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Projects B4Cdan, or Just Another A Tudor Build Thread!

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by brett4christ, Jan 5, 2013.

  1. A six volt spark is going to be faint.

    Have you checked the points and condenser? HRP
  2. Smilin Jack
    Joined: Nov 8, 2010
    Posts: 465

    Smilin Jack

    HRP, didn't mean to hijack the thread but I bought a 30 Model A coupe and you know what I'm going to do with it. gonna be begging for advice. LOL
  3. Thanks, Barrett! Oh, and PM me on the manifolds!

    How do you "check" them? My next step would be to just buy a set, but if I can save $.......
  4. I just about forgot!!!

    I have a complete Mallory dual-point distributor for the banger. Would this help or hurt me on getting it fired up? The tag # is 2301105, if that helps....
  5. Bump for the lunch crowd!
  6. I tried to see if I could get a spark from the coil-to-cap wire by removing it from the distributor and holding it to a head bolt.

    I tried two different coils with the same spark at the head bolt, no matter where I held it! Unless it was so incredibly faint that I couldn't see it inside my garage...under poor fluorescent lighting! (mental note: NEW LIGHTS!)

    Let's see....
    6v to starter...check!
    6v to each side of coil...check!
    6v to point post...check!
    6v to the coil-to-cap wire (when not energizing the starter)!

    Any suggestions?
  7. I believe I have found the first of many problems....My points were closing, but it was not making contact, therefore never completing the circuit. I completely disassembled the dizzy, checked all connectors and isolators, and reassembled. It all worked right up until I checked the circuit across the points. Sanded the contacts, wiped them clean, and voila.....success. Well, at least I found THAT problem. Now I know I need points, because I would still occasionally lose continuity. I would have to play with them to make them work. Finally, I connected one multi-meter lead to the ground side of the coil, the other to engine ground, and cycled the points. I could watch the meter and tell when the points closed fully or not by whether the volts went to zero or indicated 6V, closed indicated 0v.

    Still not sure on the rotor and/or coil. I ran out of time to check the other coil. I do believe, though that I am getting discharge at the high tension coil wire. I heard it arc once....once! (in my Joe Piscapo, "Johnny Dangerously" voice!)

    I'm one step closer, guys!!!

    Thanks rwd_pete!
  8. JoRodder
    Joined: Dec 5, 2010
    Posts: 56

    from Belgium

  9. good luck, keeping posting pics!
  10. Thanks Jo/OSR!

    Got the day off tomorrow and I plan on rollin' her outside and tinkering a little more. If I do nothing else, I'll take pics.

    I'm still on the lookout for an inexpensive head and a start on a set of bias plies in either 16" or 17". Cost, condition and size is more important than brand. Oh, and a set of 32 spring perches with mechanical brake tabs intact.....

    I'm also going to go through the ol' parts bin and see what I want to take to Charlotte for the AutoFair.
  11. Grandadeo
    Joined: Dec 24, 2008
    Posts: 798


    Brett, I haven't been on here much lately and hadn't seen this thread before. Now I understand the need for a hop-up head. I'll check with my buddy tomorrow and see what he might have laying around. See ya in Charlotte.


    Posted from the TJJ App for iPhone & iPad
  12. Thanks, Lee!

    Sent from my DROID device using the TJJ mobile app
  13. Went to the local pic-a-part last week, looking for a pair of bucket seats for the Tudor. Thought I had found some Fiat units, but they were rusted out. Started looking for alternatives....

    Almost walked right by a 90 Mazda APV minivan. The rear bench fits my truck quite well, and the middle bench couldn't fit the Tudor any better! It even reclines AND it has tracks! The blue will temporarily be hidden with some sort of throw, but eventually I'll cover it in black.


    Sent from my DROID device using the TJJ mobile app

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Mar 17, 2014
  14. MJW
    Joined: Jun 29, 2006
    Posts: 418

    from NJ
    1. PA. NJ. local HAMBERS group

    If you want to use buckets so you can flip them to get to the back, the seats out of a 2dr Neon have nice brackets for a flat floor, remove the headrests and throw on some covers.
  15. Thanks! I'll check them out.

    Sent from my DROID device using the TJJ mobile app
  16. A little update....

