The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by 26 T Ford RPU, May 3, 2021.
Good advice. JW
Really enjoying this build thread. Plenty of time in lockdown to follow along.
Is a hydraulic throttle legal?
Yes they are, just reread the rule book and its mentioned in section 3.j. JW
Didn't NHRA outlaw those?
I have one like they use to run.
Thanks and glad you are enjoying it, been fun so far. JW
Rolled it outside again and sat the top on to get some perspective on what it will look like, cool! JW
Once i get the lower section cut to fit around axles etc and with its mounts done i can remove the three bits of box section tacked across the frame as these are my locator points to line up the lower piece to the frame. The body will sit about an inch lower. JW
I remembered following on a Belly Tank build seven years ago by Tony (Truckedup) so i checked it out and found he had done his shifter close to how i want to do mine.
I pulled my build down to the bare frame and put it on trestles to mount the seat then flip it over to mark axle cutouts as i have put references for them on the frame. Back to work at the end of lock down Wednesday so i can get materials to make body and seat mounts and other things. JW
Where are you sourcing the fireproof boots?, Ive been thinking the same for some of my linkage going through the firewall, but if I google fire proof boot I just get firemens boots
I pressume your fitting fire supression system as your building for Bonniville, I was checking out a fire supression system at the weekend on a friends belly tank, single tank with nozel in the cab area and one going to the engine compartment, nice and simple.
You will need more than one tank to run at Bonneville.
As for Fireproofing, 3m also makes firestop pass through collars as well as other companies
Here is an example from Hilti
I haven't worked out what i will use yet and i will have two fire bottles. May look into making two boots out of fire welding blanket material or something similar. JW
Had a look on our auction site here and found some fire resistant/proof cloth that has a melting point of 1,550*f. I hope this maybe a starting point for the shifter boots, even do each side in two layers. JW
Got busy on some brackets at work, m/cylinder and brake lever mount and tacked them in place when i got home, the clevis is from a 37 Willys and the push rod is just for show. JW
JW, I have a couple of those heim joints ill send ya if you want them.
PM me your snail mail address.
Thanks, Terry and you determined to have something fitted to this contraption. Post a pic of these joints and i will check it out. Oh and Mandy says Hi. JW
1/2 X 1/2 3of them.
Pm me a snail mail address I'll send them to AOTEAAROA.
Hi all, I am more into 60's and 70's cars but now have running gear and flathead with intention of building a belly tank racer so reading everything I can including this build log. Two queries, sorry if they are newbie questions:
i) If welding axle tubes to rear of frame i.e. solid mounted rear end, why do people use the rubber engine mounts (allowing a small amount of engine/box movement) as opposed to solidly mounting engine to the frame? Surely any small movement of the engine/box with essentially no propshaft and a rigidly fixed diff that cannot move puts a huge strain on the linkage to the diff as you now have no scope for up/down/lateral movement in your drive train - am I missing something obvious here or is it simply that it is all tough enough to take it?
ii) I know it was traditional to weld the rear frame to the back axle tubes inboard, each side of the diff. In the original car the weight would have been taken on the outer ends of the axle tubes via ends of a transverse spring. My question then is, did the axle tubes ever fail in these lakesters e.g. the lower studs pull out of the diff where the axle tubes were bolted on due to all the weight of the car now acting downwards on center of the axle assembly?
I used Ford V-8 mounts for the motor and gear box to remove any vibration and drone and the Willys motor and box are about half the weight of a Flatty 8 and with more gentle take offs than on a Drag Strip there would be little torque on the mounts from moving resistance. I bolted my Zephyr axle on and for side valve Bango rear the weight of the vehicle wasn't that heavy on the axles bells but that has changed a bit now with all the safety stuff now required . The amount of true distance these racers actually travel is very little in reality and i am sure that there were some failures over the years. JW
Got the radiator finished today. The outlet and drain cock have been swapped and of cause the custom outlet neck. Other things on the go, i stripped the frame and mounted upside down on the stands with the lower body clamped on so i can start fitting the body mounts and have made the seat mounts, its good to be able to sit in it without the seat fighting you. JW
Going away for a week isn't good for progress. I designed the basic fuel tank in a tapered hexagonal shape. Need to work out all the fittings as i want no rubber hoses between the fuel isolating valve and also the rollover valve/ vent. All going well i should have the tank finished in a week, have also made the body mounts to hold the lower half of the body to the chassis. JW
Put the fuel tank into position and was mostly good, it just hits on the two gussets so a little massaging should fix that. I will cut the the point off the to front point and make a flat piece for the filler and breather and make the mounts. JW
And a top view, the new body mounts can be seen also. Next will be looking at the roll cage and making MDF patterns that i can put together to make a dummy one first. JW
Fuel tank looks good, what grade/thickness aluminum did you use?
3mm for the ends and 2mm for the sides. Not sure of the grade, its what we use at work. JW
Edit, Ally sheet is foldable marine grade.
Got a bit more done on the gas tank, the small hole on the top is for the vent. I made a baffle inside to keep gas from splashing up the vent. One small issue is clearance on the chassis gussets so i will trim the tank back to give it more room. JW
Well it's easy to see what many have inhabited that fuel space back in the day a cycle tank...aluminum such a beautiful metal to work with...really looking good JW...
That tank looks good. Make sure you vent it according to the SCTA safety regs. Little stuff worth asking questions about.
Will do, it will have a roll over valve and be sealed to vent out of the vehicle. JW
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