Beautiful, well placed wiring. Picture thread.

Hahaha, Its easy to do but time consuming

 

...

 

From a technical point of view, NOT beauty, is this all a Roadster would need to get registered and drive around? I like the look of less wires, and less future problems. Bob

 

This thread is great. I'm about to do my first wiring job and I want to do it right and tight.

 

I saw your thread and brought it back up^^^

 

Damn that's fucking slick! Nice detailing on the sole kids and voltage regulators too!

 

I think this is the article you are talking about. Just read it the other day.

http://www.streetrodderweb.com/tech/1103sr_hot_rod_wiring/viewall.html

 

Thanks! Just what I need

 

I'm sure there are two schools of thought on running wires. Which do you think is a better method and why?:

1. Running the wires from the fuse block out to each component.
2. Running the wires from the component back to the fuse block.

I've read about wiring being done both ways and am wondering if there's any advantage of either method.

 

I'm sure there are two schools of thought on running wires. Which do you think is a better method and why?:

1. Running the wires from the fuse block out to each component.
2. Running the wires from the component back to the fuse block.

I've read about wiring being done both ways and am wondering if there's any advantage of either method.

 

I think it's easier to get cleaner more organized result using #1.

 

Four of them are for the turn signal/brake light circuit since the car has an original center brake light. I wanted to use the original center brake light, and have brake/turn signal function on the taillights. And the turn signals are pulsed with an electronic timing circuit instead of a regular flasher. The other relays control headlights, parking lights, interior lights, ignition, etc. so that the original switches only see about 70 milliamps of current when that circuit is energized. Plus there are spares there too, if I want to add something else later.
I admit, I went a little overboard with the wiring, but I'm a retired electrician/electronics technician, and I really like doing electrical panel work. Glad you liked it.

Wayne

 

Running from the fuse block out to the components results in a neater job, but it requires more planning for each circuit.

Running from the component to the fuse block is easier to think your way through the process. I always seem to end up with a mess at the fuse block when I do it this way, though.

 

A few years back (over 5??) Invention & Technology magazine (published by American Heritage) had a fine article on the art of lacing/looming wires. Several pics of WWII aircraft and wiring examples. Just the thing for a period car. I can't find the magazine and wrote a letter to the publisher with no results. Maybe check this again on their email address.

Could there be a industry or military manual or tech item on this? How else would those factory workers likely learn to do it?

Anyone remember this?

 

I like a clean simple system that is functional and above all else, safe. I have used the Deustch connection plugs as they offer up to a 16 pin and larger gauge wire terminals. I am also a big believer in crimp and solder and shrink as opposed to crimp only, but that may be a thread in itself! I also believe in researching fuse size and the use of relays, so many load problems are that in it self, not enough amperage delivery to fuel pumps, fans, etc will shorten thier life as well as shorten control switch life.
Here is a pic of a air boat console I did recently.

 

For me it works out best to start at the fuse panel and work out from there. It is like wiring your house. You start and the panel box and run to each area of the house. When you make your run to the dryer you use only the wire needed for that circuit. Easy as that.

 

bump this thread is great

 

I always seem to work just opposite way. I almost always start at the part I'm wiring and work in. Seems like everytime I go the oposite way I end up with a wire of two to short to go where I though they should. I do all my stuff from scratch and work in sub harnesses though.

 

I've built a few custom fishing poles from scratch and a lot of that lacing technique is the same as used when wrapping the "feet" on an "eye" of a pole.

 

Back in the 60s, I was a computer specialist in the Air Force, and we cable laced huge bundles of 20ga. wires into harnesses for those old computer systems that took up whole rooms. It's a relatively simple process, you just need to have everything laid out going where it needs to go. I've got three different spools of lacing cord right now, I got it from a couple different surplus outfits. I like the flat 1/16 black cord the best. One thing about it, though. If you leave something out and need to add more wires, you start all over. Good planning is very important.

 

I'm with you on the Take Out T. That wiring is perfect. Corey's is also spot on in my book. Here is a bit one of my guys did on a pickup we built. Single color cloth covered.

 

I admire the wiring jobs that are laid out like plumbing, with straight runs, right-angle turns, and all the wires running perfectly parallel and not twisted over each other, but my wiring, while relatively neat, never quite looks like that. In the interest of serviceability later on, I always leave a little extra slack where it might be necessary to drop an instrument cluster or component before unplugging everything.

Here's one I spotted at Andy's picnic (reunion) a few years ago, that I look at once in awhile just to make myself feel better. Actually, the guy who owned this car, was just kidding (whew!) with this cluster, and was advertising his wiring services to guys whose cars were wired like this.

 

I often do it on a piece of plywood first - it just depends how complicated the car is. A modern streetrod or protouring car has tons of wiring esp if the front end is on electric actuaters and you need to interlock them thru the door jam switch and the whole mess is remote controlled on a keyfob. projects like that i do outside the car and make sure i have all the wires in the harness then install the harnesses.
I like to use the NSA rated wire loom, black with white tracer. It just disappears when installed and i avoid tyewaps like the plague.
On traditionals i like to 'comb' the harness wires and lace with milspec waxed thread. I prefer the bare metal crimp ends and then heatshrink - i rarely solder - messy, slow and the solder joint is so rigid that i worry about it - i have never seen one break but i still worry.

 

Mine..

 

I like the "bracket race" mirror! Good stuff, looks like a nice car.

 

Wow!

 

a few of my rpu under seat

 

Now how am I supposed to wire my first car after seeing this kind of quality, I was already scared to death of it.

 

Here's a couple of shots of my main panel. This is on a swing -down frame that keeps everything out of the weather. There are three levels with the relays,fuse blocks and the EEC all competing for space. Hard to see ,but that orange thingy in pic 3 ,is a 20 pin connector for the entire gauge harness. These shots were during the final buildout,and we've neatened them up since then..

 

I do a lot of harness layout at work, all military applications. My designs go into satellites, armaments, black boxes, etc. Almost everything goes on a full-scale harness board from start to finish.

The key is to have a good "from-to" wire list, so you know where everything goes on both ends. I almost always wire everything from the most difficult-to-wire item, usually circular connectors with many wires.

Pre-wire other connection points if possible and bring them into the harnness layout. And always "buzz" out the whole thing before you start tying it up.

Bob