Projects Best economic drive train build

Yeah. That's where i was and where i am. For sure. Now i know what i need to know.
I really am thankful for all the input.

 

Yeah, as mentioned above, i wasnt sure of what was available in the same era that would bolt up and be more readily available. Knowing now that anything cheaper in parts would require a lot of mods, i am going to hunt down another small block flathead 6 and build that. The engine now really does run great and the trans shift fantastically. I got really lucky on this car.

 

icar.ill be sure to keep posting as i move through the car and get her where I want her. Glad to find some folks in this forum that are a bit more accepting of not doing what everyone else is!

 

Yeah i only meant finding something that was pretty much a direct bolt on or just changing motor mounts or something. I surely didnt mean to modify the entire engine compartment and then switch back. I got her pinned down now though. I know where im going.

 

Gotcha. Thanks for the input.
Yeah, i was simply thinking physics here in examining how much fuel must be getting to each cylinder with this stock setup. In my mind i was considering how to spread that fuel around a bit. Obviously something like a screen in a v8 wouldnt really work in this setup so my thought was an dual carb intake, not just a dual carb set up that attaches to the intake... For some reason i was thinking i saw an intake somewhere with 2 carb mounts spread out nicely???
I will look into it more and see what i can come up with. I do appreciate the input and will refer back to this thread as I move forward as a reminder.
Thanks again!

 

Spreading the carbs does not address the issue, which is the configuration of the intake ports on the cylinder head. The cylinder head intake ports are three groups of two. Thus the front two cylinders are fed by the front carburetor (no problem), the back two cylinders are fed from the back carburetor (no problem); but the two center carbs are fed from both carbs, and there is interference in the A/F stream at the join of the two. Thus the two center cylinders will run leaner than the outer four.

Consider when you were a kid, throwing two rocks simultaneously into a pond. Once the splashes were over, a perfect round wake would grow in diameter, beginning from each splash site, until the wakes met; the wakes then broke up at the join, but were still perfect where the wakes did not join.

Going to a triple setup removes the join, and the cylinders are fed equally, assuming the operator uses solid linkage and does not attempt to use progressive linkage.

Obviously, there is no "right" or "wrong", but there is "better" or "worse", and each enthusiast makes his/her own choice.

Jon.

 

Johnny, don't know where you are located but I have a rebuildable 218 that was pretty much a daily driver until a valve broke. There is no head of manifolds but the rest of it is yours for free if you want to pick it up in the Dallas area.

 

Dang!!! That would have been awesome man! But thanks a million for the offer. Im in Pennsylvania though! Shucks!!!

 

Johnny, After reading thru your posts, why not rebuild the engine in the car. Is this a daily driver? I'd think a rering, polish the crank, new bearings, valve job would tighten things back up.

If you can fab/weld, a header or split intake with a flange for a commonly available carb would add a little kick and make carb kits easy to find.

 

It is my driver.
I think the drive train will make it quite a while longer as it is. I would like to engage my kids in the rebuild a little at a time on a stand and bench. That's probably the main reason in wanting to do it the way i am thinking. That and just really getting to know it.

 

But good to know that's a possibility. I have done many in frame rebuilds on international DT360 engines. I had wondered if there was room in these?

 

350 / 350, 8 or 9 in for about 2k and it's all new and ready to hit the road, any road.