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Best fix for “SBC hot starter solenoid” problem?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by side_valve, Jun 2, 2005.

  1. side_valve
    Joined: Sep 22, 2002
    Posts: 834

    side_valve
    Alliance Vendor

    Besides getting a different engine. I’m sure some of you have or had this problem with the SBC starter solenoid getting too hot and your car won’t start unless you use a screwdriver across the solenoid. I’ve heard of remote solenoid kits – any good? Pros? Cons? Which brand?
     
  2. marq
    Joined: Aug 22, 2003
    Posts: 1,423

    marq
    Member

    My fix was get an Exide mini starter then turn it up the other way so solonoid is away from the header and i have had no probs since although when i first got the mini starter i put it up the normal way with solonoid at the top and it wouldnt go when hot but after i turned it upside down that fixed it......Marq
     
  3. flatheadpete
    Joined: Oct 29, 2003
    Posts: 10,479

    flatheadpete
    Member
    from Burton, MI

    Any Ford remote solenoid will work. Mount it away from exhaust heat and it'll never happen again. Shouldn't have to pay more than $20 at any parts store for a solenoid. Gonna need some wiring done but once you get the part, it's pretty sef explanatory.
    Damn, look at that word I used!
     
  4. I've had good luck with those stainless steel double laminated heat shields. They're also cheap. Think I paid $10 a piece for them.

    The Moroso Performance shields are $20+ each. Don't see the price advantage.
     

  5. Deuce Roadster
    Joined: Sep 8, 2002
    Posts: 9,519

    Deuce Roadster
    Member Emeritus

  6. Thirdyfivepickup
    Joined: Nov 5, 2002
    Posts: 6,093

    Thirdyfivepickup
    Member

    Mr Gasket #6256 on the shelf at VSI. Remote solenoid kit.

    I'd do that before wrapping headers or using shields.

    mike
     
  7. ShortBus
    Joined: Dec 31, 1969
    Posts: 916

    ShortBus
    Member

    I replaced all my battery cables with welding cable. 6 years now with no problems.
     
    1934coupe likes this.
  8. DrJ
    Joined: Mar 3, 2001
    Posts: 9,419

    DrJ
    Member


    I'm with that...
    I just can't see the reasoning having a Ford solenoid to activate a GM solenoid to start the car. The GM solenoid still has to "work" in order to engage the starter gear and make the contact with the fields.
    So what does the Ford solenoid do besides the same thing the "big screwdriver" did?
     
  9. That's one of the reasons I went with the shield. And they're cheap and easy to install!

    Cured the hot starting problem on my Chev 454 C-30 rollback, '47 Ford Sedan delivery and others.
     
    1934coupe likes this.
  10. jerry
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 3,469

    jerry
    Member

    Easy mway.

    Run a #10 wire jumper from the 3/8 stud to the s terminal on the gm solenoid. Run a battery cable from the ford solenoid on the inner fender to the 3/8 stud on the gm solenoid. Run a battery cable from the battery to the ford solenoid. Switch the start wire from the gm solenoid to the s terminal on the ford solenoid. Done.

    This will give a full 12v to the gm solenoid when starting overcoming any heat soak problems. I have donre this on all my gm starters and have no trouble. A cheap solution for a heat soak problem.

    Summit kit does the same thing, for alot more money.


    jerry
     
    uncleandy 65 likes this.
  11. Gotgas
    Joined: Jul 22, 2004
    Posts: 7,175

    Gotgas
    Member
    from DFW USA

    Nothing.

    It does the same thing, except from six feet away and without you having to open the hood to stick your hand inside a hot header...
     
  12. tommy
    Joined: Mar 3, 2001
    Posts: 14,757

    tommy
    Member Emeritus

    Well after 2 starters, 2 new new solenoids and a heatshield to protect the solenoid, I moved the battery ground cable from a welded stud on the frame to a bolt in the tailshaft housing. Problem solved. It always started when cool but not at opperating temp. You'd swear it was the hot solenoid syndrome but it wasn't.

