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Projects Automotive A.D.D .....the '28 Tudor

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by 1oldtimer, Nov 18, 2012.

  1. 1oldtimer
    Joined: Aug 21, 2003
    Posts: 7,999

    1oldtimer
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Ok I got another car in June.....I know, I know, I need to finish what I have now :rolleyes: .......this disease is most likely why I don't have $$$ to finish the other ones.

    The Car:
    1928 Tudor with a early 2.0 pinto motor, C4 trans and a Izusu Trooper (?) rear end. '40 front drums, rear disc, '47-53 Dodge master/pedal assy, '37ish front axle with split A bones front and rear. Outside is a fairly new coat of semi flat black (over everything), newer top, Dietz headlights, '35 wires with bias tires (and a spare to boot!). Interior is old repo kit with overspray on it, the stock column is hooked to a Vega box, cool faux wood grain on the tank face and garnish moldings (it's staying :D).... Also a homemade wood panel under the dash with some gauges (not staying). It drove the 80 miles home a little slow, fuel tank seeping from the gas gauge and column drop, no brake lights and a pretty good coolant leak. The build might be a little slow since I'm trying to get the Panel on the road too......but what the hell I'll start a post anyway.

    The Plan:
    Hop up the 2.0 with a header, an Edelbrock 2x1 intake/carbs, cam, shaved head and electronic ignition. Replace the A/T with a T5, replace the rear end and suspension with '35 bells, '46 truck banjo center, '39 axles, '35 bones and '46 juice brakes. Replace the front A bones with '35 bones, dropped '35 front axle (thanks 296 V8) use a Dagel super X crossmember kit, poss boxing kit and '39 pedals. Repair the fuel leaks, paint the wheels a different color, '33 17" rear wire wheels, add old chrome to offset the flat blackness and lower the rear by some leafs.

    Parts I've collected:
    Good chromed original grill shell
    Good chromed original headlights
    Edelbrock 2x1 intake and misc carbs
    Header
    Good original drum tail light
    Decent older chromed original front and rear bumpers
    New (10 years ago) radiator .....you gotta love LARS.
    '35 rear end with suspension and juice brakes (thanks THE-SYNDICATE and BenD)
    '46 truck rear end
    '35 front end
    '39 axles
    Mustang T5 and a S10 tailshaft housing and shift top
    F100 steering column
    2 '33/'34 17" wire wheels
    Misc parts, new, nos and aftermarket from the UK (they still like the 2.0 :))

    5Id5N35Mf3E73K73Mfc5b0b39c75a7c2a1efe.jpg
    5N55Kc5H13L33J73l7c5b55a9737194aa1a90.jpg
    5N65K85J73Lc3J73Hcc5b83fda895095f1ea6.jpg
    5Nf5G15M33G23L83Mfc5be564fd771dd21d85.jpg
    driving home from coronado-2.JPG
     
    Last edited: Oct 29, 2019
    Budget36 and kiwijeff like this.
  2. 1oldtimer
    Joined: Aug 21, 2003
    Posts: 7,999

    1oldtimer
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I forgot to mention that the bumpers are powder coated silver (which the coater told the PO it was chrome).....also it's going to get a complete rewire.

    Random pics:

    work-1.jpg
    2.0 motor-1.jpg

    Let the slow fun in the driveway start!!!
     
    Last edited: Oct 29, 2019
    kiwijeff likes this.
  3. 1oldtimer
    Joined: Aug 21, 2003
    Posts: 7,999

    1oldtimer
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Now I'm thinking of ditching the Vega box. Anyone have some info (how to make my own) on the F100 to model A steering column/box.
     
  4. hotrodladycrusr
    Joined: Sep 20, 2002
    Posts: 20,762

    hotrodladycrusr
    Member

    So, how's the project coming?
     

  5. 1oldtimer
    Joined: Aug 21, 2003
    Posts: 7,999

    1oldtimer
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    How's it going Denise.


    I think I posted too early......
    Still collecting parts, I took a 4 month breather and tried to re focus. I figured I needed to get one on the road, so I'm sticking with the '54 panel until it's a driver. The '28 will have to wait a few more months.

    http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1107640-54-panel-road-to-recovery.html

    I thought this might be to boring of a build here, so I put it on the Ford truck site. This one has had many set backs, so I started to burn out (that's where the '28 came in).......BTW this is what those running boards you got for me a few years ago are for.
     
