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Banjo rearend

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by 1oldtimer, Aug 19, 2012.

  1. Anyone happen to know the flange bolt spread on a 40-48 banjo. It looks pretty square.

    Thanks.
     
  2. pasadenahotrod
    Joined: Feb 13, 2007
    Posts: 11,775

    pasadenahotrod
    Member
    from Texas

    The flange bolt spread is the same on all axle housings from 28-48.
    Same as any 37-48 brake backing plate and any 37-41 or 42-48 spindle flange.
    Don't have any handy this moment to give you the figures but any old Ford owner should have the pieces to measure... this means you.
     
  3. Yea, I was just wondering from my computer if anyone had it on the top of there head. I'll hobble out to the garage tomorrow night and look, the leg is a little jacked this weekend :).
     
  4. pasadenahotrod
    Joined: Feb 13, 2007
    Posts: 11,775

    pasadenahotrod
    Member
    from Texas

    I have the same problem, helped the daughter move out of town this weekend and am a little weaked out.
     

  5. Shaggy
    Joined: Mar 6, 2003
    Posts: 5,207

    Shaggy
    Member
    from Sultan, WA

    3/4 tons up to atleast '52 are the same pattern too
     
  6. Koz
    Joined: May 5, 2008
    Posts: 2,703

    Koz
    Member

    The flange holes are 3 5/16", square, center to center, 1/2" bolts, same front and rear. Is that what you were looking for?
     
  7. That's it, thanks.
     
  8. Ok, another question since I don't have a banjo rear here at the house. Does anyone know what the axle flange off set is on a banjo?, the distance from the outside of the hub to the axle bell flange (where the backing plate bolts to).
     
  9. Koz
    Joined: May 5, 2008
    Posts: 2,703

    Koz
    Member

    It depends on what hubs your using. The '40 and earlier ones are different than the '46-'48 style hubs.
     
  10. I'm learning a lot listening to this, so if anyone wants to kick in some pictures / diagrams, I'd appreciate it!
     
  11. Koz
    Joined: May 5, 2008
    Posts: 2,703

    Koz
    Member

    I measured up the four I have in the shop and each is slightly different. They range between 3 1/4" to 3 5/16", flange to hub face where the drum goes on. I think the variation might be in how good a condition the axles are in as the pulls over the taper and a very slight variation in taper size could account for the difference. The '36 rear I have is the shortest at 3 1/4", and a '40 is the longest at 3 5/16" with some '46-48' rears measuring in somewhere between.

    Boy, that helped a lot! Clear as mud.
     
  12. 117harv
    Joined: Nov 12, 2009
    Posts: 6,589

    117harv
    Member

    I posted these on another thread but again can't hurt, you will have to double click to read them. Not what the OP wanted but this info is good to have.
     

    Attached Files:

  13. Koz
    Joined: May 5, 2008
    Posts: 2,703

    Koz
    Member

    Still my favorite rear ever. They can be built reliable as all hell if you are a little careful.

    I'm curious as to what our up to 1oldtimer? Sounds like you might be sourcing some odd brakes or something.
     
  14. Sorry, been sick and off the computer for a few days. Fun few weeks, I got sick (flu) for the first time in about 5 years and found out I'm allergic to things way smaller then me (bee's, mosquito's), by whatever appendage they sting/bite swells to 4 times it's normal size.......it really sucks getting older.


    Anyway, I'm in the deciding stages. Not 100% traditional but I bought a '28 Tudor in June it has a Pinto 2.0, C4 and an Isuzu disc brake rear. I want to drive it now as I'm working on other cars, but want to change the rear (it has '39 drum in front). I have a '46 open banjo of unknown condition and have access to a 9"....oh and I'm sticking with the '35 wire wheels it has on it. I need to think of the future when I build the rear (I have a 322 nailhead, flathead or ???). If I go with the 9" then the backing plates have to be modified, if I go with the '46 truck it might be too wide. I haven't posted pics as of yet so here's one, I've got some shiney stuff to replace the semi flat black parts like the grill, tail light, headlights and bumpers all original older chrome stuff.....and I'm going to paint the wheels another color.
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Aug 24, 2012
  15. Rem
    Joined: Mar 6, 2006
    Posts: 1,257

    Rem
    Member

    '42-'47 car rear ends are the widest of the torque tube style banjos, and can put the wheels out towards the edge of the fenders - on the right car that might help the look, but might be problematic on a very low car. If '46 commercial rear ends are the same width as passenger ones then you might be OK (assuming you don't mean 'big' truck). They're still only a couple or so inches wider than the earlier ones but it could be a make-or-brake issue :)
     
  16. The 1/16" variance should be taken up by the backing plate lip into the drum, if not I can shave the lip a little.

    Thanks Koz
     
  17. It's the 1/2 ton rear, you can see by the picture that the rear is wide now (tires are close to the fender) because it has wheel adapters on it. I haven't measured it with the wheels off yet as I'm working on the front part now (angled driveway means one side at a time).
     
    Last edited: Aug 24, 2012
  18. 333Stu
    Joined: Nov 19, 2009
    Posts: 103

    333Stu
    Member
    from MinneColda

    I just bought a 40 ford banjo for my next project. Great read. Learned alot of great information from this discussion. Thanks for the pics on that article too 117HARV! Saved them for future reference.
     
  19. 1929CDAN
    Joined: Mar 18, 2006
    Posts: 349

    1929CDAN
    Member



    Hey 117harv you couldn`t figure out how to click on these and read them when I originally posted then last year now your taking credit for them?
     

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