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Bangin' in the New Year - The January BANGER meet is now open

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Wildfire, Jan 1, 2009.

  1. Wildfire
    Joined: Apr 23, 2006
    Posts: 827


    Wow - first one I ever got to start

    Here's pics of my chassis - just have to finish the body now!!!

    Attached Files:

  2. Thats too bad, It looks like you were making good progress. So close, But so far away. Huh?
  3. A-zonie
    Joined: Oct 30, 2006
    Posts: 120

    from Mesa, AZ

    Happy New Year to the banger group. Thoroughly enjoy the monthly meetings and look forward to lots more interesting discussion in 2009.
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  4. Cris
    Joined: Jan 3, 2005
    Posts: 805

    from Vermont

    Happy New Year's.


  5. CoalTownKid
    Joined: Mar 12, 2005
    Posts: 2,024


    Aw man,... I've been ther done that myself. Stick with it bud! If not you may never finish it. What was it, to much to fast? I had sold a truck years ago because it had a lot of lousy memories attached to it,....great truck, but everytime I looked at it,..well you know.

    Happy New Years to the Banger Boys!
  6. phlip
    Joined: Jan 8, 2007
    Posts: 185


    Looks good Wildfire!
  7. An Alexander!!! Post some more pics, please. PM'd you.
  8. Happy new years guys. Hoping to have my radiator back from being repaird next week, so I can continue to tinker :D
  9. Flat Ernie
    Joined: Jun 5, 2002
    Posts: 8,410

    Flat Ernie
    Tech Editor

    Nothing much to report - hope to get a few more things done in the New Year.

    Did manage to shake some acid around in my gas tank, but haven't finished the process of cleaning yet - hope to get it done & remounted this weekend.
  10. easyrider47
    Joined: May 7, 2004
    Posts: 598


    Hey Chopped50Ford...Ho0w big of job was it to chop the top frame on that roadster of yours. Lookin to do the same thing on mine this spring.
  11. merry vodka damn!
  12. Wow, now thats a thread title. Wildfire, can you post some pics of how you mounted the e brake lever?
  13. Yeah, im so close, just need to sand the primer then paint. I do want to finish it, the darn chassis is DONE. I just cant push myself to touch it. :( Ill get back into the groove with it sure :)
  14. thinks we needs some speedster pics...

  15. i like mine minimalist, minus the silly skull.

    Last edited: Jan 2, 2009
  16. less is more, simple is good...

  17. Hi guys! We got the bellhosing done a couple weeks ago... but here's an update...

    The neat thing about living in a town like Livermore is that there are a BUNCH of retired machinists who have mills at their houses. Sp special thanks to Ivan, a retired machinist who helped Tim and I out on this project!

    The first thing we did when we decided to run a GM trans behind the banger motor in our Bonneville car was plot the position of the flywheel surface to the bellhosing mounting surface on the SBC... Tim did a lot of technical drawing on this part... as he was a draftsman for years at the lab.

    With that in hand, we bolted up a flathead flywheel to one of the banger motors I have lying around, and claculated how THICK of an apaptor we would need.

    I got the idea after I saw the adaptor that Fabian had made for putting the banger motor in his streamliner. The concept it easy: Make something that makes the back of the banger motor look like a "common as dirt" Chevy engine.

    My neighbor Brian who races IMCA modifieds gave us an old Chevy scattershield he had lying around.


    So after figuring out the two flywheel surfaces, we knew we would need to make an adaptor that was 2" thick. With that in hand, I cut the bellhousing a little more than 1 1/2" inches thick. It's 1 1/2" thick because the motor plate is 1/4" thick aluminum and the plate we are going to end up welding onto this adaptor and then bolting to the motor is also 1/4" thick.

    Here's the cuttin'



    After getting it cut out... I ground it down a bit and Tim and I took it to Ivan to have him mill it down to our desired thickness. Here it is all machined up flat.


    Incidentally, I misscalculated our thickness by 1/8". I originally thought I had bought a 3/8" thick piece of alumnum for the firewall/motor plate... because it was going to be a part of the adaptor. So, the trans is going to end up being 1/8" closer to the clutch than normal... not a problem, as we are going to use a hydraulic throw out bearing.

