Technical ***August 2017 Banger Meet - The Dog Days and Bangers***

I gave up on the site as it's not current or up to date. There for almost useless unless you care about three days ago. I just use the phone and call them ... when the phones are working out there.

 

Model a engine gurus please help...
So I purchased an engine for my 31 roadster. It's in the frame now & I decided to drop the pan to check tolerances. Looking up I can see these stamped metal pieces that ride on the wrist pin and fit inside the piston skirt. I can see that on my number four it is on the opposite side than all other pistons and it appears to be cracked and slightly out of place.
What is this piece called? How serious is this? Can it be replaced without tear down? Is plastigauge the best way to check tolerance or the "tin foil" method?
Thanks in advance!

 

If my diet allowed popcorn I'd be making some right now

 

And it does pop at roughly 350-390 degrees Fahrenheit

 

never seen things like what you have in your pistons ........... sorry no help

 

Piston "expanders" Meant to enlarge the OD of the piston. Toss all pistons and buy new ones
Before you buy, see if block needs boring. I would bet it does.

Herb

 

wow , never would have thought of that .................. thanks

 

Very interesting... thanks. Will have to tear deeper into my engine project.
Thanks!


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Just returned from Bonneville.
Courses rough and sometimes damp/slippery.
Not the best, not the worst ever seen.
Was working on gearing, had 157 at end of mile 2, still accelerating, just now need to get on the 3 mile course.
The Flathead was fired up first time ever on Tuesday, ran 99.44 avg at mile 2, exit over 100. not too bad in the coupe.
will upload pics as they come in.

John

 

so I'm presuming all went well . motor performed as expected . glad you had fun ........... steve

 

salt lake crash . to support vehicles hit head on . 1 dead & 5 injured . very sad event ............

 

The news report was not totally correct. My daughter and Martinez laid out the traditional pit area that we have had for years a week ago Tuesday, this area would contain 20 cars crews and vehicles. In the center usually Martinez has a spot, but car is broken, then Steve Nelson and then the Sonoma Racers and etc. It was 4 members of the Sonoma Racers that were involved in the accident and a husband & wife from the 711, 811 and 911 roadster group.

The Sonoma Racers with car owner Rick McCambridge (Green Pickle drop tank Lakester) were traveling from the starting line area to our pit area to bring the car up to put in line. The other car a mini van was traveling to the starting line area, both on the "return road" which is a very wide area posted 25 mph. I don't know if anyone really knows why this happened, but that is not the issue, we have injured fellow racers here that need our prayers.

The deceased gentleman in the article was not the driver of the pickup shown. Rick was driving, the deceased was next to the right hand door, the next individual was airlifted and reported to have life threatening injuries, the next had injuries and Rick had a pelvis fracture and extensive facial lacerations.

Getting first hand information now that most are back or traveling back is going to be difficult, I know that family and friends are now with at least two of those in the hospital. Friends here will monitor their situations and we will provide transportation if needed as they are released. I was hoping to have lunch with Rick and his next door race car garage neighbor next week. If possible while not a family member, I will try to get location info so they could receive cards and etcetera.
callcoy Santa Rosa & Nashville

 

My best thoughts and well wishes to all involved. Condolences to the family of the man who lost his life.


.

 

thank you for the informed report . very sad ! ...................

 

Update and correction Bonneville Accident
The accident did not occur on the return road but the entry road. We had left the salt before the unfortunate incident occurred and were informed by phone. Those that have not attended a meet there would find it difficult to figure out where you should be driving as you leave the pavement and now you are on a white road a hundred thousand acre wide. There are only cones that will direct you toward Registration, you angle off right to find the 3 starting lines, somewhat straight ahead for spectator parking and past Registration you may find the Pits, miles from the end of the road.

This road is posted 55 MPH but many exceed that and many first timers and more casual drivers much slower, causing drivers to dart all over the place. It is a challenge to drive this road you can have people coming at you at 360 degrees.

The unfortunate thing is the report I got this morning that as of last night all 3 individuals in the pickup were still in ICU. The pickup was old enough that it would not have air bags. I haven't heard about the condition of the two passengers in the mini-van but it appears that their air bags deployed, I am hoping that their injuries are much less severe, or hopefully closer to minor.

 

Just about to install another new head gasket in my 28 model A and thought I would seek any words of wisdom before I proceed to put it back together. It's a model B bottom end with a Thomas head. Big valves lumpy cam and a Holley/Weber two BBL carb. Presently I plan to install the pictured head gasket and follow the provided instructions to the letter. And maybe not push the old girl so hard up hills on the highway.

 

I have used those head gaskets on the same set up B block and Thomas head with mixed results
had much better luck using A model copper clad gaskets and blocking the extra steam holes

 

good update on bville .........

 

Thanks, that's the sort of input I am looking for, real life experiences warts and all. Any and all experiences requested.

 

On another note, each time I take the head off I see the distributor drive shaft is all rusted up! Any suggestions on that one? Like maybe take the shaft out every weekend and grease it.

 

Drill a hole in tbe block at the drive and install a grease zirt.

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In the past I have installed a grease cup or an oiler if there's room

Here you see a grease cup on an original tach drive Note that this drive has a way to switch rotation and the grease cup and S/W drive. These were made to fit a lot of differing engines. If you see one at a swapmeet GRAB IT!
I have been using one of these since 1990 trouble free.

 

I have been thinking about this rust and corrosion problem. First I checked the distributor (Mallory) diameter where it fits into the cylinder head and find it about .003" under one inch. It was a very tight fit into the cylinder head so I ran a one inch reamer through the head and now have a very nice fit with some room to move. And some room for the never seize I plan on using. Presently I plan on drilling a hole that meets the bottom chamfer on the distributor housing. Then installing an elbow and vent pipe up to a convenient area so I can add a drop of oil of some sort every now and then. Can anyone see a problem here before I start drilling holes?

 

392 hemi piston in Model B block about .090" sticking above the deck. I've got about .037" clearance between the top of the piston and the stock B head based on measurements and assumption of how much the head gasket is going to compress. We'll see how many gaskets I have to sacrifice.

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Did I imagine it? I thought somebody mentioned that the model A did not have the best of crankcase ventilation. That's why I ask these questions because after a couple of days that casual remark hit home. I have a couple of Corvairs and this is the setup they used...


I am going to drill the head I am going to install metering orifice in a line to a vacuum port. Connection will be made with a hose so I can shoot some lube down into the distributor mounting well from time to time as well.

Thanks for the comments, this may be the answer to all the seized up distribute problems, time will tell.

Of course I shall have to pull the distributor from time to time and report the results.

 

Well OK, but yeas ago, when we first encountered this problem, we solved it quick and easy!.

Take a triangular file and file a vertical groove about .040-.050" deep down the hole that the distributor fits in the head. Now file a horizontal groove across the face that the distributor stops against, connecting with the vertical one, and about the same size. Just the small amount of blowby escaping up and out that channel was enough to stop the rusting for my buddy and I.

Herb

 

Let's know, how that turns out, @winduptoy!

 

I got the head on last night. I'm trying to get work to leave me alone so I can get it the rest of the way together. I'll let you know...

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i have encountered moisture problem on distributor . trapped moisture from motor . a pain but that's an "A"