Register now to get rid of these ads!

Technical BC/CC Question

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by da dodge brother, Feb 16, 2016.

  1. da dodge brother
    Joined: Apr 2, 2010
    Posts: 382

    da dodge brother
    Member
    from wisconsin

    First off I am a painter for over 45 years. Used it all, Lacquer, synthol enamel, Acylic enamel, urethanes. Did a lot of custom painting with all of them. But I do have a question with the BC/CC urethanes. Instructions say base should be clearcoated within 24 hr's. I do know that there is a mid-coat clear that gives you up to 48 hr's from base to clear. BUT -- what is being done with some of these paint works that take longer to tape off the designs. Some of the paintworks we see must take a week or better to tape and prep, with all the colors that are used. This paint and clear today is very expensive and I'm sure a lot of garage painters would like to know what processes are being used for these multi colored paint jobs so they don't just go ahead and start taping and such over the base, wait to long, and have the clear start peeling after a short while. This new paint with the additives does not just dry, it chemically dries. If done wrong there will be problems. Might be a good discussion here ...
     
  2. chopolds
    Joined: Oct 22, 2001
    Posts: 5,816

    chopolds
    Member
    from howell, nj
    1. Kustom Painters

    I tackle these in 2 ways. If the graphic is simple (one or 2 colors, or a fade, like flames) but a lot of time is needed to tape, shoot and un-tape. Shoot your color, seal with mid coat clear, let dry, scuff it well, then do your graphics, and clear it as soon as it's unmasked. This way the only "window" you're concerned with is the one for your graphic's paint.
    If doing multiple colors/maskings, you will have to midcoat some of the colors, sand, and shoot the additional ones, until you are ready for clear. Just be sure to clear the colors, as you don't want to sand the basecoats, just like on a regular paint job.
    The other way is to use an adhesion promoter instead of sanding. Sometimes this can fail on you though, so I avoid this method unless really necessary.
     
  3. VOODOO ROD & CUSTOM
    Joined: Dec 27, 2009
    Posts: 1,230

    VOODOO ROD & CUSTOM
    Member

    What I do for long term tapeouts is just apply 1 to 2 coats of clearcoat to the basecoat instead of intercoat clear. Then wet sand with 800 and apply graphics, flames, etc... and then just clearcoat
    over top of the graphics, flames, etc... and you will have a great, long lasting, top quality finish.
    If you want an over the top job, you can 800 the whole vehicle after applying the clearcoat on top of the graphics and reapply a couple more coats of clearcoat on top of that. Cut and buff it and it will look like
    glass.

    Good luck,
    VR&C.
     
  4. I usually do multi-colour stuff like Voodoo Rod said with clear coat. It makes it easy to clean up any paint that ends up in the wrong place too.
     

Share This Page

Register now to get rid of these ads!

Archive

Copyright © 1995-2020 The Jalopy Journal: Steal our stuff, we'll kick your teeth in. Terms of Service. Privacy Policy.

Atomic Industry
Forum software by XenForo™ ©2010-2014 XenForo Ltd.