I have a pair (negative and positive) of 1/0 guage wires running from the rear of my 31 all the way up to the starter. The only thing i can come up with is this style clamp. I found some that will hold the 2 BIG 1/0 gauge wires together. I can tap, and bolt them to the inside of the boxed frame. I was just looking for some other ideas. Anyone make some better, sturdier wire hold down clamps?
I welded a tube in the frame and ran the cable inside of it. Had a truck that shorted a wire almost lost it years ago. I have been paranoid ever since
Those line clamps are fine, but there are also different types. Try McMaster for some... http://www.mcmaster.com/#double-line-cable-clamps/=2dnqit
When I build my chassis I weld 5/16 bolts (heads) to the rails for pos cable, brk, and wiring, fuel lines. And 3/8 near the engine area for a good ground. And another near battery box for same. I use the clamps you show. one up the other down. This way each bolt handles two things.
Yeah, what Carkiller said. Clamps are known as Adel clamps( after Alois Adel?) Using two clamps with one bolt / stud what ever is called "butterflying," common parctice in aviation.
Lose the long ground.. Go straight to the frame in the rear.. Run a good ground from the frame to the engine up front.. Ground the body at the same time.. Now you only have to deal with one big assed wire front to back...
On your Adel clamps...................Aluminum or steel clamps?................ I ask because the aluminum in the "clamp up" position, may be more prone to sagging with the weight of a cable that size...........with the vibration and bumps during use. The steel will fare better for the cable, but something that heavy would be better off "hanging".
On short cars like your A, I run the ground cable directly to the tailshaft housing on the trans. The shorter the cables the less power loss. The least amount of corrodable connections in the circuit will decrease the possibilities of problems in the future. I hassled with a problem for about a year until I moved the ground cable from a welded bolt on the frame to the tail housing. I know it can be done with multiple ground straps but they are potential corrosion points. You will need a small ground strap for the smaller circuits that ground through the body like all cars have. Others will disagree and say it's not necessary but I hated the hassle and it won't happen again. There is nothing more embarrassing to me than to have your car go click click click at the registration table of the rod run with everyone watching.
Maybe I'm wrong, but It was my understanding that running a ground from the battery to the bell housing provides a better ground, then just running it right to the frame out back...since copper is ten times the conductor as steel...
You are correct - had problems with the trunk mounted battery in my Duster until I ran the ground right to the engine block, problem solved.
My model A build I had no room up front. Second I was worried about weight. I used welding cable for my power I grounded to the frame and then to the block. My 2 cents
Let me elaborate - on a daily driven car (rain snow salt etc) one less ground point to fuck up is a good thing. You seem a bit angry, are you sleeping okay?
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