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Technical Av8 build intake and crank pulley question

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by MR K., Jan 2, 2016.

  1. MR K.
    Joined: Aug 20, 2009
    Posts: 591

    MR K.
    Member

    I spent alot of time last night going through threads. So learning I can put on my early intake in by 8ba. And about the intake and crank angles in relation to the older motors vrs later Flatheads. Here are my two questions.

    I set up the motor with the original intake on. Favoring 1/2 degree up on the back of the engine. When my new intake is on the carb angle is at almost 5. If I raise it up more to level the carb base my crank will not be pointing down I believe. But more parallel. Which I worry about screwing with my pinion angle. Better to set the motor with the original intake..correct?? And leave my new intake a few degrees off.

    Next question. On the crank pulley. Any issues if I machine off the first one? I want to bring the engine 3/8 forward.
     

    Attached Files:

  2. MR K.
    Joined: Aug 20, 2009
    Posts: 591

    MR K.
    Member

    more pics
     

    Attached Files:

  3. ROADSTER1927
    Joined: Feb 14, 2009
    Posts: 2,740

    ROADSTER1927
    Member

    What are you using for a trans and rear axle and is it closed or open drive shaft? Gary
     
  4. MR K.
    Joined: Aug 20, 2009
    Posts: 591

    MR K.
    Member

    T5 trans 39 rear end. Which puts me in the open drive class
     
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  5. MR K.
    Joined: Aug 20, 2009
    Posts: 591

    MR K.
    Member

    I figure I could just make a spacer for the carb to get it back to level??
     
  6. 55willys
    Joined: Dec 7, 2012
    Posts: 1,604

    55willys
    Member

    Are you going to run the early water pumps as well to line up with the rear pulley? If you do then you also might need to use an early distributer.
     
  7. Screw the intake manifold angle. Take the manifold off compleatly and set the top of your block 1 to 2 degrees up in the front and move on. Be sure your chassis is setting real close to ride profile. After that then set your pinion angle on the rear Axle to match.
    The Wizzard
     
  8. ROADSTER1927
    Joined: Feb 14, 2009
    Posts: 2,740

    ROADSTER1927
    Member

    Spacing the carb for level is easy. I would set up your belt system on your engine before cutting your pulley etc as you have early and late parts and some parts will not line up for you. Gary
     
  9. As for removing the lower front pulley. Yes you can remove it. There is a steel arbor that both pullys ate welded onto. If you clean the crud off the rear lower edge of rear pulley You'll see 4 Spot welds. That is what holds them to the Shaft part of the pulley.
    The Wizzard
     
  10. 55willys
    Joined: Dec 7, 2012
    Posts: 1,604

    55willys
    Member

    I have built one and set the top of the block level with the frame set up at ride height with the tires I was going to use. I don't feel like reposting pics right now so here is a link to my build thread. I am not using an early axle but everything still applies. I hope this will help you get it sorted out.
    http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/29-cabriolet-build-thread.956772/
     
  11. MR K.
    Joined: Aug 20, 2009
    Posts: 591

    MR K.
    Member

    Going to run the latter pumps. Trying to use single belt. the back pulley and the water pumps stick out 3.25inches. For the generator I was going to make that go up and down for adjustment like a stock one. May need to make a machine spacer or two. But that's the concept. Going to run a electric fan.
     

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  12. Here is what they look like taken apart. I had to re space my pulleys for an Odd set up on a one year Crankshaft.
    The Wizzard 20151009_083316.jpg
     
  13. MR K.
    Joined: Aug 20, 2009
    Posts: 591

    MR K.
    Member

    Awesome. Thanks guys !
     
  14. P.S. I hate electric fans on Hot Rods. You can do better than that if you try.
    Personal opinion of course.
    The Wizzard
     
  15. Case and Point. It wasn't easy but it's worth it and it Looks RIGHT!
    The Wizzard P1010249.JPG
     
    MBog likes this.
  16. ROADSTER1927
    Joined: Feb 14, 2009
    Posts: 2,740

    ROADSTER1927
    Member

    Listen to Pist-n Broke. Gary
     
  17. MBog
    Joined: May 2, 2006
    Posts: 552

    MBog
    Member

    Yup what he said...
     
