Technical Banger August Summertime, Summertime, Summertime

Motor porn is the best, I don't get in trouble if the wife or kids walk into the room, most of the time my girls will want to know more about the pictures, can't do with the other kind and yet I still get that dirty feel of looking at something that you normally can't or shouldn't see. I could send you my email but I think it would be better served if you post all those dirty pictures for the rest of the masses to see. I'm not sure if you'll get flamed for the injection but everyone will have to respect the machining and all the hours to get it running right. I for one, love injection, old and new, so your pictures are a special kind of porn here on a traditional board!
Good luck on the salt and if I can run away, I'll make sure to look for you in the pits.

 

No comment on the pictures, I caught the 7 year old looking at a Victoria's Secret cat. All gone now.
Yes, I have heard comment on the ECU system. I have this answer; like a true Hot Rodder, I had this stuff leftover sitting on the shelf and didn't have the money to buy a mechanical system. I was bit by not testing enough last year when we went to Bonneville. Part of the goal was to get through Rookie and we made a couple passes, done.
When we went to turn up the heat, it had a different idea than mine and caught fire. Small as it was.

The last picture is what happens when a housing is cracked and the motor hanging off of it is too heavy.

 

Now that is pretty
love a nice girdle

 

Check Macs catalog on line, they list 2 or 3 seals might have one for 2"

 

I really like the aluminum firewall- don't know about it's safety, but kuul touch! Might steal that idea for a future replacement on "the alomst stocker".

 

What's the deal with this oil pump set up? I'm assuming pressurized. It's a 29 A engine. I don't see any plumbing any where else. Was done in the 70's and hardly run.


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I'm looking for some opinions on intake manifold design here.
I am working on installing a pair of side draft carburetors. This will be on a dirt track 29 roadster.
The intended use of the car is exhibition runs with a group of other cars, so its not terribly important.
But I would like to end up with the best design possible.
A have a manifold for the carburetors for an Offenhauser and it is a log type manifold with each carb centered over 2 ports.
My engine is still just a 2 port model-A block.
I can make a log manifold and have the option of possibly adding a 3rd carb if necessary. Or make a straight tube manifold with a balance tube (either straight tubing or flared made from sheet metal, flared towards the block)

Any thoughts?? (drawings are in no way to scale obviously, just for refrence)

 

This is pretty basic, car ran 82 with dual BB's

 

Races canceled

 

I like the one on the right. Runner length will dictate power range and torque peak.

.

 

Thanks guys... I think the log manifold is more of a benefit with more then direct side draft carbs....started working on it last night... trying to figure out length's etc.

 

You may be just Banging your head against the wall.
CDO does make a good point about length vs rpm tune. This is true in every motor design. How much RPM do you think you will be turning this motor? And, for how long? If street driven you will probably be better off thinking lower revs.
What most forget is that with this motor, being siamesed port design and the firing order, the tuned length doesn't happen to matter as much. That being said, I would make it as long as it can possibly be to fit everything carbs, air cleaners or whatever in your car.
The balance tube between the two doesn't have to be too big in diameter, depending on the carb, you may not need one.

On a side note;
We made it to Vegas yesterday and breakfast was interrupted with a call from Bonneville of cancellation.
It could have been much worst, CDO and others were in Wendover for a few days watching the waves.
I was tempted to throw a water ski in the truck as we left..............J

 

View attachment 2685010 View attachment 2685010 This is a photo of finished components. The end of the balance tube is has a radius of 1 5/8" the same as the ID of intake tubes . The ends of the balance tube were polished with a slight radius. I turned 2 short pieces just under the ID of the intake tubes to hold fit of balance tube. You can see the short piece in place in tube on the left. One was too close had to bore it out. The bar in the rear held the spacing of mounting flanges. Intake tubes were taper bored from 1 3/4" to 1 5/8" at the block as that is current port size in block. I carefully ran a hone in intake tubes at balance tube joint. Carburetor flanges were welded on after these components were welded. Tried to locate carburetor flanges at 2 3/4 degrees same as a winfield single manifold. This was all scrap material !

 

This is a photo of my first attempt at side drafts. The intake tubes had a 1 1/2 " ID as I was planning on using a pair of S B's which I did. The length was determined by clearance needed to clear headers . Balance tube size was determined by what scrap Al tube I had. The engine was bored to 4" with a drilled counterbalance crank.REM AL rods J & E pistons Jim Brierley Winfield SU1R cam ran a Winfield repop head 7.5 to 1 car ran 76 in 1/4.

Balance tubes were, as I have read, developed for circle track racers. The use of supposedly smoothed the power surges as the cars accelerated and de-accelerated as they ran the course. On a straight high speed run there probably wouldn't much use for them. The article was about the Roof designed Laurel Racing heads

I once made balance tube fittings for Yoshimura for the large displacement 4's and they were approx. 3/8" ID or slightly larger so it doesn't take much

 

I want to clarify something regarding my use of side drafts. I did or do not expect any improvement in my engines operation. I just did not want to cut the hood in order to clear downdrafts! This is not too difficult to do, I laid my first set out using gaskets to locate holes one set 90 degrees off from first. I drilled holes the same size as the fuel passages in the float chambers then cut them with a Craftsman flex shaft yard sale tool and some Coor's Lite. Very precise operation. And they worked, my first pair were for 1 up draft and 1 downdraft Winfield S B carburetor, all the B's I had in the shop at that time. All you have to do is flip the adapter over and chamfer the other side.

