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Technical ***August 2019 Banger Thread Hot August Nights***

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by Jiminy, Aug 1, 2019.

  1. 5280A2
    Joined: Sep 8, 2014
    Posts: 118

    5280A2

    Model B is the same as the V8, both the hub and the bearing itself. Original 32 hubs were fitted with a hose that connected to a grease cup on the clutch housing cover for lubrication of the hub where it slides on the bearing retainer. Don't worry about eliminating that if it's in poor shape; they're not really necessary.
     
  2. I am sure, this has been covered before, but I cannot seem to search it out - could remind us, @V4F , of how to do this?
     
  3. 97
    Joined: May 18, 2005
    Posts: 1,583

    97
    Member

    The first carb picture is I think one of the very early bronze Weber 26 DR3 aftermarket carb for the 995cc Balilla. The later 26 IMB 10 and 26IMB 11 were fitted to the 50s/60s Fiat 500 ( Bambina) and are also still available, but I think way to small ,even in multiple carbs for a Model A. The second picture is of two Solex 26FH carbs as fitted ( single)to the early flathead Balilla. 508A
    The OHV version (508B) which came out in 34-37 had Zenith 30 VEIZ or 30VIM .
    As railcarmover said a pair of 34ICT would be a good option for a Model A , as are Australian made Stromberg 1 bbl carbs made for Holdens and Falcons...getting a matching pair is getting difficult though.
    There are many similar early carbs which could be used , however parts are rare and expensive. I recently sold a pair of sand cast 58DCO 3s to a restorer in England for $12000 English pounds ( his offer) and have sent several pairs of 40 IDA 3 Webers (for Porsche) back to Europe for around $5000 pounds.
    I have been reconditioning carbs in New Zealand for over 40 years and have never had a Winfield in the shop, they were never common here.
     
    Last edited: Aug 5, 2019
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  4. BeaverMatt
    Joined: Jun 17, 2013
    Posts: 24

    BeaverMatt
    Member

    Thank you sir!
     
  5. JT1930
    Joined: Jul 1, 2018
    Posts: 188

    JT1930
    Member

    Guys if I run a fuel pump that makes a max of 3psi should I still run a regulator?
     
  6. railcarmover
    Joined: Apr 30, 2017
    Posts: 398

    railcarmover

    Nope
     
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  7. Kiwi 4d
    Joined: Sep 16, 2006
    Posts: 2,716

    Kiwi 4d
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Check the pressure first rather than rely on what’s advertised on the box.
     
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  8. waxhead
    Joined: May 11, 2013
    Posts: 1,120

    waxhead
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from West Oz

    JT1930 See attached for info on fuel pressure and adjusting the float level in the Winfield carb. You should be able to save it somewhere and zoom in enough to read it. I would be hesitant to adjust the float level unless you really have to, and if you do, be very careful, don't want to break anything.
    Winfield carb float fuel pressure.jpg
     
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  9. JT1930
    Joined: Jul 1, 2018
    Posts: 188

    JT1930
    Member

    Thanks all.
     
  10. 97
    Joined: May 18, 2005
    Posts: 1,583

    97
    Member

    Fuel pressure for a Winfield carb is only 1-2 lbs so I would say yes to a regulator,BUT it will need to be an accurate one. Not an elcheapo. As I have said before I use Malpassi with a filter. recently I bought a a box of NOS vintage regulator made by Norson in Australia. I haven't tried one yet however they appear to be very similar to the Malpassi, without a filter. They are preset at 2lbs/sq inch, but are adjustable.
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Aug 6, 2019
  11. railcarmover
    Joined: Apr 30, 2017
    Posts: 398

    railcarmover

    running a '30 and needing only 1-2 lbs pressure I wouldn't use a pump at all,you'll develop adequate pressure to 1/4 tank or so.28/29 tank is lower..fuel pressure is kind of a misleading term,what your looking for is adequate flow,which come with about 1 to 2 lbs pressure. I don't know winfield carbs,but given the size of your float and bowl it should hold pretty good pressure,it doesn't look like 3lbs would overcome the float
     
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  12. JT1930
    Joined: Jul 1, 2018
    Posts: 188

    JT1930
    Member

    71CA65A1-910D-43CA-8923-DEC41D6DE16B.jpeg I have a good amount of pitch from firewall filter to top of carb. Going to do some testing this week. Run the car down to below 1/2-1/4 tank see how it acts. I'll have a hug of fuel in the trunk so I dont get stuck in the event.
     
    Last edited: Aug 6, 2019
  13. I have a 31 and have been running a BB Winfield for years. You should be able to run your tank almost dry. 20181007_115641.jpg
     
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  14. Binger
    Joined: Apr 28, 2008
    Posts: 1,655

    Binger
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from wyoming

    I use the Malapassi filter unit on my coupe. I love it. Works well and looks old with the glass bowl on it.
     
