The reason I'm running them is, I had them layin' around, and they're yellow!! I bought them for my truck because of the horrible buzz I got through my radio, it helped some. If it doesn't hurt nuttin', I think I'll keep 'em.
Corn Coupe: Great pics, did you take them? Thanks for sharing! Enbloc: Damn I'm jelous that looked like one hell of a ride! That's one you can tell the Grandkids about! Luke
I took the 31 for a spin yesterday after just doing a quick visual inspection on everything, seemed to run ok , but I am getting some serious back pressure back fires when letting off in 3rd gear, or either getting up to speed then letting off, or letting off coasting down hill, I never noticed it before (not like I have put alot of miles on the car) even if I let out of her easy to no acceleration it still does it...is this something that is comon with a banger or do I have a timing issue on my hands.. It is all stock still with a newer exhaust and muffler to boot.. Any insight or should I just keep my foot in it....lol
Is the A motor and the AA motor the same? Just wondering if there would be more factory power being the loads it would have to haul around.
Everything I know about the two says they are the same except for the serial no. and the bell housing. The trucks dealt with the power (or lack there of) with a different trans and rear end gearing. .
Anyone ever shortened their Model A pitman arm - as mentioned in the Les Andrews book? Worth doing? Did you MIG it?
I did a quick check on the timing with the timing pin, and number one being tdc, and pointing to number one aswell, all seems good, am I missing something or am I looking in the wrong place for the back-fire?? Is it normal?
Sounds like you might have a leak in the exhaust. When you let off the vacuum pulls fresh air in and ignites unburned fuel. Also check your carb tuning David
I'm working on tuning my banger motor. It's got a touring cam and two Holley 94's on a new aluminum intake. The carbs have 49 jets and 4.5 PV installed in both. The carbs are set up direct, ie non-progressive linkage. The carbs are from Rudy Faltermeir and the engine was built by Ron Kelley. Let's assume that the carbs and engine are perfect and only need adjustments. Keep in mind that this is my first go at tuning and I know very little. So, where do I connect a vacuum gage? Do I have to drill and tap the intake for that? I ask because I've read that you take a vacuum reading at idle, divide that by 2 and install that size PV or the next one down. The motor starts and idles great with the idle screws about 2.5 turns out. When accelerating, there is a stumble and then it takes off. I'm guessing the stumble is when the PV's are opening and dumping a lot of fuel. Any thoughts and suggestions to get rid of the stumble? How do I know it is tuned perfectly? The plugs have a brown color on the electrode.
Hey Wildfire, My guess would be the accelerator pumps are hitting too hard - have you tried adjusting them to their least potent setting? Seems like 94s have maybe three settings? My understanding is that the PVs are most relevant at WOT. Will Kimble
Lets assume I am a dummy about carb tunning (I am!) What is a good way/place to start on the carb, It seems to climb thru the rpm range ok, but it does take a long time for it to idle on its own, seems to only wanna do it when it gets good and warmed up... Will Kimble what was that MODEL A Manual you recommended to me when I was at your place last time... Ryan
If you're backfiring lrs30, you have a timing problem. Pull the pin and make sure the motor is at TDC. Push the timing lever all the way up on the left side of the steering wheel. Then make sure the rotor is set like this picture below. NOT THE DOTTED LINE, but like the picture. Follow the instructions on this website for a smooth running banger motor. http://www.abarnyard.com/workshop/timing.htm
Hey guys did a search on this but couldn't find what I am looking for. I am planning to eventually go with a 4" dropped front axle, juice brakes and want to lower the rear end some too. I am told a "T" spring is the way to go. What year Model T spring do I need and what other parts are needed to make this conversion? Can someone school me on the Model T rear spring swap for my '29 A Coupe? Thanks, Tom
Will, The PV doohickie is in the middle hole. Any idea which way is which? Front of the car or back of the car? Which way is least potent? Probably the way it strokes the least? As you can see, I'm a real mechanical genius... Ha, found a schematic! The accelerator pump is now in hole 1, it was in hole 2.
Irs30 I have seen guys plug one or both PV and just run bigger jets. This was on V8s I was told the PV dumps too much gas when you have 2 or more carbs my buddy just runs 1 pv ANY ONE OUT THERE HAVE ANY INFO. ON THIS Bill
i have noted that some repro timing gears are a wee bit out maybe differences between a@b motors this could be the reason for many of the problems i see on this site always check against your old timing gear
I have shortened 2 different ones, I used a stick welder and Nickel rod. I don't think I've seen the way Les Andrews does it.