  18. MR K.
    Joined: Aug 20, 2009
    Posts: 591

    MR K.
    Member

    Typically do :) he's helped me out a few times in my learning curve. Any smart way to get a fan set up on a single belt. Do I just need a generator with a fan on it ? Any close pics of some clean set ups? Or am I better with a two belt system? I was hoping to bring the motor forward. I probably only have 3/16 of gap between the firewall and intake/motor. My last set up was just as close in my av8 truck. I was not fond of it. So was hoping to give a bit more room on my roadster
     
  19. Well, Tell us more about your Roadster and what it's going to be when done. Meaning limits and restrictions like hood, fenders and such. Where are you willing to Give to Get?
    The Wizzard
     
  20. MR K.
    Joined: Aug 20, 2009
    Posts: 591

    MR K.
    Member

    I have my ride height set. No fenders..but will run a hood and splash aprons. 4" drop in the front. I have a slight Z in the back of the frame. Will run 600 in te front. 700 in rear. Looking to run this early dual carb intake that was showed in the first few pics.
     

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  21. MR K.
    Joined: Aug 20, 2009
    Posts: 591

    MR K.
    Member

    Here are some pics
     

    Attached Files:

  22. MR K.
    Joined: Aug 20, 2009
    Posts: 591

    MR K.
    Member

    Open ears fellows...
     
  23. OK, So a full stock Hood. That stops you from moving the Rad forward unless your a skilled metal guy or willing to spend $$$ for a Rootlibe custom one. Personally I'd not do that. Your photos are limited to what I can see but sounds like the motor mounts are not built yet. Am I correct? Next is what are you doing for pedals? Are they installed yet? And that Firewall,,, Yikes! But from where I sit I think that's Good,, well maybe. What's going on there?
    The Wizzard
     
  24. MR K.
    Joined: Aug 20, 2009
    Posts: 591

    MR K.
    Member

    Motor mounts are on. But just a few slot welds while I mock up the entire drive train. The fire wall.. That hole is it stock!?? What?? ;). Yea.. Not sure who or why someone cut the hole in there. But I can patch that or switch it out.

    Pedal assembly I will build something similar to a pete and Jake set up.

    Steering..was hoping to use a cross steer set up . I have 39 box and column I was going to see if I could make work. Other wise f100 or model a box.

    I plan to drive this car alot.
     

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  25. This is sounding Good. I like your final plan "To drive it a Lot". Notice on my Roadster the steering box. Depending on where things set you might get away with a Gen Mounted Fan. Before going to much further I'd gather up those pieces and do a test fit. Know that there is a long and short Gen mounted Fan. Elevation is deceiving in photos but you won't know for sure till you try it. Being a Metal Man I keep eyeing that Firewall. Know that next to Electric Fans the Kleenex Box look is next on my list. Maybe moving the motor back a little will be necessary. Are you up to that?
    Here is a very Old photo that's just Food for Thought. 32 Stude 0002.jpg
    The Wizzard
     
  26. MR K.
    Joined: Aug 20, 2009
    Posts: 591

    MR K.
    Member

    I have an extra fire wall or three round in my parts. I figure I can cut out the missing section or just replace the entire thing. I want the fire wall to look stock. I will gather up some parts and go from there. Worst case i get creative and machine something up to make the fan set up work.
     
  27. Got ya on the Firewall. So a different idea. Same on my Roadster, the stock look only not. I totally deleated the Motor dimple in it. It now has the same profile all the way across. How about the other direction for you. Being you need to repair on both sides why not add to the Motor Dimple so that it looks stock but with a little more space? Just thinking with the Key Board here. So back to the 37 style Gen/Fan unit. What you'll find is that the spacing front to back is all off. If the Fan will fit under your top Rad tank you will need to make the belt line up with the pulleys. The front to back of the Gen isn't going to be a bolt on. No big deal. Once the pulleys line up adjusting the fan blades would be next. It's just a little machine work. I have parts and pieces here. I can give you numbers if needed to maybe help ya decide if this would work out or not.
    Here is my Firewall. This came about due to location of 39 pedal unit and Toe board relations. Plus I didn't like the factory Dent.
    The Wizzard

    Firewall project test fit 006.jpg
     
  28. MR K.
    Joined: Aug 20, 2009
    Posts: 591

    MR K.
    Member

    Awesome. Good info. Now to find some parts
     
  29. I run an electric fan on mine too. No problems. If I had a mech. fan, I'd probably paint the fan tips safety yellow...
    I'm running 32 rails and had to raise the engine up for ground clearance when I mocked it up. Bottom of truck style pumps are nearly 2" above top of frame rail. with that done, we set the drive shaft angle from the end of the tranny (T-5). Shimmed at the cross member accordingly
     
  30. MR K.
    Joined: Aug 20, 2009
    Posts: 591

    MR K.
    Member

    Being that I have 8ba motor in there now. And it's the longest motor I believe. If I ever had to switch to an early Flathead with the distributor in the front or a 59ab. It should all fit up the same pretty much correct? Blocks are the same length I think. But...I have been wrong before
     

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