Hello, looking for info on setting Holley 94s on a banger engine. Just picked up a duel intake to run 94s Looking for carb settings for initial start? 1, do you use one carb as a primary or tune both together always 2, idea on main jet size for a mild touring engine? 3, power valve 4.5 or standard, on a banger does it matter as much? 4, for first engine start, can I just block off one carb? Can you set up the second carb using the Vintage Speed secondary carb base completely removing the the need to adjust the mixture on the secondary? Both engine ports do share the same mixture pool in the manifold. Have researched this but not much is written on setting up more than one carb.
You cant run a Primary/secondary setup if the carbs are on each end of the intake. Running on 1 carb will make 2 cylinders run lean that way. 2 94s on 4cyl that gotta be a bad ass engine
Rich, consider asking this question on the Banger thread, might have a better chance of getting the answers you are after. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/june-2015-banger-meet-cruising-time.977664/page-5
I've been hassling Colin a lot lately for other issues, was going to give him a break still might convert it to run 2 single barrel stromberg carbs from a early Holden with homemade adaptors. Yes the 94s are overkill especially on a mild build but do look good
Always give model of carburetor, which is cast in left side of bowl. "94" represents quite a number of slightly different models made over 20 years, and also a LOT of close relatives that are not even 94 sized...some of those made into the 1970's for absurd applications! For a normal Ford 94 from the '37-51 period...most came with 50 or 51 jets. With short, simple manifolding maybe 49 or 50 would be good starting point. Pay a lot of attention to cleaning idle passages and idle and off-idle holes in car, as you will be running on those circuits a lot of the time. Clean the tiny bleed holes in the nozzle bars. Go to low number on PV as you aren't going to have much vacuum once you start to go! NO NO NO on stupid "secondary" base, for reasons already given above AND because engines, especially small ones with lots of carb, spend a LOT of their running time on the idle and off-idle circuits that are discarded on these pieces of junk! Float level at Ford spec...this is a bit high for most uses, but I am opining that that might help get main circuit through jets activated a bit earlier on this over-carbed setup! Hot Rod aircleaners are often problems; tune the thing with no cleaners, once it is going well put them on and if anything changes you will know that those air cleaners are junk. Run both carbs. You need to work to get both carbs to work with consistent very small opening at idle: Remove bases, hold up to light. You will likely see light showing around the butterfly plates and different opening on each. VERY slightly back off the screws through carb shaft, just enough to loosen plates, not enough to fubar the staking. Shake, prod, and curse* at the plates until they reach positions where all fully close with no light coming through. Put your carbs back together, mount on engine with linkage disconnected. Turn idle speed screw in for slight opening and fire up engine. Fiddle with speed screw (you will need to readjust mix as well as you fiddle with the speed) until you have both carbs very slightly open and you can get engine down to a decent idle. Then attach linkage carefully so it does not move your idle speed. Try to keep it under 140 until engine is run in... *If you can find an experienced Sergeant Major to help, this can be accomplished entirely with the cursing.
What Bruce said and it is a secret You need to get two 'matched' 94's I run two 94's on a OHV banger. They open in tandem I gave up and got adjustable main jets Take your manifold vacuum at idle and go about 1/2 of that for the PV as a good starting place. I believe that I am running 7 PV and it is a little rich at the altitude but works with out a stumble on fast throttle opening Have extra gaskets on hand for set up and get the proper power valves(ones with out the radius, or radius removed) so they will seat properly in the carb body. Spoke with Doug in customer service at Mac's to make sure they wouldn't sic their copyright Nazis on me for posting a page from their catalogue. He said they can help with parts Also keep in mind that the Holly 94 series carb was also used on the likes of IHC light truck engines too Good luck
Thank you Bruce and Winduptoy, I have a spare base, will be ordering a new oversize throttle shaft and butterfly's. I don't have a matching 94, one is a 2100 that has holley on the bowl and different style tubes in the throat. I'm talking to a few local Hamb contacts about finding a carb but will still rebuild one of my carb bases as a start.
If you want the 94s and want one barrel block of one in each carb.... You need to block mainjet and acc pump nossle...leave a tiny passage in bottom of throatblockplate so any leftover fuel can go that way...should work ? Might be some downsides i havent thought of....just thinking out loud.
Was going to go for 97s but after playing with a few 94s now I kind of like them Just like tuning the later 2300 series and 4V carbs. Can try stagger jetting the mains as well, done that before on a Holley 350
workin on a 29rpu 2 94 fords and ansen intake malory duel pionts slinger,juice brakes,all 29 rusty henry steel.working on f1 steering now
Rstr28. Sounds a lot like my build, I have F1 steering spindles and arms modified to clear a 33 axle, unfortunately stuck with original 7 tooth box. The Ansen intake looks identical to the Zenith I have.
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