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Technical Aussie 1929 Chevrolet Model A RPU

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by Richie R, Jan 17, 2014.

  1. Yes a Chevrolet Model A RPU, have a chev 29 chassis, a 57 Stovebolt 235 with Powerslide (just sold that heavy sucker), a truck manual bell housing with T5
    Going for a 50s highboy look of a basic Ford RPU but with exposed chevy parallel springs. Using a 49 F1 front axle with matching Dana 41.
    Puting together a 28 A bone cab for it out of others scrap parts. All Aussie RHD stuff so far.
    Been looking for online diagrams on building a cab subfloor, does anyone here know a link to one?
    I can get a Australian manufactured subfloor in standard or 6" extra at $475 Orrrrrr,,,can get side panels made up easy enough in any length to match my floor.
    Custom or commercial subfloor assy? Help me decide.
  2. Phil Stevens
    Joined: Mar 24, 2002
    Posts: 392

    Phil Stevens

    here's the measurements for Model A RPU if it helps
  3. Why bother using a Chev chassis? And the parallel leaf spring thing? I don't get why?

    Wouldn't it be a shit ton easier to buy an original frame.. box it, and use Ford parts instead? It'd look way better and the stuff just bolts together. Why make it so complicated?
  4. iarodder
    Joined: Dec 18, 2012
    Posts: 214


    I guess I'm confused is it a Chevy or a Ford? Kinda says both.:confused:

  5. midroad
    Joined: Mar 8, 2013
    Posts: 293


    I can tell you from experience you will have trouble getting the front suspension low enough. Even if the axle is dropped there will be no space for steering components to go across. I ended up using a very non Hamb stainless IFS to get my '29 Chev tourer sitting right.
  6. You can use a 50's Chevrolet truck front axle to give you some drop.
  7. Well I have started to mock up everything, the chassis I picked up is actually a 1927 as it has the shorter wheelbase, the 29 I was planing to get has damage.
    Looks like it will now be a 3 springer, will swap my F1 spindles and brakes onto a later 30s Ford axle and run split bones. Yes the F1 parallel springs just look wrong and are 2 inches too wide to fit without spreading the front rails.
    As for why a chev chassis,,,I just like the look of them, are a heavier gauge metal and have a high rear kick up.
    This chassis is in perfect condition, can see all the factory stamps (like a "S")
    Going to move one of the factory cross members back and that will pinch the chassis nicely for the A body.
    Just now need a A front X member.
    The 27 has almost a identical wheelbase as a A bone too.
    Last edited: Jan 18, 2014
  8. Forgot to say, this thing is a true budget build. All the cowl assy bits, doors, chev tank, chassis, F1 front and rear, the 235 only owe me $800 in total, and have sold my power slide for $100.
    I have traveled the State looking to pick up all the parts.
    A good solid model A chassis in this country can cost $1000.
  9. Blackroad
    Joined: May 18, 2007
    Posts: 290

    from Sydney

    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1390105985.959819.jpg ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1390106011.585965.jpg ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1390106029.302411.jpg ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1390106055.502373.jpg . Here is my 14 year old sons 30 Model a pickup which is being built on a Dodge chassis. Use the dodge chassis as cheaper than model A and has a natural 5 inch kick up at back. Fitted model a front and rear crossmembers and reshaped the front of frame to resemble model A.

    Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
  10. I paid $750 for my Model A chassis and it came with a full front end and some other bits i sold off. Was worth it though, everything just bolts to it. Can't get any simpler.
  11. Nice job on the frame end, will have to copy it. Other than the different front spring hanger, your dodge chassis looks almost identically to my chevy.
  12. Blackroad
    Joined: May 18, 2007
    Posts: 290

    from Sydney

    Couple more photos of frame end to show how we cut it. No new metal needed. ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1390218808.568602.jpg ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1390218822.068002.jpg ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1390218836.201648.jpg

    Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
  13. I really like where you are going with this- 3 springers are great!
  14. I think so too, wish more would run rear parallel rear springs. I love the simple mechanical connection between the chassis and axle, been used from the horse and cart days and still used on nearly every pickup and larger truck today.
    Most think the shackles look ugly but the way the rear tapers down on the early Chev to the cast end look as good as it gets with parallel rears.
    For a budget build like mine there is no better way.
  15. 1928arat
    Joined: Dec 16, 2008
    Posts: 48

    from australia

    Has any more been done on your car I'm heading down this road with the chassis
  16. George Miller
    Joined: Dec 26, 2008
    Posts: 413

    George Miller
    from NC usa

    Way to go, it is much more fun to do your own thing. Any one can do it the same as every one else. To me a hot rod should be part of you, not a copy cat car.
    Outback and grumpy32 like this.
  17. x2 :)
  18. hellerlj
    Joined: Oct 12, 2005
    Posts: 1,062

    from Minnesota

    I paid only $750.00 for a complete, Running, 1929 Ford Tourer, had a new top, drove it home from near Traralgon to Sale.............OH YA !!! That was 1974.....seems prices have changed a bit !!!!!!!!!!!
  19. Bronsonkills
    Joined: May 9, 2016
    Posts: 4


    Can you post more photo's of your build , heading in the same direction on 1929 Chevrolet, but having a hard time finding body parts in the states in California Ford country not my Chevy roadsters out this way
  20. Bronson,,,,you might check the date on a thread when you post on it,,,this one is over two years old
  21. Outback
    Joined: Mar 4, 2005
    Posts: 1,179

    from NE Vic

    Richie had this on the market, not sure if it sold, there was also another build thread too....

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