Hey all... I just finished installing a 1980 350 into a 1949 chevy and was wondering if I could use this simple wiring diagram in place of the rotten and disintigrating cloth wrapped wiring i completely removed from the car. The only difference would be that the voltage regulator is built in to the 1980 alternator. Would i run the hot to the fuse box from the horn relay then? Here is the pic and the simple system id like to use. Any help appreciated. Underhood to fuse box question only.
You can run it to a battery source, fusebox or battery. Are you taking the original voltage regulator out?
Your horn relay should have three wires: battery, horn and ground (horn contact in column is the ground). Normally the original VR 12v battery wire is the junction point for 12 v battery source for under the hood and 12v for the fuse box
Yes and upgrading for 1980 voltage reg built into starter. The original vr was toast. If necessary i could buy an older alternator and put a voltage reg back in???
I have a horn relay here on my table.... It has 3 posts. Yes. So the 12 v source off of the horn relay is for underhood accessories? Lights?
Yes you can put an early alternator in and use your external regulator , but I would suggest a later model 1 wire for simplicity and higher amp ratings.
I'm confused. If your going to rewire the car, why not follow the instructions in the wiring kit you buy? But a wire from the alternator to the starter will be fine. Your alternator has the regulator inside it. Be sure to fuse the charge wire are use a fuse link at the starter. I would use at least a 10 ga. Wire. Hope this helps.
Im not buying a wiring kit... i am paring down the 1980 outrageously complex harness and using the main stuff... i am using a newer ignition switch because the old pushbutton was corroded and useless... Im also using a new headlight switch and a 6 terminal fuse box. Flasher will be inline off of one of the old school steering shaft clamp on turn signal boxes. I want this as simple as pie. All wiring past the dash is coming out of the 1980 van except for wiper wires, (leaving vacuum) and gauge wires... (New gauge set) no a/c for now either.
I don't know of any regulator built into a starter? I know some alternators are internally regulated, and your diagram appears to be for a GM one wire alternator.
I dont think anyone here mentioned a regulator built into a starter???? The regulator on a 1980 system is in the alternator.
Post #4 mentions regulater built in to starter. No problem. Beer induced typo. Other than that. Looks good to go. If it where me I'd spend a couple bucks on a new harness. Your patching in 35 year old Wires in to a 65 year old car and remaining harness. I think you'll be much happier in the long run with a new harness.
Im starting to think you are probably right. Aaah... I see the typo. I love beer. My apologies to 1971BB.
Ditch that wiring diagram and find a simple one that runs an internal regulator. This should work but you have to study it close. A guy on another forum drew it up to answer a similar question. It should give you a good idea of how to run the wires you have and what wires you need. You don't need to change alternators to either an external or one wire unit. Why spend money to replace something that works fine and you can replace at any parts house in the US that sells parts for American cars? The old rotten cloth covered wiring is good for one thing and that is catching fire. The new replacement cloth covered stuff would be different if you were shooting for a period correct build but the old stuff will give problems when it's already bad.
I recently finished a 12V conversion on a 48 Studebaker where the customer wanted to keep as much of the original wiring as we could. It was all bare in places, and by the time I fixed all the potential shorts under the dash etc., I wish I had insisted on rewiring it completely with one of the basic wiring harnesses offered by several vendors. We have a company right here on the HAMB (Rebel Wire) that I'm sure would supply just what you need. I think you'd be glad you did later on.
I'm rewiring my 51' Chevy with a Rebel Wire harness. I've never done anything like that but am excited to give it a try. I have the original headlight switch but while looking at repops I noticed they were designated 6v or 12v... my car has been converted to 12v so can I even use the original switch or will I need a new 12v one...?
Six volt stuff must handle 2x the amps as 12 so a 6v switch will work ok. I think the diagram the OP posted is an old school 6v one . They used the horn relay as a junction block.
I pulled the harness out of an '89 Suburban, with TBI. I don't see what's so complicated about them, especially if you factor in a 1980 with no computer controls to speak of. It should be super basic, and modular in sections at that.
It should be fairly easy to find a basic wiring diagram on line, I lifted this one from http://www.how-to-build-hotrods.com/power-circuit.html. LOts of good info there and a good primer for the less experienced. I always keep a good supply of wire, connectors, shrink tube, cable ties, etc. on hand and do my own wiring. It is fairly easy and straight forward once you get the layout. This way you can run it how you want it and not be constrained by the precut lengths provided by an after market kit. Go for it dude, YOU CAN DO IT.
styleliner, speedway sells a book how to wire a streetrod for 7. 99. great book even if you use a wiring harness from rebel or anyone else. easy to understand book.
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