    Attended the AutoFair last month and picked up some goodies....

    '33-'34 17" wires...


    ...and some new rear shoes....


    Took the wheels to work today. They came home like this....


    ....and under the OG paint, I found this.....


    Happy, happy, happy!
    Last edited: Mar 17, 2014
    brEad likes this.
  17. Had the bare 17-inchers spun on a machine this morning to check for trueness. I've seen new modern wheels with more runout than these 80-year olds!

    I hope I'm in as good a shape when I'm 80!!!
  18. A Rodder
    Joined: Jul 13, 2008
    Posts: 2,477

    A Rodder

  19. A little update...

    I pulled my radiators (yep, two! gotta find out which one is better) and gas tank last week and took them to the shop to get cleaned and checked. Had to have a couple cracks fixed around the neck on one radiator, but the others were fine! Thank goodness....I was a little scared of what he may have found on the tank!

    I'll pick them up tomorrow!

    Also, I got my 17" wire rears painted and one installed (it's tough to mount a tire WITH TUBE on the garage floor with basic hand tools!).




    Also picked up a pair of 16" wires for the front (thanks jeffreyjames and silvair69)! Gotta little more work to do on them versus the 17s, But they'll look awesome!

    Which reminds me.....I also scored a pair of primo NOS BFG blems in 5.50-16 blackwall for the front. too.
    Last edited: Jul 9, 2014
  20. ....forgot to post a pic of the 16" wires....
    Last edited: Jul 9, 2014
  21. As I said from the start, this will be a painfully slow build, but it WILL be a build!

    Got all the wheels blasted and painted then all the tires mounted!


    Excelsior rears and NOS BFG fronts


    Before with the old 5.50-17s all around...(forgive the pics, it was getting dark out!)


    ....then with the bigs-n-littles


    Not a noticeable difference in the pics, but it looks much better now!

    Also managed to rebuild the water pump with a "leakless" kit from Bratton's! Progress!!!
    Last edited: Jul 9, 2014
  22. [​IMG]

    Just an artsy shot for fun!
    Last edited: Jul 9, 2014
    brEad likes this.
  23. I like it a Lot Brett,just needs to be lower IMHO. HRP
  24. Oh it will be, Danny!

    Immediate plans include a reverse eye front spring and a T rear spring, just to get it running for now.

    Long-term plans include a dropped axle with juice brakes and a QC V8 rear! I am evaluating my options for powerplants....several vintage Ford options and one not quite so popular. We'll see......
  25. Had a little time during a glimmer of spring last week! Got the front suspension ready to pull and rebuild. Using this and the spare chassis packages to make one good one....


    ....unless I get really ambitious and try to make this one work!

    [​IMG] [​IMG]

    (hint: '35 Ford!)
  26. Shaun1162
    Joined: Feb 22, 2010
    Posts: 809


    Awsome little sedan! Should make an awsome cruiser... Those fresh black wire rims help it alot!
  27. Okay, here goes....I am embarking on my first banger build for my early 31 Tudor. I have been collecting parts for the better part of 2 years and I believe I'm getting really close to what I need to get started.

    I currently have:
    2 complete engine/transmission assemblies
    1 engine (engine number is original to my Tudor - frame number matches)
    Burns 2x2 aluminum intake
    SEVERAL Holley 94s (will have 2 built by dickster)
    Mallory dual-point distributor (far left, between the SBC distributors)
    Ford "B" police head
    Ford "B" camshaft (the one on the right)

    Where would you seasoned banger veterans recommend that I start?

    I was thinking that I could disassemble both blocks and use the best of either one. Both have been rebuilt at some point. The one that came with the car, I believe, was rebuilt in the early 90's but has very few miles in that it was never tagged for street use. The other came in a rolling chassis. Its head is red with a green block and there is some sort of black "sealant" running down from the head/block mating surface. I do know that I want to lighten one of the flywheels.

    Any assistance would be greatly appreciated!
  28. Well you have the COP head so go with the COP cam.
  29. Too bad I DON'T have B shocks! 8D
  30. ssrs71
    Joined: Jan 12, 2009
    Posts: 79


    I have been telling you for two years now, put a battery in it and start it. I'm ready for a ride.

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