This dummy is to the point where I need to modify/install my F1 crossmember in my B4Cdan AV8 project. I’ve been studying what needs to be done to fit the F1 brake assembly onto the crossmember in the location that will provide the least resistance when mounting with the F1 steering box. So....I hung a plumb bob from the column drop and then aligned the steering column notch in the firewall with the plumb bob line and determined the centerline of the brake bracket needed to be 3-1/2” from the inside of the top frame flange. Measuring the original location of the bracket holes gave a measurement of 2-1/2”, so the holes needed to shift 1” toward the passenger side. Having read a bunch of posts, I saw that most people welded up the holes and drilled new ones. That was too straightforward for me, so I devised an evil plot to reuse the old holes in the new location! I made a template, cut it out and.... transferred the template to the crossmember. Using a cutoff wheel, I cut the shape out... then flipped it over.... After some MIG welds... grinding, and sanding discs, I had relocated holes!!! Now on to reshaping the ends to fit the frame…wish me luck!!
RAC just posted something along this rework on YouTube. I think it was within the last week or so.. He’s working on an A-V8 roadster pickup.
I'm following this one, I've still got the crossmember that I snagged off the 52 F-1 Chassis that I bought for parts and pieces a few years ago.
@finn RAC's video was a good explanation of how he did his crossmember ends. My thought process has me going down that same road.
Yes I welded plugs in the old ones and re drilled where I wanted it. Then bent my pedals to fit my feet and clear the steering column.
I like the way Travis did his.... eventually. I was yelling at the screen to pull the bottom flange up to the frame and rivet it there. He got to that point eventually so I was relieved. I wish the pedal cluster would fit as stock but must be moved as you have found. So did Travis. I've got one to modify as well but just don't like how low they hang. Let us know how it goes.
@dmar836 I watched Travis' video and I liked the way he talked it through and gave his thoughts as he worked things out. I did the same, but only in my head. I sat back Monday night after getting the top half of the crossmember ends trimmed (again as Travis did), but now I need to think on how important symmetry is in my application. More to come.... Oh, and what you're building definitely determines how you trim and fit the crossmember! Most of the builds I see are highboy/fenderless. I'm building a full fendered Tudor. Can anyone guess what was in the way of trimming my piece the way others have.....RUNNING BOARDS! Specifically, running board bracket RIVETS! Everything I touch is just a little more challenging that other's projects!!!
@RICH B That's pretty much how I see mine going, with one exception...I'll continue the lower flange to the edge of the crossmember so it will rest on the inner side of the lower frame flange (very similar to @1935ply ), at least on the drivers side.
Yeah, that's what I meant as well - keeping the bottom flange. I cannot imagine that flange is any more in the way or more unsightly than the the entire cross member hanging down. I think it looks more like a factory piece with the flange and rivets remaining. Maybe just me.
I continued on my crossmember modifications last night with an exercise in symmetry...or should I say ASYMMETRY! When the ends of the F1 crossmember are modified to fit within the confines of Model A frame rails, you end up with about 3-1/2" of height. Most I've seen have opened that dimension up as soon as possible to leave as much "meat" on the crossmember as possible. But, realistically, the portion that fits within the frame webs is the "weakest link". IF the modified unit fails anywhere, it will fail at this point. So, instead of opening up so quickly, why not continue that dimension to the transmission saddle? That's what I did last night! I used a divider, set at the dimension to fit the inside of the frame, and scribed a line from the top of the crossmember. Then I scribed another line equal to the radius for the bottom web. That was my first cut line. I, then, scribed a line where the radius of the bottom web meets the face of the crossmember and proceeded to cut that line to where it and the previous cut met. From there it was muscle, grind, weld, grind, weld, grind, until I got to this.... Now I have more room under the car for exhaust and such. Was even able to close up/get rid of the RHD brake master cylinder holes (well, most of them)! Tonight, I'll tackle the driver's side! Wish me luck!
The Jalopy Journal