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  15. RussTee
    Joined: Mar 25, 2008
    Posts: 1,204

    RussTee
    Member

    I run one of these but they are a bit hard to adjust good once adjusted its a bit hard to find reulators for low pressures
     
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  16. JT1930
    Joined: Jul 1, 2018
    Posts: 188

    JT1930
    Member

    D6261E42-CAE9-42E1-A0A0-95247F556E71.jpeg

    Well I guess if Ed didn’t need a pump I shouldn’t either. Haha. Look at the fuel line to the carb.
     
  17. johnneilson
    Joined: Apr 12, 2011
    Posts: 1,083

    johnneilson
    Member

    He probably had a hand pump inside to pressurize the tank............
     
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  18. JT1930
    Joined: Jul 1, 2018
    Posts: 188

    JT1930
    Member

    Maybe. Maybe not.
     
  19. G Baese
    Joined: Jul 30, 2013
    Posts: 23

    G Baese
    Member

    Here is another portion of the February 1931 Winfield News regarding the cylinder head and carb test on a "stock" 1930 Model A roadster, except for removal of the top and windshield and the Winfield head, manifold and Model S carb of course... Also an excerpt from the Winfield Model SR (with accelerator pump) carburetor manual indicating a separate float for gravity and one for pressure feed. The Model S (no accelerator pump) instruction sheet I have does not describe separate floats.

    Winfield_News_2:31.jpg
    SR_Floats.jpg
     
  20. JT1930
    Joined: Jul 1, 2018
    Posts: 188

    JT1930
    Member

    588D3FCE-6CB1-4D31-8921-56A07153319E.jpeg

    So far so good with no fuel pump. Been on a few hills below 1/2 tank. Great weather these 2 days also.
     
  21. Looks good JT. Always liked that color.
     
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  22. deuce295
    Joined: Dec 9, 2005
    Posts: 226

    deuce295
    Member

    Stromberg 97 help ---- Have a single 97 on my model A motor. 6:1 head with a Stipe 340 cam, 1.5" intake valves and a header. It is a new English 97 with the stock jetting. It runs really nice but has a slight stumble coming off idle. I have tried changing the W and S setting on the accelerator pump arm and still has the stumble in either position. I have noticed that if I cover the intake some with my hand it will eliminate the stumble. That makes me think it is slightly lean when I crack the throttle, if I'm thinking right. I am no carb tuning expert but would a one step up on the jets be the right move or are the main jets not really involved right off idle. I know running down the road at speed it seems to run really nice and the plugs are a real light brown. Anyway should I be looking at the mains or the power jet or something else. Any thoughts appreciated.
     
  23. walls
    Joined: Oct 6, 2005
    Posts: 534

    walls
    Member

    Anyone have a link for Winfield service bulletins?
    I was looking for #6 on floats specifically, but I was hoping they all were available somewhere.
     
  24. 97
    Joined: May 18, 2005
    Posts: 1,583

    97
    Member

    First I would check the ignition, and any air leaks downstream of the throttle plates. (Do Make sure the pump jets are delivering fuel as soon as you crack the throttle.) What distributor and coil and plugs are you using? Manual advance or auto (in the distributor)? check the advance springs and curve if it is aftermarket, if original manual advance system try a little more advance. Carbs are rarely the first step in curing a stumble off idle.... just the place that gets the blame. After that if I had to change the carb settings I would check the float level and raise it a little if it is at stock spec or lower. Power valve might be the next step. BUT only if everything else was perfect. Main jet has little to NO effect off idle. ONE CHANGE AT A TIME!!!!
     
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  25. deuce295
    Joined: Dec 9, 2005
    Posts: 226

    deuce295
    Member

    Thanks 97, I will look at the things you mention. It is the stock manual ignition advance, Flame thrower coil and Champion W18 plugs gapped at 35. It generally runs really good except for the slight stumble coming off idle. I'll check the things you mentioned. Really appreciate the input.
     
  26. Jet96
    Joined: Dec 24, 2012
    Posts: 1,109

    Jet96
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from WY

    I agree^^^ My uncle told me when I was probably 13 or so that the first place to start troubleshooting a carb issue was at the distributor haha. Are you still running 6volt ? Your flamethrower might not be helping you. If 12volt, never mind. Might bump the timing up just a tad, it doesn't take much. 6:1 is pretty safe ...
     
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  27. railcarmover
    Joined: Apr 30, 2017
    Posts: 398

    railcarmover

    Check your float level,on an emulsion tube carb its critical.
     
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  28. deuce295
    Joined: Dec 9, 2005
    Posts: 226

    deuce295
    Member

    Appreciate the replies to my carb stumble issue. Busy with work right now but will try these suggestions when I get back at it. Was thinking about the float level. Will check it. Thanks for the input.
     
  29. walls
    Joined: Oct 6, 2005
    Posts: 534

    walls
    Member

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