  6. Anybody that wants to chime in on my comment are welcome. I'm using words remembered from somebody that played with first gen F100 Fords.
    "Gemmer was the manufacturer of the steering box. They used formed/forged powdered metal to create the worm gear. You could buy a great steering box and would wear early and be as sloppy as the one you took off."
    We're not talking the technology of forming connecting rods for the Ford 4.6 engine of powdered metal. We're talking 1950's.
    If you want side steering, maybe a conversion to a 1970 or so Mustang box would be more up your alley if you need to change.
    Is the Vega setup working properly? If it is, does it really need to be changed that bad? Changing to a Mustang box or F100 box would also mean somewhat major steering column changes and frame mods.
    Thinkin' through some steps in my mind. Sorry, I'm just thinkin'.
     
  7. 1oldtimer
    Joined: Aug 21, 2003
    Posts: 7,999

    1oldtimer
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    The F100 box is a regular upgrade for the stock model A, slight mod to the box foot to mount it to the frame. Tube comes out the upper part of the box so no column drop mods needed. If you want the stock look you can mate the two columns to get the original wheel, length and rods (with some box mods). I don't need the rods, so it will be a pretty easy swap, plus the vega set-up has some funky brackets and no lower column support (which is real bad on the column drop riveted to the fuel tank).
     
  8. 1oldtimer
    Joined: Aug 21, 2003
    Posts: 7,999

    1oldtimer
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    A little more fine tuning before I start.

    It's going to include head and cam mods, a holley 350 carb adapted to the stock intake, a T5, '35/'36 dropped front axle, '35/'36 front bones, 8 leaf rear T spring and '33/'34 17" rear wires if needed. The f100 box is mocked up already and more stuff is out.......time to do some car shuffling and get to work AFTER this heat wave is over of course :).
     
    Last edited: Feb 2, 2014
  9. 1oldtimer
    Joined: Aug 21, 2003
    Posts: 7,999

    1oldtimer
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    Moving forward.........frame at Limeworks.
    frame-5.jpg
     
    Last edited: Oct 29, 2019
  10. 1oldtimer
    Joined: Aug 21, 2003
    Posts: 7,999

    1oldtimer
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Back apart
    apart-1.JPG
     
    Last edited: Oct 29, 2019
  11. 1oldtimer
    Joined: Aug 21, 2003
    Posts: 7,999

    1oldtimer
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    Found some more pictures of it driving home. Brake lights went out and I borrowed a license plate from the old owner to get it home.
    driving home from coronado-1a.JPG
    driving home from coronado-3a.JPG

    Here's the 2.3 T5 mated to the 2.0 block.
    2.0 T5-1.jpg
     
    Last edited: Oct 29, 2019
  12. 1oldtimer
    Joined: Aug 21, 2003
    Posts: 7,999

    1oldtimer
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    New rear spring mock up, brake master adapter and parts.

    rear spring perch-1.jpg rear-2.jpg rear-3.jpg brake master mount-1.jpg brake master mount-2.jpg frame-14.jpg parts-1.jpg
     
    Last edited: Mar 21, 2016
  13. deucetruck
    Joined: Jan 8, 2010
    Posts: 644

    deucetruck
    Member
    from Missouri

    It's coming together. I like your changes. Is that a Corvette master cylinder?
     
  14. 1oldtimer
    Joined: Aug 21, 2003
    Posts: 7,999

    1oldtimer
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    American Motors 1976-63, Jeep 1975-66 1" bore. One of the few that had right side ports.
     
    Soviet likes this.
  15. 1oldtimer
    Joined: Aug 21, 2003
    Posts: 7,999

    1oldtimer
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    Still messing with the rear spring set-up. Heating the spring hangers to make them parallel with the spring.
    Almost done with the brake lines, still need to finish the lines to the rear cylinders and add some more line clamps.
    brake lines-1.jpg brake lines-2.jpg brake lines-3.jpg brake lines-4.jpg
     
    Last edited: Mar 21, 2016
  16. 1oldtimer
    Joined: Aug 21, 2003
    Posts: 7,999

    1oldtimer
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    Lines done, rear spring set-up pretty much done. I just have to make some spacers for the T spring (where the washers are). Now it's in line and parallel with the spring and the spring goes into the crossmember with no prying. I'm still messing with my new lathe (my first one) to get the 3 jaw chuck to hold true. I really need to get going and work on the car more :(, before summer gets here.

    brake lines-5.jpg brake lines-8.jpg brake lines-9.jpg rear perches-1.jpg south bend-11.jpg
     
    Last edited: Mar 21, 2016
  17. Stovebolt
    Joined: May 2, 2001
    Posts: 3,377

    Stovebolt
    Member

    Looks like this car is coming together nicely. Great choice of parts too.
     
  18. 1oldtimer
    Joined: Aug 21, 2003
    Posts: 7,999

    1oldtimer
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    Had a co worker turn down some nos AA perch pins for me (my lathe is still down and I suck), I still have to cut the width down to fit the model A spring width. Now I don't have to worry about new perch pins breaking (some posts on here about that) and they're long enough to go through the thicker '35 bones. Found a Holley 350 carb spacer on Ebay and made it into an adapter, still have to blend the intake to the adapter. Also found a cheap header at the swapmeet, cut it up for the flange and stubs...so it's a start.