    With the "ring" machined... Tim mocked it up so we could figure out how much of the 1/4" plate to cut out.


    The banger motor has two mounting tab/bolt holes up higher than "the ring"... so, we had to plot those out on the steel plate with a tab that would accomodate them.


    Here we cut the plate out with the plasma:




    This piece is going to get thrown away... but it was such a good picture of me, I thought I'd include it. ;D
    Last edited: Jan 3, 2009
  18. Back to the build...

    With the piece cut out, Tim got to grinding...


    This is how the "plate" will fit on the "ring".


    Tim then filed it all down... and I beveled it with the grinder for a nice weld.

    Welding it on... we bolted it to a Chevy engine block so it wouldn't move. I skipped around to keep the heat even around the thing:


    All welded up and ready to go back to Ivan for some more machining


    We checked it out and it sagged about .016 in the middle...


    Tim got the blue prints for both the Chevy motor and the Banger motor and did a real nice 1/1 drawing to make sure we weren't missing anything before we had it machined.

    Basically we just needed to know the Chevy dowel pin holes in the "ring" so Ivan could zero out the mill. Then with the banger motor crank to dowel pin hole measurements Ivan could pop the holes in the "plate" for the Ford dowel pins... (you just work backwards from dowel pins to crank center line to crank center line to dowel pins. This will get us as close as the factory, then we will index it in when we get it on our race motor.

    Chevy dowel pin holes.

    Ford dowel pins. If these are mapped out correctly, the crank center lines are the same.

    Back from Ivan... he did the dowel pin holes because they are critical... and poked the hole in the center and milled the thing flat so we would be guaranteed that the two surfaces were perfectly parallel.


    Banger dowel pin hole:


    Chevy dowel pin hole

  19. Here it is bolted to the back of a banger motor


    And here is the dowel pin located on it.


    Here you can see the two upper mounting bosses.


    And with a Chevy bellhousing bolted up! We'll use an SFI scattershield in the car. This one is just for a visual.



    As for a starter... Tim and I figured we can use the old Chevy location, as it is now turned around and will position the starter on the left side of the motor. I borrowed a Tilton mini starter, and we can take the aluminum plate off of one of those, weld a plate onto this hole, and bolt it on!


    This was a fun project... I got the motor plate and mid-plate done... I'll try to get some pics up.

  20. wak53
    Joined: Jan 15, 2006
    Posts: 76

    from aus

    Happy New Year
    I finished my Flywheel today took me 8 solid hours on my freinds lathe not a big lathe had to take 0.020" at a time got it to about 23 pounds going fast must of been a slow process back in the day, I am very happy its done now I can get on with fitting the 39 brakes.
  21. Greasy64
    Joined: Nov 1, 2008
    Posts: 198


    I second that! We need more info/pics on that Alexander.
  22. thank you sam. I am going back to drinking beer and watching.
  23. RussTee
    Joined: Mar 25, 2008
    Posts: 1,201


    thanks sam great detail just what we want and so true the comment about doing drawings to see nothing was missed so often a simple sketch can save a lot of grief later great project look forward to seeing progress
  24. Sam
    Thank you for the photos. Neat work! Sure makes it easy to understand when you can see it being done. Thanks again!
  25. Fantastic Tech Sam.
  26. petritl
    Joined: Jul 31, 2006
    Posts: 950

    from Marion, TX

    Thanks for the pictures. My flywheel is at the fat farm as we speak loosing weight. I interested in seeing how much weight Wilbur gets off it (started at 60 lbs).
    Below is a picture of my engine today. I need to turn the body of the Willys distributor down ~.040 so it will slide in the head. If this distributor works out it will be one of the cheapest ways to get a mechanical advance dist for the A engine. My dist. is NOS but I have seen used ones sell on eBay for less than $20.

  27. Welp, I got my Wico mag in the mail today :D Took the cap off, everything looks great inside. When I went to spin it by hand, I noticed it turns hard going clockwise...I assume thats the impulse???? Spun it a 1/4 turn and zapped myself!!! Thought I better learn a little about these before I go ruining it!
  28. furbiscuit,

    Isn't that the same style radiator that was on Edsel's T?


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