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Projects Belly Tank Build UK

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by JamieUC, Jan 3, 2021.

  1. JamieUC
    Joined: Jul 8, 2013
    Posts: 152

    JamieUC
    Member
    from Swansea UK

    Nice A ...A....Avatar. yes that's the word I was after.:D:rolleyes:
     
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  2. THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER
    Joined: Jun 6, 2007
    Posts: 4,193

    THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER
    Member
    from FRENCHTOWN

    My buddy had a similar liquid/liquid cooling system for his dyno in his garage. (He ran the exhaust stack out the roof - in a housing subdivision!!)
     
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  3. Tman
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 36,094

    Tman
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    You may need more volume in that tank for ice as well.
     
  4. JamieUC
    Joined: Jul 8, 2013
    Posts: 152

    JamieUC
    Member
    from Swansea UK

    You may be right Tman, its only going to see short course action here in the UK so I'm hoping the water tank will be big enough, its got around ten gallon capacity beetween the heat exchanger and the main water tank. The water from the main tank is pumped through the heat exchanger with an electric pump, so should work quite well for a limited amount of time, not really going to know till I get some test runs in.
     
    Last edited: Dec 19, 2021
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  5. JamieUC
    Joined: Jul 8, 2013
    Posts: 152

    JamieUC
    Member
    from Swansea UK

    Had a day stripping it all down yesterday, looks like its about to get airbourn in this shot
    Tank111.jpg
    Welded together both my engine stands so I can swivel the chassis while finish welding and painting.
    Tank112.jpg
     
  6. hotcoupe
    Joined: Oct 3, 2007
    Posts: 520

    hotcoupe
    Member

    Looks terrific, what are the dimensions of the C channel?
    Thanx,
    Tom
     
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  7. JamieUC
    Joined: Jul 8, 2013
    Posts: 152

    JamieUC
    Member
    from Swansea UK

    Thanks Tom, C channel is 3 1/4" deep 1 3/4 wide and 0.200" thick its a metric size but thats a close translation to imperial.
     
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  8. Tman
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 36,094

    Tman
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    That should be fine. We use a simple bilge pump to move it
     
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  9. 32hotroddad
    Joined: Oct 31, 2012
    Posts: 7

    32hotroddad
    Member
    from Scotland

    Outstanding build, will be watching thread, hoping to make it to Pendine in May, hope you make it too.
     
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  10. roddering
    Joined: Feb 18, 2008
    Posts: 216

    roddering
    Member
    from Arizona

    You are a true ARTIST and show some amazing mastery!
     
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  11. Mart
    Joined: Mar 3, 2001
    Posts: 4,606

    Mart
    Member

    Excellent work, Jamie. All the gear and all the ideas for a change.
    Mart.
     
  12. JamieUC
    Joined: Jul 8, 2013
    Posts: 152

    JamieUC
    Member
    from Swansea UK

    Cheers Mart. Been meaning to ask what cutter your using in your boring bar, in your video I noticed its got a carbide insert, left hand lathe cutter? Ive never been very good at sharpening lathe tooling so the idea of inserts for my boring bar is apealing.
     
  13. THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER
    Joined: Jun 6, 2007
    Posts: 4,193

    THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER
    Member
    from FRENCHTOWN

    I was at a boring bar last night.
    Left alone
     
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  14. JamieUC
    Joined: Jul 8, 2013
    Posts: 152

    JamieUC
    Member
    from Swansea UK

    Hope you all had a good festive season and happy new year to you.
    Got a couple of days in at the workshop over the holidays, finished all the welding, about ten hours solid welding, got it in the paint both and shot it with some 2k satin black. Tank114.jpg

    Decided I needed more castor angle, the 36 front radius rods have about 7 degree built in, but thats not a lot for a straight line car so have pie cut the rods and realinged the spring perch to compensate. This should give me about 15 degrees of caster, still not a massive amount but should do the job.
    Tank115.jpg
    Also got to use my Delapina (uk version of Sunnen) hone for the first time since I rebuilt it last year, put new kingpin bushes in the font spindles and honed the bushing for a nice slip fit on the new king pins. Tank113.jpg
     
  15. PINEAPPLE
    Joined: Aug 26, 2012
    Posts: 335

    PINEAPPLE
    Member

    I've just read the whole thread. Fantastic skills and a great eye for what looks right! Progress for one years time is quite impressive as well. Bravo!
    Matt
     
  16. That all looks really good. The caster angle is about what i ended up with and for the speeds i will be getting with a Willys 4 that will be plenty, you should be able to go faster on a longer run. Looking forward to lots more progress as the push is on for May!! JW
     
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  17. JamieUC
    Joined: Jul 8, 2013
    Posts: 152

    JamieUC
    Member
    from Swansea UK

    Gota laugh at that:D
     
  18. Jacob O'Hara
    Joined: Nov 16, 2021
    Posts: 13

    Jacob O'Hara
    Member
    from Dorset, UK

    Some great engineering in this build, looking forward to possibly seeing it at Pendine!
     
