The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by JamieUC, Jan 3, 2021.
Awesome work! Keep it up!
Shifter and dash are very nice. You may need to sleeve some of those bores.
The big push is on. JW
Yep might have to wear my Kevlar trousers
Got the email too, was hoping to book my Chevy racer in, but after a reality check there are just too many things conspiring against me being able to get it onto the beach this time.
But I've no doubt you'll git er done in good time, so keep us posted and good luck..
My rear engine dragster had a net like a window net above my legs to keep them contained.
What size overbore did you decide on? I would say you could go at least 1/8" oversize (3 mm).
Yes I'm thinking just over 1/8, Ross do a piston for 3.342 bore and if I've got my maths right, taking into accout .010" wear already in the cylinders, that should give me a minimum wall thickness of about .100".
The thinest areas are all at the base of the cylinders so I think the engine will be fairly robust with this size bore...hopefully
Yes, SCTA requires some form of retention for arms and legs
Ross did some 3.342 pistons for a couple of flatheads for us. 3-5/16 + .030.
Absolutely awesome build.
knocked up a couple of pedals, gas and clutch, out of some 3mm aluminium and quite a few rivets.
All mounted and ready for some likage back to the engine bay.
They look the cats meow!! JW
Do you set those rivets by hand or use a press?
With an air rivet gun and a block of steel for a buck, its a bit hard work on the arms but does the job.
Thank you. That is a very novel way to create a "non-skid" surface.
Is a non-skid surface mandatory in pedals (like it is in some sanctioning racing organizations)?
I have created a mandatory non-skid surface by spacing little weld nuggets over the pedal and sanding the tops on a belt sander, but your solution is definitely classier.
Non skid is not a requirement but, don't want a foot slipping when I'm on the go pedal
Started work on the fuel tank this weekend, got my son to calculate the area and it should be between 3 1/2 to 4 gallon, hopefully that will be big enough.
Still got to fit a filler, breather and fuel line fittings, and finish the welding.
There will be a water tank in front of this, similar design but bigger that will feed a heat exchanger, for engine cooling, its all gonna be some what of a squeeze!
Very nice tank in a tank. JW
Bit more progress on the tanks in a tank rear one if fuel and the front is a water tank for engine cooling.
I should have taken a couple of pictures of the top skins being welded on as there was quite a combination or ratchet straps and clamps involved to get the curves to sit right.
The filler cap is from an aircraft surplus place in the States, got another one to go in the water/ice tank.
Turning up some coolant pipe, cutting barb ends on 1 5/8" pipe, this will supply cold water to the heat exchanger.
You continually impress me with what you make on this. JW
Thanks JW and like wise I'm enjoying and being inspired by your build thread.
Would be great to meet at Bonniville one day when both our tanks are finished. Would be a bit of a dream for me to get myself and tank to the States but as you say "Dreams dont come true unless you dream them"
That would be a blast!JW
Those tanks are a work of art ! This is one of the best belly tanks ever .
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