Moved that accelerator pump connector to hole 3, runs nice and smooth now. No more problems as you accelerate, just smooth power. So here's what I gather. Each hole opens the pump the same amount, hole 1 does it the fastest and hole 3 the slowest. My banger apparently needs the slowest. Cool with me.
Artiki, MikesAFordable in Georgia,U.S. Sell Model A Piman Arm, thats shortened one inch. Its about $70 dollars. I plan to cut and mig my own.Money better spent elsewhere.
BCCHOPIT - Two 94's, two 4.5 PVs. Although most dual carb intakes have an equalizer tube, Ron Kelley (who built my banger) and I discussed this at length. His opinion, and I agree, is that both carbs need to be set up the same so that both ends of the engine see the same mixture. This "eliminates" the risk of one end running lean and burning up pistons. Same reason I'm running direct linkage instead of progressive.
Hi Wildfire, Glad to hear that helped you out. I am running a single 97 on a B with a Snyder head, had a cough on acceleration that is USUALLY associated with the accelerator pump not working correctly. I changed from the Winter to the Summer setting and it went away. Accelerator pump was working too well! Best as I can tell, the single 97 is too much carb for my engine - don't know how anybody gets away with dual carbs. I am hoping the original Winfield head that my Dad is bringing up to me tomorrow will change all that! Reading your posts, it sounds like you have the accelerator pumps and the power valves confused. Get a cheap old 94 to play with, tear it down and smoke it over. The accelerator pump is a plunger that squirts gas as the throttle shaft moves. The different settings control when it starts to plunge and how far/fast the plunger moves. Doesn't affect idle. Doesn't affect WOT. Does affect how the carb/engine responds when you press on the gas and go from idle to RPMs. The PV in a Holley is at the bottom of the float chamber and opens up when the vacuum goes below a certain point. It is supposed to open up and enrich the mixture at WOT. But when you put multi V8 carbs on a banger, you have altered the vacuum at each carb. My understanding is that the 4.5 PV should be a good choice for your application. On a Stromberg, the accelerator pump works pretty much the same way. But there is a power valve on the Strombergs and it works totally different than the power valve on a Holley. I think maybe it controls the size of the orifice that the accelerator pump squirts through? Hope this helps a little, I'm sure folks will chime in if I am wrong on any of this. Keep on bangin'! Will Kimble www.kimblemandolins.com PS: Don't you have a '30-31 Phaeton body? What are your plans for it, my wife and two small kids would love to know! LOL!
Hey Ryan, I recommended the Les Andrews book - there are two volumes and both are good but the first one (maroon) would be most useful for you at this point. Take care, Will Kimble
I've got one that has been shortened and welded by a very competent welder, but I'm still a little concerned about cutting and welding an 80 year old steering arm. My two-year old son likes to go to nursery in my tudor, so I need the peace of mind. Just found out that Snyders sell a brand new shorter chrome moly pitman arm that hasn't been cut and welded. Something like $30, which is good value. I reckon I'll be calling them today.
I thought I would tell you guys about my "A" fun. Ive been working on the floor in my car. Stupid mistake, but as I was pulling out the damaged rear section of sub-frame,... Wham! Down to my knees, steady stream of blood running down off my head. As you can see in the pic of the car, Trunk is not held up the best. I guess I need to invest in the stock piece to hold it open better Or I guess I could have taken the deck lid off too? I shaved my hair off, so I could see If I needed stitches.
I have to kids myself that love to ride in my A and I would trust old ford steel over some new part that cost 30 bucks even if it is made in the us it could have steel from china. I have seen a lot of racecar parts fail becouse of china chrome moly and mild steel. As long as your welder did not just butt weld the arm I would bank on ford just my 2 cents Bill
I HOPE YOUR HAIR GROSS BACK the stock pc. holds it open to low I hit my head so any time not as good as you but it still sucks take 2 beers and get back to work
I fitted a T spring to the rear of the Fordor recently. Even with one extra leaf it's rather soft - 5-up and it's crashing against the body bolts. Rides nice with less people in it though! Use the A shackles, and swap 'em over. Job's a goodun.
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