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Projects Axcell's 1955 f100 clone build

Discussion in 'Traditional Customs' started by sfeldma, Nov 29, 2011.

  1. Tinman
    Joined: Mar 6, 2001
    Posts: 963

    Tinman
    Member
    from Orange, CA

    Just gotta say it... dude, PLEASE don't run radials on there! You're recreating a fairly well-known custom, and getting the tires dialed-in is as important as any other visual aspect of this stunning truck. I've personally run bias-ply on my own F100 for over ten years now, and there's no reson you can't either!

    OKAY, now that that's out of the way... what size wheels are you running? This will help determine the proper tire fitment to achieve the look you're seeking.

    Also, don't overlook that this truck appears to be running bigs 'n littles...
     
  2. sfeldma
    Joined: Jan 31, 2011
    Posts: 146

    sfeldma
    Member

    I'm running stock Ford 15" x 5-1/2" wide wheels, the ones with the inner hubcap bumps. They're at the blaster/coater now getting RAL 3018 color applied.

    Help me get the right tires...

    For radials the best choice I've found is Diamond Back II 205/75R15 with 3" extra wide whitewall. At 44 psi, it is probably the most upright radial sidewall I can get to mimic bias-ply.

    For bias-ply, what do you think the best match would be? Size? Brand? White wall size? I would like approx. 27" tall tire, and the wheel size is fixed. I can't tell from the picture if it's a big/little combo or not.
     
  3. sfeldma
    Joined: Jan 31, 2011
    Posts: 146

    sfeldma
    Member

    How about G78-15 for front with 2-3/4" whitewall, and H78-15 for rear with 3" whitewall? Coker Classic tubeless bias-ply tires are available in these sizes.

    The next larger big/little combo is L78-15 rear and H78-15 front, both with 3" whitewall.
     
  4. chappys4life
    Joined: Sep 10, 2008
    Posts: 461

    chappys4life
    Member

    Really? I have never heard of this. I have read multiple people doing 53s with no issues. What t5 where you using?
     
  5. sfeldma
    Joined: Jan 31, 2011
    Posts: 146

    sfeldma
    Member

    '86 s10
     
  6. I like what you're doing. Here's my rendition of how I remember the truck
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Mar 8, 2012
  7. 1951Streamliner
    Joined: May 15, 2011
    Posts: 1,872

    1951Streamliner
    Member
    from Reno, NV

    Looking great man.

    Please run bias plies.
     
  8. Your headed in the right direction. Keep it up!
     
  9. sfeldma
    Joined: Jan 31, 2011
    Posts: 146

    sfeldma
    Member

    This is where I'm at on tires:

    Coker Classic bias-ply:
    Front: G78-15 3-1/4" WW
    Rear: L78-15 4" WW

    The Firestones and BF Goodrich both look nice but to me they look older than what would have been contemporary with 1958.

    Anyone have pics of those Coker Classic tires on their vehicle so I can get an idea before placing the order?
     
  10. 1951Streamliner
    Joined: May 15, 2011
    Posts: 1,872

    1951Streamliner
    Member
    from Reno, NV

    Heres my car before I took it apart for a full re-do. It now wears firestone 6.70s, but in this picture it has the g-78-15 3-14" WW

    [​IMG]
     
  11. chappys4life
    Joined: Sep 10, 2008
    Posts: 461

    chappys4life
    Member

    Any new pics off the stance?

    I just picked up a set of g78's off eBay for my 53 but I am not looking for big/little look.

    How do you like your exhaust sound? I was thinking something similar.
     
  12. sfeldma
    Joined: Jan 31, 2011
    Posts: 146

    sfeldma
    Member

    Still working on it. Decided to refresh all the front spring shackle bushings and rebuild the drag link ends while I had everything torn apart. It always takes longer than you think.

    I ended up ordering 560-15 for front and g78's for rear. If the fronts look too small, I'm not sure what my options are. Need to decide once it's put back together.

    Exhaust sounds great, very happy with the Porters. My motor is stock, so it's pretty quiet at idle, but nice note when under power. Sounds like 300hp rather than wimpy 100hp, or whatever stock is. Higher compression head, etc., will make it sound better, so I've read.
     
  13. saxet
    Joined: Mar 12, 2012
    Posts: 59

    saxet
    Member
    from Texas

    I have a '55, and this build (with everyone's input) is a big help to me. Thanks.
     
  14. fryguy
    Joined: Nov 26, 2005
    Posts: 1,233

    fryguy
    Member

    Here's a pic of my 55 with the Coker classics, L78's rear, fronts G78's Both tires are the 3" whitewalls.