 

The points don't matter that much. They become a trigger for the CD box. However, a Pertronix trigger, or any other electronic trigger, might be a choice, as the points tend to wear on the distributor cam. They say that you can get as much as 65 degrees total advance; but, I don't think I'd try that on an essentially "stock" engine. Frankly, I've got MSD's on a several highly modified engines; and I would not try that on any one of them. With advance, I'm either running what "The Book" says, or what runs best on a Dyno.

With an addition of a "Blaster" 45,000 volt coil (which I think is a must for that set up), you can set your plugs up to as much as .065! I don't know what a CD box does for a stock engine; but I KNOW that it can brighten up a modified one.

Oh! One last note...Don't ever let yourself be a connector with that coil, backed by a CD Box. It could very well be the LAST thing you do. Or, at least make you go sit down... Or, at best make you change your brand of whiskey.

 

I ran one and timed just as I always did. Same points and advance as without. Did run a hotter coil and opened up spark gap. Was told that it only really helped up to 3000 + RPM's

 

Dannerr,

Took a good look, and the only spare Chevy rockers I have are bent, etc. Will keep an eye out for more.

 

Thank you guys... and Thanks Bill for the roughed in adapter!...
The dual intake I am making now will be for a pair of 1-3/4 throttle bore Riley small bowl side draft carbs. The venturi on them is 1.05.
I am planning to make an intake for a single Winfield C side draft and finally one for the same size Winfield as an updraft.
This car is 100% strictly for dirt track use. We run at a controlled speed... but in a model-A its pushing it pretty hard.
I was running a dowbdraft Zenith 228 from a GMC 270 on a modified model-B intake. I bought the whole set-up at Hershey last year and just bolted it on.
My biggest problem was the height compared to my gravity feed from the tank.
I just about have a pressure pump hooked up to resolve that issue. But still want to try the various other intake layouts and see what is best for what we do.
This is all just for fun... but I do have some records of the times guys ran in similar cars in my area in the 40's. So I am trying to compete with that.
The car is a recreation of a car that my family had in 1948... but a bit more "racecar" then theirs was from what I understand.
Here is the freshly finished car a couple months ago.

The original in 1948, driven by Mitch Smith and owned by George Suhr


on the Tract at Latimore Valley Fairgrounds

Now the new modifications.....
Made a header to replace the stock manifold


My friend Dick Lewis made this smaller diameter pulley for me in trade for some sign painting work

Bill Carlson BCCHOPIT made these flanges for me, again in trade for some sign painting work.

The Riley carbs I would like to run. I found them in my garage when I bought it on an intake for an Offenhauser.

Pressure pump set-up I finished last night but have yet to try.

Here is some video from The Latimore Valley Fair, earlier this year. I blew the head gasket by the end of the day... right out the side! It split along the cylinder edge and was firing between the layers...
<iframe width="640" height="360" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/2InLrRHoFWU" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

 

I love that footage, Zach. That looks like so much fun. It's also about the level of performace that I'd like to pitch at in my old jalopy. A couple of weeks ago we had a few bangers blatting around a muddy flat track at the Gresford "mud run". It made me think it'd be great to have a low buck roadster stock banger class.

 

Tod Buttermore is offering to cast New Winfield or Weiand Cylinder heads
he has the Winfield molds read to go and can change to the weiand style if that is where the numbers are
he needs to do a run of 50 he also needs to know preference Iron or Aluminum

 

One vote for iron Winfield crowsfoot. That seems to be where the power is.

Herb

 

I have had 2 Winfield "Crows foot" heads and both had identical large diameter clearance cuts in valve pockets. I believe they would clear 2" valves. The increase makes for a very narrow web between the valve chambers, necessitates the use of solid copper gasket trimmed to fit.

My current "Crows Foot" is a "milled and filled head" 100 cc chambers. With stroker crank is 9.5 to 1 Compression leak on 2 and 3, head is flat.

 

I hate to ask, but what would be the cost for one? Either one in either iron or aluminum....

 

http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=146859
Here is the link to the thread on The Ford Barn where you can vote for what type of head you want to see made.

 

Murrieta Hill Climb, Nov 2, 2014

J

 

Bob Kehoe passed away on Wednesday August 13. A class act, he will be missed. RIP Bob

 

Very sad to hear that....Bob was indeed a gentleman!!!

 

Can anyone recommend a good sounding muffler for my Dad's Coupe? It's got a basically stock Banger and currently has an original style muffler (yawn). I was thinking about a Smithy but I had a pair of those on my old '39 Standard and it was so quiet you couldn't even hear it running at idle. Any thoughts on just replacing the muffler with a straight piece of exhaust pipe and eliminating the muffler altogether?

 

Not sure how old your dad is but I'm in my 70's and I like a cheapo 18" glass pack. You can still carry on a conversation but the world knows your not stock!