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  19. JamieUC
    Joined: Jul 8, 2013
    Posts: 152

    JamieUC
    Member
    from Swansea UK

    Been in the paint booth again and painted the axles and all the bits so I can get it back as a rolling chassis in paint!, looking forward to putting it all back together.
    Tank117.jpg

    Also started putting the quick change together, first one I've done so lots of studying Vern Tardels how to quick change book and Youtube.
    First step was to machine the Ford pinion down to fit in the rear bearing cover, started turning with carbide insert but it was hard going and the shaft was coming out sort of hexagonal so finished up with a tool post grinder.
    Tank119.jpg

    This is a magnesium center section so I was a bit worried about using a tourch on it to warm the case and install the bearings, thought it might burst into flames, so used a couple of heat lamps instead, worked really well the pinion just slid in nicely with just a gentle tap to seat it.
    Tank116.jpg
    Pinion and lower shaft bearings in.
    Tank118.jpg
     
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  20. You have made and still making great progress, very cool. JW
     
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  21. Mart
    Joined: Mar 3, 2001
    Posts: 4,606

    Mart
    Member

    Jamie, will send you a pm.
     
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  22. JamieUC
    Joined: Jul 8, 2013
    Posts: 152

    JamieUC
    Member
    from Swansea UK

    More work on the quickchange this week, I think if there was a guinness book of records section for the most times a quick change has been assembled and disasembled during setup then I'd be a winner.

    Tank121.jpg
    Litle trick out of the Vern Tardel book, welding a bar in to remove bearing races with a slide hammer.
    New bearings going on the carrier.
    Tank120.jpg
    And after many many atempts fitting side bell shims and pinion shims I finally got the correct backlash, preloads and a nice contact pattern on the crown wheel. To say this stage was labour intensive would be a massive understatment.
    Tank122.jpg
     
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  23. Fabber McGee
    Joined: Nov 22, 2013
    Posts: 1,123

    Fabber McGee
    Member

    A bit more weld in the bearing cup and you won't need the slide hammer, it will fall out. Impressive car and fabrication.
     
  24. rottenleonard
    Joined: Nov 7, 2008
    Posts: 1,980

    rottenleonard
    Member

    I was going to say that too, quick tip from my high school auto shop teacher, just take the MIG welder and weld a bead all the way around the inside of the race and when it cools off it will fall out.
     
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  25. Fabber McGee
    Joined: Nov 22, 2013
    Posts: 1,123

    Fabber McGee
    Member

    Yeah, usually 3 or 4 spots an inch long is enough. doesn't take a lot. Only has to shrink a couple thousandths. I worked on earthmovers for many years. Surprising how many blind bearings there are with no way to get behind them.
     
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  26. DrJekyllMrHyde
    Joined: Dec 23, 2016
    Posts: 21

    DrJekyllMrHyde
    Member

     
  27. JamieUC
    Joined: Jul 8, 2013
    Posts: 152

    JamieUC
    Member
    from Swansea UK

    Finaly got the tank back on its wheels..
    Tank123.jpg
    Also started machine work on the engine, boring it out ready for big pistons
    Tank124.jpg
    Striped the steering box for a bit of inspection, fresh grease and adjustment, there's some pitting on the worm and sector but it adjusts up ok so will do for now.
    Tank125.jpg
    All back together and ready for a spot of paint.
    Tank126.jpg
     
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  28. Mart
    Joined: Mar 3, 2001
    Posts: 4,606

    Mart
    Member

    Nice work Jamie. Good to see another Buma in action, and I see you have the honing tool also. How cool is that?
    Mart.
     
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  29. If mine looks half that good in paint i will be happy...you must be very pleased with what you have built.:cool::cool::cool:What is the spacing between the two vertical pieces of the roll age behind the seat? JW
     
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  30. JamieUC
    Joined: Jul 8, 2013
    Posts: 152

    JamieUC
    Member
    from Swansea UK

    Thanks JW, spacing is about 4 1/2 to 5" between rear uprights, I think the spacing could vary a bit depending on your harness setup.
     
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