    [​IMG]


     
  15. sfeldma
    Joined: Jan 31, 2011
    Posts: 146

    sfeldma
    Member

    Extended hangers going in.

    [​IMG]

    3" dropped axel from Sid's:

    [​IMG]

    New rubber, Coker PLY G78-15 front w/ 3-1/4' WW, L78-15 rear w/ 4" WW:

    [​IMG]

    Fresh 15"x5-1/2" wheels back from powder coater, RAL 3018 (strawberry red):

    [​IMG]

    With '55 Buick hubcap:

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Mar 22, 2012
  16. sfeldma
    Joined: Jan 31, 2011
    Posts: 146

    sfeldma
    Member

    Putting it all together:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  17. sfeldma
    Joined: Jan 31, 2011
    Posts: 146

    sfeldma
    Member

    The 4" WW in the rear helps with the big/little illusion. The L78s are taller than the G78s by about an inch, but the diff in WW width makes rear look larger than it would otherwise.

    I'm kind of bummed right now as I didn't get a change to take it for a spin. When I sat the front down on the tires for the first time, the steering was locked up. Drats, the draglink is rubbing the steering arm. I don't want to shorten the pitman arm. Looks like the steering arm needs to be modified. Dang it, why wasn't MII around in 1958? That would have been so much easier.

    Who's solved this problem with a 3" dropped axel, lowering spring with the axel moved forward 1-1/4", and extended draglink? What do I do? Please help.
     
  18. sfeldma
    Joined: Jan 31, 2011
    Posts: 146

    sfeldma
    Member

    Thanks fryguy, that helped me pick my tires. I went with same size as yours but with the 4" WW in back.
     
  19. Pharouh
    Joined: Sep 18, 2008
    Posts: 440

    Pharouh
    Member

    This is such a great build! Can't wait to see it finished.
    Anyone building the Wild Kat?
     
  20. sfeldma
    Joined: Jan 31, 2011
    Posts: 146

    sfeldma
    Member

    Ah, talked to Sid at Sid's dropped axels and he gave some pointers. I didn't add any caster shims yet. Adding shims will roll the steering arm down, maybe enough to clear the drag link. Sid suggested a 4 to 6 degree caster with the dropped axel, so I need to get under there with my gauge and shim accordingly. If that doesn't solve the problem, I may additionally need to heat and bend the steering arm in a couple of places to lower it. I'm hoping I don't need to so that second step.
     
  21. Tinman
    Joined: Mar 6, 2001
    Posts: 963

    Tinman
    Member
    from Orange, CA

    Excellent choice on the tires! I didn't want to say it, but the 5.60's would've looked pretty dinky on there.

    With a 3" axle, I don't think you can avoid dropping the arms. I'm kinda surprised Sid didn't do it for you when he dropped the axle?
     
  22. sfeldma
    Joined: Jan 31, 2011
    Posts: 146

    sfeldma
    Member

    Got new bumpers and installed the Buick portholes in the rear and routed the exhaust tips through 'em. Looks awesome! Are the tips sticking out too far?

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  23. sfeldma
    Joined: Jan 31, 2011
    Posts: 146

    sfeldma
    Member

    Before and after suspension/tire comparison:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  24. sfeldma
    Joined: Jan 31, 2011
    Posts: 146

    sfeldma
    Member

    I added 4 deg of shims to front axel to give me a total 6 deg positive caster and I now the drag link clears the control arm, but just barely. I hate to do it, but I'm going to bend the control arm to get more clearance. Hopefully that's the last of the suspension mods.

    I've decided to just drive the truck as-is this summer season and leave it pretty much the way it is. It's a hoot to drive and I know once it's all painted and nice I'll not drive it as much. I'm going to work on the grill/headlights next since I can do that while still keeping the truck on the road.
     
  25. fryguy
    Joined: Nov 26, 2005
    Posts: 1,233

    fryguy
    Member

    Very cool, glad I could help out. I'd like to go with the 4inch in the rear as well. I actually had the 3inchers laying around from a previous project so I went with those for now. Glad to see you are moving along with the project


    Fryguy


     
  26. Tinman
    Joined: Mar 6, 2001
    Posts: 963

    Tinman
    Member
    from Orange, CA

    Looks GREAT! It sounds like you already know the answer, but yeah, if you can move those tips forward about 3/8" to match the height of the portholes, it'd be spot-on.
     
  27. Looking Great!
     
  28. dirtbag13
    Joined: Jun 16, 2008
    Posts: 2,540

    dirtbag13
    Member

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