Normally use Ox-Guard on bolted connections, the lube prevents corrosion and allows easy disassembly while the zinc aids somewhat in conduction. It's not fool proof, but its better than left bare or wheel bearing grease. Always amazed at how many vehicles will heavily rely on the bolts that hold a vehicle together as a good bonding connection. Granted it should, but with paint and corrosion it's not the ideal way to do it. Usually add a little ground stud to the radiator support and a bonding jumper from the main battery body ground to the new stud. Still get shocked at how much brighter lights become. It is also easy to get carried away, and if not careful, creating a ground loop. More commonly seen in the late model import crowd with those 'grounding kits', gigantic spider looking things sold for hundreds, maybe $15 worth of wire/connectors. HAH! As an owner of similar era GMs, its not that the AL doesn't conduct, it does, it's that the holes the rivets go through are painted(insulated). Just gotta make sure the ground wire off the harness is still properly bonded between the motor and clean sheetmetal. Those gawdaful hex head sheetmetal screws used are always loose, half rotten and in no way possible to tighten correctly. Those ground screws always get replaced with a proper bolt and nylock nut on bare metal with a dab of Ox-Guard to make sure a good solid connection.
The Jalopy Journal
