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#@%*August 2013 Banger Meet #$^&

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Crazydaddyo, Aug 1, 2013.

  1. Ole-Henry has been running good for some time now, and this past weekend I was at the 2nd Vestjydsk Grusbaneløb (Western Jutlandic Dirt track race).
    Was pretty fast, got only beaten by a '50(?) Dodge - but got too wide in the soft turn, so the other banger-guy, Allan Stendrup, overtook me on the inside, leaving me as second looser (3rd place). Pic's 'n' comments here: http://dannerrsblog.blogspot.dk/2013/08/vestjydsk-grusbanelb-2.html
     
  2. Timberbeast
    Joined: Jun 28, 2009
    Posts: 74

    Timberbeast
    Member

    Bluto, How does one drill it concentric so the pilot shaft lnes up with the pilot bearing? I'd like to give it a try.
     
  3. RussTee
    Joined: Mar 25, 2008
    Posts: 1,186

    RussTee
    Member

    Magnus run the small rings that fit into the relief in the block and fit into the header (just as fitted on a stock engine) you will have no more trouble blowing gaskets
     
  4. BCCHOPIT
    Joined: Aug 10, 2008
    Posts: 2,586

    BCCHOPIT
    Member

    That will only work if you didn't open up the ports :)


    Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
     
  5. A Rodder
    Joined: Jul 13, 2008
    Posts: 2,477

    A Rodder
    Member

    Let me ask a question re distributors.
    I have the B motor in the Coupe I just got. Has an A distrubutor in it that presumibly needs some attention.

    I have had great luck with the FS distributor for my past A. But I put that one in without running it on a stock distributor first. I also ran a BC Chopit intake with a 97, a header and Simmons High Speed Head. The combination worked well.

    With the Coupe I need to spend about $80 going thru the distributor and rebuilding it thoroughly.

    So the question is with a properly tuned STOCK distributor will I gain much going to the FS? Or should I pony up the $400 for the FS unit?
     
  6. Rokkern
    Joined: Apr 9, 2012
    Posts: 69

    Rokkern
    Member
    from Norway

    What cam specs are you guys running ? And on what is your combo and approx hp and rpm sweet spot ?
     
  7. Bluto
    Joined: Feb 15, 2005
    Posts: 5,114

    Bluto
    Member Emeritus

    Blue a piece of steel and lay it out with dividers.

    I my case it's a Ford trans to GMC bellhousing
     
  8. RussTee
    Joined: Mar 25, 2008
    Posts: 1,186

    RussTee
    Member

    but then you open up the reliefs as i did
     
  9. Timberbeast
    Joined: Jun 28, 2009
    Posts: 74

    Timberbeast
    Member

    Thanks, I'll have to try that.
     
  10. Bluto
    Joined: Feb 15, 2005
    Posts: 5,114

    Bluto
    Member Emeritus

    Once you've got everything located then stamp each center

    I have a mill and a circle cutter but ifyour careful you can use a drillpress

    If your lucky and have holrs that go thru you can use transfer punches too once the center hole is cut.

    Your only marking and cutting.drilling 9 holes normally
     
  11. mndodge
    Joined: Jan 2, 2010
    Posts: 200

    mndodge
    Member

    I'm not trying to interrupt A Rodder's question about distributors, but I wanted to ask bangers in general.
    I have read where guys prefer the "B" over the "A" blocks and I don't hear much about the "C's"?
    I am not looking to build one to climb phone poles or break the land speed record, I am in the early stages of a 29 pickup project and picked up a rolling running chassis last weekend for it all to sit on.
    I know that with the original A motor any add on parts are pretty limited seeing how it is stock other than maybe adding a down draft intake with an 81 on it with a header added also after that I think adding any other head would only take the life right out of it?
    So my real question for all you that know your stuff.....I have an A, B and C motor I can build and what would be the preference for you guys?
    Like I mentioned earlier I'm not trying to put together a super motor, I would like to have a 6:1 finned head sitting on top and I also have a wico mag for it and then add a lake style header like the one A Rodder's had on the sedan he built and a few other finned parts also.
    I do have a 39 trans also and after seeing some of the stuff you guys have posted pictures of....it just has the early traditional and simple look I want, any input you can give is appreciated and my email is dtssuperior@yahoo.com if you'd rather send it there instead of cluttering the monthly thread with answers to questions that maybe get asked a lot???
    Thanks for any info you can share....
     
  12. ebtm3
    Joined: May 23, 2007
    Posts: 837

    ebtm3
    Member

    If you are starting with a bare block-

    The A block has smaller main bearings, and more rudimentary oiling to them

    The B blocks are thinner in the deck surface, and much more prone to cracking around the exhaust valve seats.

    There is no C block

    Virtually any and all speed or hop up parts are usable on either block, except that because the B rod journals--as well as the mains--are larger, aftermarket rods for an A will not fit a B and vice-verse (without machine work).

    In a nutshell, that's it.

    A street engine, built on an A block will in all probability give you all the mileage that you will likely put on it.

    Herb
     
  13. mndodge
    Joined: Jan 2, 2010
    Posts: 200

    mndodge
    Member

    Thanks for the info...
    I was wondering about that illusive "C" block....hahaaaa, my dad keeps bringing it up and I haven't read or seen anything about them, now I know why!!!!
     