    If your battery ground does not go directly to the engine block or trans, move it so that it does. Eliminate as many mechanical connections in the battery cables as possible. Even added grounds from the frame to the engine are added sourses for resistance. I fought the problem for damn near a year so I understand your frustration and I'll never forget what fixed it for me.

    I still have one of the new solenoids (that didn't fix the problem) in my tool box. That was 25 years ago. I've never needed to use the new solenoid.
     
  13. ShortBus
    Joined: Dec 31, 1969
    Posts: 916

    ShortBus
    Member

    Yeah Tommy grounding to the engine is basic. You should have battery-to-engine AND engine-to-frame(body) grounds.

    The hot start problem lies with amperage. Normal battery cables don't provide enough amperage to turn it over when it's hot. I don't know for sure if it's the solenoid or the starter itself that needs the extra juice..

    You've seen your battery cables, about a hundred heavy wires in that bundle? More like 50. Welding cable has hundreds of tiny strands. When electrons travel down the wire, they travel along the surface of the wire, not through the middle of it. All those tiny strands of wire means more surface area for electrons to scoot along. This means more amperage.

    Use the cable made for stick welders, the welding supply house should also have the smaller lugs for the connection at the starter, etc. I spent about $20 (six years ago) to do mine. I got some solder-on battery terminals and soldered everything with Rosin Core and a propane torch.

    Mine still spins the same speed hot or cold.

    Also, you won't have that crappy Ford solenoid and its attendant wires bolted to your inner fender. :D
     
  14. pigpen
    Joined: Aug 30, 2004
    Posts: 1,624

    pigpen
    Member
    from TX USA

    If you use a kit like this, all you are doing is adding a relay to the circuit; another thing to go bad. You still have the original solonoid getting hot and sticking. These kits actually recommend that you replace the old solonoid as part of the process. I wonder why? Pure and utter voodoo magic; totally useless. The heat shield, a new solonoid, a good ground, and a hot battery with a good starter will do the trick. :)

    pigpen
     
  15. tommy
    Joined: Mar 3, 2001
    Posts: 14,757

    tommy
    Member Emeritus


    yes you need grounds from the engine to the body for the lights and accessories, but these grounds don't carry near the amperage that the battery cables do for a hot start. Starting a hot engine is the most severe condition that your electrical system must endure. Everything else is a piece of cake.
     
  16. Some good tips here... my 69 Chev shortbox had a 350 that started good cold; not when hot. I tried one of those Summit remote solinoids and insulated the starter; still had the problem. One day I checked my timing and found it to be way off (advanced ) ; set it to specs and never had another hot start type episode. Then removed the insulation and remote solenoid. No problems....just a thot.
     
  17. Scotch
    Joined: May 4, 2001
    Posts: 1,489

    Scotch
    Member

    I've made replacing the battery cables in any car I get a standard maneuver. I also like Powermaster starters, but that's me. The cables cure the hot start issues.

    Scotch~!
     
  18. flatheadpete
    Joined: Oct 29, 2003
    Posts: 10,479

    flatheadpete
    Member
    from Burton, MI

    Keeps your arm from tingling for a while.
     
  19. side_valve
    Joined: Sep 22, 2002
    Posts: 834

    side_valve
    Alliance Vendor

    Great feedback!!! many thanks.
     
  20. Rocket88
    Joined: Jul 11, 2001
    Posts: 912

    Rocket88
    Member

    You use a screw driver, that's what the dipstick is for!

    I'm with Tommy and Shortbus, good grounds and several of them are the key.
     
  21. Tutashen
    Joined: Aug 8, 2015
    Posts: 86

    Tutashen

    old thread people are still having the same problems though changing the cable heat shiels ,remote solinoid is all fine getting well made stuf is the hard part
     

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