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Projects Belly Tank Build, NZ.

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by 26 T Ford RPU, May 3, 2021.

  1. OK, sorry that it has been four months since my last update but got busy with summer stuff and realized i was going to need to start finishing it off and was afraid of missing something i had not thought of or was just procrastination.... maybe both! Anyway i cut (1200 mm long)six strips of Ally and got them louvered in three sections on each, this will allow me to have them forward and rear facing, just need to learn how to glass them in. JW
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    Last edited: Mar 20, 2024
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  2. The37Kid
    Joined: Apr 30, 2004
    Posts: 31,393

    The37Kid
    Member

    Updated Avatar looks good, louvers will look nice on the car. Bob
     
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  3. Thanks for the update - we all know life has it's priorities - family first and passions later.
     
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  4. I was at a show/swap on 3-16 and was asked by an old friend if i could show it at a show in October, i said yes so now i ''need'' to work on it plus our local show again in November and also i just want it done so i can drive it. :cool::) JW
     
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  5. AndersF
    Joined: Feb 16, 2013
    Posts: 903

    AndersF
    Member

    Good to see you back on it.
    As usual i look forward to follow your progress.
     
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  6. I’m looking forward to seeing how you glass those in.

    However, have you thought of attaching them with screws/nuts & bolts/rivets so that they are removable? That way if you decide a certain position needs them forward facing, they can just be flipped.

    Glen.
     
  7. I have already worked out where they are going and i don't want them looking like an ad- on. Still working on how i will fasten them in place while glassing them on. I'm most likely over thinking it at this stage.:rolleyes: They will 1/3 facing forward and 2/3 facing rearward, if they all faced back you will end up with a low pressure inside. JW
     
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  8. Rearranged a few things in the workshop to give be a better work area and had a play with the louvers to get a visual on things. JW
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  9. And from the other end, the front one will be for air out for the drivers area as there are gaps around axle/tie rod will let air in. The engine bay will have a bit less for air in and twice as much for out. There will be a full fairing that will most likely have some in that as well. In the fairing i will have a shallow scoop on top just behind the roll cage that will direct air flow in front of the shrouded radiator hence the more air out louvers. I will work some into the lower section as we go. JW
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  10. I will start by cutting the top section into three parts, the center bit will be fixed, the front will be hinged at the front and the back will be lift off. The green tape is to give an idea of the cut lines. JW
    [​IMG]
     
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  11. JamieUC
    Joined: Jul 8, 2013
    Posts: 173

    JamieUC
    Member
    from Swansea UK

    I like the louvers, aesthetically I think all the same direction but I can see what your saying about letting air in as well as out.
     
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  12. krazee
    Joined: Nov 3, 2011
    Posts: 76

    krazee
    Member

    I've fitted stainless louvers to f/glass engine boxes in marine applications. I tig 3/16 threaded studs at each corner of the louver, router the gelcoat the thickness of the louver material x 2, drill the f/glass for the studs and bond using Simpson/Bostick Construction Adhesive. Sika works too but you must use the primers for a long term bond. Actually I've done it on the top of f/glass flares on a OSCA sports sedan to. I use nyloc nuts on the studs.
     
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  13. Good to know, thanks. JW
     
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  14. I do not have the knowledge to understand airflow over a body, but a thought from the limited stuff I do think I understand...
    The louvers next to the cockpit likely will create turbulence of air as it slips over the body. With the 'intake' louvers directly in line behind the 'exit' louvers, the turbulence may impact the amount of air that the 'intake' louvers grab, or intake. Might be a benefit to staggering them on the body.
     
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  15. loudbang
    Joined: Jul 23, 2013
    Posts: 40,322

    loudbang
    Member

    And you have to taking into consideration the "Boundary air layer" close to the surface like that is why the old prostockres started using the snorkel on the front of their hood scoops to get clear air above the flat hood surface. :)
     
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  16. I do understand clean and foul air and i have thought of what you say about staggering them when i sat them on there, was just my first visual of them, also you can't get the hot air out if you don't get air in. With a sealed firewall the engine bay will only will have the louvers to get air in and out. Its no 200 mph car but it still needs to work the same way. I want to have some on the lower body section too but this was just a start and there will be a lot of thought happening before i commit to it , I also need to be mindful of the modifications and mounting of the fairing on top. Cheers though.:) JW
     
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  17. Got myself all excited about cutting the body top in two, came up with a method of marking the cut line so it was straight, marked it and double checked and cut the back off. JW
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    Last edited: Apr 14, 2024
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  18. I worked out where the firewall was at the top and at the flange, measured back the amount for the seal flange plus a bit. Started at the top with a string line. A rafter square was placed on the flange and squared up on the bottom mark, the sting line then pulled against the square and pulled down to the flange and held in place with tape then followed with a pen. JW
    * the cockpit edge will be cleaned up soon.
    [​IMG]
     
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  19. We have separation and i can now easily check the firewall fit without removing the engine etc and climbing in there and having the top put on ....i don't fit in there very well. JW
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  20. Dave G in Gansevoort
    Joined: Mar 28, 2019
    Posts: 2,941

    Dave G in Gansevoort
    Member
    from Upstate NY

    Looks like a fug snit in there...
     
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  21. Looking good, they just don't look right without full body on.....

    J
     

    Attached Files:

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  22. AndersF
    Joined: Feb 16, 2013
    Posts: 903

    AndersF
    Member

    I dont have any real knowledge about wenting.
    But i would have them low or in the bottom of the body and another high or at the top.
    Like a woodstow to get a draft to cirkulate the air.
    I dont know if it works in reality but its just a idea i got.
     
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  23. That would be a type of Thermo Flow, but in a speed (or fairly quickish) situation the air will be scooped in by the forward facing louvers and pushed out the rear facing ones and with the air rushing over them on the outside that will create a low pressure like a Venturi. It's going be interesting and fun working it out, it's all been fun so far. JW
    Another pic just because.
    [​IMG]
     
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  24. Been thinking about a PCV for this thing so i got creative and bent up some 3/8 tube and pesto! Also bent up the fuel line while i was at it. JW
    [​IMG]
     
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  25. And the other side with the valve, it breaths from the valve/lifter gallery, filtered air will come in via the oil fill tube. JW
    [​IMG]
     
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  26. Made some little tabs to attach small P Clip to hold a length of 3/16 brake line that will have a cable in to remotely operate the fuel shut off valve at the back. JW
    [​IMG]
     
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  27. Harv
    Joined: Jan 16, 2008
    Posts: 1,136

    Harv
    Member
    from Sydney

    Looking good :)

    Does that connection to the lifter gallery have a baffle behind it to prevent the carb from siphoning up oil splash?

    Cheers,
    Harv
     
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  28. There will be soon, on my 37 Willys there is a road draught tube going down level with the oil pan and it never dripped oil but a baffle is going in. JW
     
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  29. Made some mounts for a floor and side panels, tacked the lower ones in place and will do the side soon, i made them heavier where i will be standing for in/out and where there will be a join. JW
    [​IMG]
     
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  30. Made some cardboard templates, will make these at work this week. I'm trying to finish all the mounting points for all the systems etc so i can pull it apart and paint the frame and finally start finishing it. The body work will be a whole other thing. JW
    [​IMG]
     
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