    AA perch pins-1.jpg header-1.jpg carb adapter-1.jpg
     
    Last edited: Mar 21, 2016
  19. 1oldtimer
    Joined: Aug 21, 2003
    Posts: 7,999

    1oldtimer
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    Starting to do steering mock-up but got sidetracked this week with installing a engine and getting it running for a friend. It's a really clean mostly stocker (wheels and tires are just rollers), hopefully it will be running this Sunday.
    bob woody-1.jpg
    bob woody-2.jpg
     
    Last edited: Apr 5, 2020
  20. 1oldtimer
    Joined: Aug 21, 2003
    Posts: 7,999

    1oldtimer
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Steering mocked up...anyone see any problems?. The perch pins are done and in, the manifold blending is done. I found a stock 2.3 Ranger header/manifold, cut the flanges off and now need to mate it to the 2.0 flange. Bought some 2" muffler pipe, making a battery box. The steering arms are dropped too low in the pic (they're for the '36), I have other ones.

    steering-2.jpg steering-3.jpg steering-4.jpg
     
    Last edited: Mar 21, 2016
  21. 1oldtimer
    Joined: Aug 21, 2003
    Posts: 7,999

    1oldtimer
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    The draglink in the pic it for mock up only btw.
     
  22. Stovebolt
    Joined: May 2, 2001
    Posts: 3,377

    Stovebolt
    Member

    Your steering setup looks fine to me. Probable better than most as the pivot for the wishbone looks like it will intersect with a line drawn along the drag link.
     
  23. 1oldtimer
    Joined: Aug 21, 2003
    Posts: 7,999

    1oldtimer
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    Still working slowly. Put a trans in another woody top-1.jpg out.jpg in.jpg

    The Ford o matic is heavy.
     
    Roger53 likes this.
  24. 1oldtimer
    Joined: Aug 21, 2003
    Posts: 7,999

    1oldtimer
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I also scored another piece of equipment for pretty cheap. I now have a metal bandsaw, needs a blade, some tires (maybe) and an oil change for the gear box. The thing is HEAVY.

    3.jpg 2.jpg 4.jpg
     
    Last edited: Mar 21, 2016
  25. 1oldtimer
    Joined: Aug 21, 2003
    Posts: 7,999

    1oldtimer
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Back to the '28, small boring stuff going on. I have a battery box now and almost finished with a parking brake set-up.

    parking brake handle-1.jpg parking brake-1.jpg
    Also another thought on the header, I cut off the 2.0 flange and found a 2.3 ranger stock "header", it's close. Only issue is that the ranger pipe is smaller then the 2.0 header pipe (1.25 id vs. 1.50 id), not sure if the 1/4" will make a difference.

    header-4.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jun 3, 2014
  26. 1oldtimer
    Joined: Aug 21, 2003
    Posts: 7,999

    1oldtimer
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Back on it..........Rear shocks with a modified Corvette lower mount into the '36 wishbone. I had to machine and re taper the front '35 bones down so I could run a lower shock mount.
    rear shocks-3.jpg
    wishbone-1.jpg
    wishbone-2.jpg
    wishbone-3.jpg
     
  27. 1oldtimer
    Joined: Aug 21, 2003
    Posts: 7,999

    1oldtimer
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    More........The difference in the contour of the A rear spring and the T rear spring, I tacked two strips of metal to the top leaf to take up the room.

    rear springs-3.jpg
    rear springs-4.jpg
     
  28. Another experience lately shows me what those twin carbs can be from. They should have a casting that says Manufactured by Carter for Motorcraft. They can be from a 240" Ford truck 6 cylinder or a Ford farm tractor with the same engine. One on a pickup engine can be a problem. One on a 170" or so could make for a lot of CFM available. Two? Neat trouble.
    Please, enjoy the fire out or that neat car! It's a whole lot better than the rotten piece I built my A from!
     
  29. 1oldtimer
    Joined: Aug 21, 2003
    Posts: 7,999

    1oldtimer
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    They are based on a model 1940 carb (the 6 cyl you mentioned) but are smaller inside as Edelbrock ordered them special for that combo. I have both the correct carbs and 2 1940 carbs for parts. But now I'm going to run a Holley 350 adapted to the stock manifold.
     
  30. 1oldtimer
    Joined: Aug 21, 2003
    Posts: 7,999

    1oldtimer
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Blended,
    carb adapter-2.jpg

    And carb
    holley 350cfm 2bbl-1.jpg
     

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