they are a lot stronger than they get credit for. They use the same posi unit as an 8 3/4 " Chrysler. It does make a difference with what center section is used. The 57 and newer cases are beefier, especially the P cases, (for original posi-tractions).

A 57 Pontiac / Olds would be a good choice, too. VERY strong and new parts are available again.

 

GM makes a quality rear end?

 

65-67 Nova rear end is great at 51.5 " BP to BP but hard to find these days. I did one using the CE rear end kit. I've been told that S10 disc brake rearend works well but earlier regular S10 rears are too narrow at 48" BP to BP.
68 and up Novas were about 1.5 to 2" wider than the earlier rears if my memory is correct.

 

Al
The 64-67 Nova 10 bolts can be found occasionally and yes they are plenty strong for the average street hot rod. A friend put one in a new Model A chassis he had built and did not narrow it. Now the 12 bolt is a different deal, they have been very hard to find for a lot of years and when they do surface they bring big $$$.

 

Dont put a S-10 rear in that car...sweet jesus...

 

What does the rolleyes mean exactly? Sorry this is off subject

 

Used a '74 Camaro 10 bolt under my '38 Ford pickup, frame is same dimensions as your '36.

 

Ford 8" inch would be my choice,Granada,Maverick or late 50 Ford 9". HRP

 

= "Are you fuckin' serious?"

 

or as mentioned a '57-'64 Chev rear.

Those S-10, Explorer, 10 bolt, etc and any other rear with a removable rear cover look like crap under an early car. Just sayin'

 

Rich and HRP
I agree wholeheartedly, but I thought I would respond to the post based on his request.
What reeeely F@$&'s up the looks of a cool open wheel car is using these type of rears.

 

Agree to that, their appearance on open wheel car is really terrible; but even on a fat fender car like a '36 where you can't see the rear too much, they still look bad.

I'm wanting to hear a little more defining info on his "5 lug ifs set up all the way around" and the "5 lug, 2 link setup".

 

And the gov-loc so-called "posi" that fits 7.5 10 bolt is a total POS. Cripes, they started out life under Vegas, and lemme tell you, back in the seventies, more than a few friends of mine made them say "uncle" in short order...

 

Fred, man, you said that better than I ever could have...I own an S-10, but mine has a Mopar 8 3/4 under it.
If a traditional hot rod is the plan, and you dont need a ton of strength, I would go with the tri-five rear. I bought mine at a swap meet last year for $75, and it has 4.11's in it...

 

I'm just sticking up for the S-10, Explorer, 10 bolt, etc and any other rear with a removable rear cover, crowd. Those rear ends have been recommended on this site and are an economical way for some guys to get their ride on the road. Just sayin'.

 

I wouldnt use the s-10 rear on a bet, the posi in them really is a horrible thing. I dont know why anyone would want to mess with an s10 rear, even in a mild street rod with pie-crusts, I'd always be wondering the next stomp of the pedal was the last. The exploder rear is a whole different deal, thats a good tough rear, and they are common as dirt, even if they are a little homely. But I pick up 9" ford and 8 3/4 mopar housings around here for $75-$100 all the time, I should take a photo under my deck, got 'em stacked up out there like cordwood.

 

Hmm...... I ran my S10 rear pretty hard and never had a problem. I might have been lucky. But I'm going Ford 9" this time around. I know the engine I'm having built wouldn't last in a S10.

 

My 37 has a 78 Malibu rear end under it.

 

You might skate by with a really light car with an automatic that spins the tires easy. I know a few other small-block S10 guys, and I spend a bit of time on S10racer.com and V8s10.org and most of the time, they spew pretty easy. Most low buck guys run the 8.8 exploder rear with two passenger side axles and the drivers side tube shortened. Its cheap, they come with 3.73's or 4.11's (most of the s10 guys are more performance oriented, so those ratios are considered a bonus), and most of them are limited slip. The so-called Gov-loc posi that fits the 7.5 and 7.625 10 bolt is a real POS. Most guys say its so unreliable, its not even worth installing. Most of the guys that do run the S10 rear just run it peg-leg, and they do it while they gather parts to do the 8.8 upgrade.

 

The G body cars used the same basic differential and the posi's I 've seen in them were clutch types without the G lock features. But maybe there were several types used...

 

Rear axle widths
These dimensions do not include brake drums and are measured from backing plate to backing plate. Actual wheel track could be as much as 6" to 8"depending on drum size:

• 46" to 47"
  • '66 to '77 Bronco

• 48" to 49"
  • '72 to '75 Datsun pickup
  • '71 Dodge Colt
  • '72 to '73 Mazda

• 50" to 51"
  • '73 to '76 A-Body Mopar
  • '65 AMC American
  • '58 to '60 Thunderbird

• 52" to 53"
  • '28 to '40 Ford
  • '57-'59 Ford and Edsel
  • '63-'69 Falcon/Comet
  • '63 to '65 Fairlane
  • '65 to '66 Mustang
  • '62 Buick Skylark
  • '67 to '70 Mustang/Cougar 6 cyl.
  • '71 to '74 Maverick/Comet
  • '71 to '72 Pinto
  • '68 to '69 AMX and Javelin
  • '63-'72 A-Body Mopar except 8 ¾" axle
  • '75 to '79 Granada/Monarch

• 54" to 55"
  • '39 to '48 Chevrolet
  • '41 to '48 Ford
  • '55 to '57 Chevrolet
  • '68 to '69 Fairlane
  • '67 to '70 Mustang/Cougar 8 cyl.
  • '62 to '70 B-body Mopar w/ 8 ¾" or 9 ¾" axle
  • '79 to'85 Toyota pickup
  • '68 to '72 Chevelle
  • '74 to '79 Mustang II/Pinto/Capri/Bobcat