Register now to get rid of these ads!

Bare metal or just shoot a 2k sealer

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by swaluda, Oct 30, 2012.

  1. swaluda
    Joined: Oct 12, 2012
    Posts: 127

    swaluda
    Member
    from pa.

    I sandblasted my 50 Plymouth. Seems there were 2 different primers on there. The first coat they put on was a light grey color and it appears they shot a red type primer over that. The paint was all original from Plymouth. My question is can i shoot a primer sealer over the existing metal which now consists of bare metal, grey primer and some blotches of the red type primer? Hoping i dont need to completely strip to bare metal, yet, I want a profesional job done here. The finish will be a metalflake color...Thanks, Stan
     
  2. Bill Rinaldi
    Joined: Mar 23, 2006
    Posts: 1,831

    Bill Rinaldi
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    If the whole car is stripped to bare metal the most important thing is to shoot it a good quality etching primer to prevent flash rust and further surface rust. BILL RINALDI
     
  3. VOODOO ROD & CUSTOM
    Joined: Dec 27, 2009
    Posts: 1,237

    VOODOO ROD & CUSTOM
    Member

    Strip it to Bare Metal and them Epoxy Prime the Bare Metal.

    VR&C.
     
  4. id take it down to bare metal too.
     

  5. Bugguts
    Joined: Aug 13, 2011
    Posts: 701

    Bugguts
    Member

    Bare metal =professional .
     
  6. flamedabone
    Joined: Aug 3, 2001
    Posts: 4,898

    flamedabone
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Some etching primer can not have filler over it. Ask your paint store BEFORE you choose your primer.

    For what it is worth, I would strip the entire car to bare metal without question, then do any filler work on top of bare metal that has been sanded to no finer than 80 grit. I like 40, maybe 60 grit bare metal to give something for the filler to bond with.

    Then when your bondo is as perfect as you can get it and sanded to 220, use a direct to metal 2 part epoxy filler primer. Not all filler primers are direct to metal Make SURE and ask your paint store guy. At this point, your car will at least be one color again, so take a well deserved day off.

    Next, sand your guide coated filler primer with 120 with the longest board you can fit in the area untill it is as close as it can be with that round of primer. Fill any pinholes or scratchy spots with Bondo at this time, don't rely on filler primer or glazing putty for this.

    Then, do another round of 2 part epoxy filler primer and guide coat sand to 120 again. Then guide coat the car again and do 240 or so. Any finer than that and you are polishing wavy spots and the car isn't getting straighter.

    Now for your third round of filler primer....Guidecoat sand with 220, then 400 then 600 if this is to be your last round of primer. At this point, the car should be reeeeally straight and you can wipe it with water to check for and wavy spots. (the primer is basicly plastic, so it can get wet. Don't get crazy, just wipe a spot and check it for reflection.)

    Shiny black gets one more round of primer and blocking, but you should be able to stop after three. Choose weather you want to use a sealer or not before your color. Discuss the pros and cons with your paint guy.

    That was waaaay more answer than what you wanted, but once I started, I couldn't stop...

    Good luck, -Abone.
     
  7. flamedabone
    Joined: Aug 3, 2001
    Posts: 4,898

    flamedabone
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    One more thing...it is hard to trust someones paint advise unless you have seen their work.

    [​IMG]

    BUT, don't take my advise as gospel just by looking at my reasonably straight quarter panel....Ask around to a bunch of diffrent guys, particularly the guys who work at paint stores or body shops and do this stuff everyday. Listen to what they have to say then try to make an informed decision and if you are lucky, you won't have to learn the hard way.

    Good luck and post lots of pics. -Abone.
     
  8. Sting Ray
    Joined: Mar 24, 2012
    Posts: 980

    Sting Ray
    Member

    Wow, yeah, what he said ^, flamedabone, I would add that when your in bare ass, treat it first with some OSPHO and then apply any filler over it.

    Anytime you hit bare metal the flash is immediate, that stuff will
    seal it and turn anything to iron oxide.
     
  9. zman
    Joined: Apr 2, 2001
    Posts: 16,555

    zman
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Garner, NC


    That's what I do, I'm a big fan of HOK's Epoxy primer.
     
  10. evilone0528
    Joined: Jul 26, 2006
    Posts: 539

    evilone0528
    Member

    As a paint and body professional for over 15 years,my advice is to strip the car to bare metal and prime it with epoxy primer.Do your body work over that,tyhen prime with a high build 2k primer.prep and top coat over that.JMO.Hope it helps.

    EVIL
     
  11. evilone0528
    Joined: Jul 26, 2006
    Posts: 539

    evilone0528
    Member

    Souther Polyurathane Inc makes a good one too.
     
  12. jw johnston
    Joined: Oct 16, 2011
    Posts: 106

    jw johnston
    Member

    Metal prep and epoxy prime asap! I like ppg's line of epoxy and metal prep but thats just a personal preferance. Dont let it get ahead of you cuz that car will flash rust in no time.
     
  13. jw johnston
    Joined: Oct 16, 2011
    Posts: 106

    jw johnston
    Member

    Sorry didnt read that completely, i thought the car was already balsted. Either way dont let bare metal be bare for too long.
     
  14. jimbousman
    Joined: Jul 24, 2008
    Posts: 543

    jimbousman
    Member

    .....and the reason you strip it bare is because:
    A) You've gone this far why not go all the way.
    B) Paints have come a long way since 1950. The new stuff is better. (...and a hell of a lot more expensive)
    C) The new paint systems are compatible with the new paint systems. New over old is asking for trouble.
    D) Because if I have to do it then damn it, everyone else has to too.
     
  15. blackrd
    Joined: Feb 6, 2007
    Posts: 34

    blackrd
    Member
    from Illinoize

    I dont think most use etching primerfor anything but aluminum nowadays.
    I would get it clean with an eastwood disc, bump up and planish close to finish as I could, fill where necessary, get it real close. then epoxy prime, follow flamedabone's blocking procedure, then seal.
    if your body is kinda rough, shoot it with polyester primer, there is a bunch of diffrent brands on the market. evercoat slicksand is one. If your shooting poly's, you need a nozzle of at least 1.8mm, if its real heavy like glasurit poly, you would need 2.2 or bigger if available.
    Asking about bodywork/priming/painting, you will get all diffrent opinions and answer's, none necessarily wrong, guys all come up with diffrent ways of doing things that have worked for them in the past.
    Look up some of kosmoski's videos on youtube (HoK)
     
  16. swaluda
    Joined: Oct 12, 2012
    Posts: 127

    swaluda
    Member
    from pa.

    Well, Looks like bare metal it is, a little elbow grease isnt a problem. Thanks guys for all your input. I have good direction now and the final product will be well worth. I'll post some pictures as progress allows.....Thanks again.... Stan in NE Pa.
     

Share This Page

Register now to get rid of these ads!

Archive

Copyright © 1995-2021 The Jalopy Journal: Steal our stuff, we'll kick your teeth in. Terms of Service. Privacy Policy.

Atomic Industry
Forum software by XenForo™ ©2010-2014 XenForo Ltd.