  14. A Rodder
    Joined: Jul 13, 2008
    Posts: 2,477

    A Rodder
    Member

    Maybe he is thinking of the C that's stamped on the B motors head?


    Anyone have input re my distributor questions?
     
  15. Well then, it would seem your dad is "old school". Because of the introduction of the counter balanced crank and the letter "C" cast into the head the "C" engine crank combination was believed by most started in 1933 and after wards. I know, I know they came out earlier! The local Ford garage parts men often used the "C" terminology when referring to the 33 34 engines especially the crank or water pumps. One of my brother in law's was a Ford parts man in the late 40's and early 50's. So, in later years, 80's or 90's, when the Ford archives were searched and found no "C" designation was used by Ford so all the "newbies" jumped on the "old school" guys and said,"Your wrong" "Your wrong" and the great debate has followed. If you heard the term "C" crank then you would know it was the counterbalanced "B" crank. "C" heads used a different water pump, the heads with a "B" on them were higher compression "A" heads, commonly called "police heads" Sure wish you guy's coulda been there!!
     
    Last edited: Aug 14, 2013
  16. I never cared much for the "A" distributor and I have used FS, Wico, Mallory, and now I'm running a Ford model "B" which is a simpler design and can be tuned with modified or "new" weights and springs from FS. I use Stipe point cams purchased from Renners as most suppliers cams are rough and some are not concentric, and I use stock points. Renners will also suppiy you with a new shaft if needed as most "B" distributors were not drilled through the bushings at the oilers. You can buy round modern looking distributor caps and wires from most suppliers. Here is a pic
     

    Attached Files:

  17. Pierre H
    Joined: Feb 11, 2007
    Posts: 59

    Pierre H
    Member
    from france

    GMC Bubba sells a distributor for Ford Banger, A, B, C, G28T ... He makes those out of an industrial Mallory unit. I've order one, not try already, but I already got Bubba stuff, should be ok.
     
  18. Magnus B
    Joined: Jun 19, 2005
    Posts: 885

    Magnus B
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Well that would work of course. Unless I did such a sloppy job welding my last exhaust manifold. I used 2 shortened stock manifolds and the ports didn't really line up after I was finished. I actually used rings as locators during the welding, but after they cracked and I rewelded them a couple of times it was just a mess. One advantage with the is that olny the header is held in place by them so I can remove the intake without removing the exhaust.

    I forgot to add the pics of the new header. A bit to large tubes, but that what they had at the store.
     

    Attached Files:

  19. Gary in MN
    Joined: Jun 27, 2008
    Posts: 94

    Gary in MN
    Member

    Last edited: Aug 17, 2013
  20. mndodge
    Joined: Jan 2, 2010
    Posts: 200

    mndodge
    Member

  21. steve hackel
    Joined: Mar 5, 2010
    Posts: 193

    steve hackel
    Member

    Hello to all; just to add more fuel to the monthly fire of questions & answers... I am doing this one more time in my life, and unless you are as old as Jim Brierley & others of the 4 ever 4 group from 40 years ago, none of you younger fellas ever heard of me! Building a 30 coupe; B' engine, New Zealand quick change with a 3:78 base R&P, 7:00 x 16 rears and kelsey wires. The T-5 trans is my destination, but I am looking for the best gear ratio set for my 1st gear choice and final drive O.D. ratio. With all of your collective experiences, what would any of you suggest that I look for when talking to the trans people? My application will be 75% street driven and the balance to keep up with traffic on the local 4 lanes and expressways. I believe that the quick change solves the final drive issues, but I do not know where to start with the 1st gear choices that are available with the T-5 sets. Best wishes to all the Banger Boys. Steve Hackel
     
  22. Crazydaddyo
    Joined: Apr 6, 2008
    Posts: 3,122

    Crazydaddyo
    Member

    Gary,
    Thanks for the tech. I added a link to your post to the info reference list I post on the front page.

    .
     
  23. RussTee
    Joined: Mar 25, 2008
    Posts: 1,186

    RussTee
    Member

    Nice work magnus now try building one for a right hand drive just to test your skills Ha Ha
     
  24. colinsmithson
    Joined: Jan 27, 2013
    Posts: 382

    colinsmithson
    Member

    I will 2nd that especially have booster and master cylinder under the pedals
    LHD :):):)
     
  25. SJR
    Joined: Feb 17, 2011
    Posts: 126

    SJR
    Member

    I have a Jeep distributer on one of my A engines, not sure the year, was off a early 4 cylinder, it requires being turned down a bit on a lathe and the shaft shortened, just thought I would throw that out as another option,
     
  26. colinsmithson
    Joined: Jan 27, 2013
    Posts: 382

    colinsmithson
    Member

    I use a distributer from a 39/40 Willy,s small change to the shaft
    stock advance curve is very good
     
  27. Crazydaddyo
    Joined: Apr 6, 2008
    Posts: 3,122

    Crazydaddyo
    Member

    Here is a follow up to the earlier post about the early A blocks.
    This picture was taken from the Ford barn. it is if the inside of A engine serial # 6100.
    You can see the "Beavertail" crank and one of the extra cam bearings.

    [​IMG]
     
  28. RussTee
    Joined: Mar 25, 2008
    Posts: 1,186

    RussTee
    Member

    Also interesting with the early engines is the fact that many of the eary speedway drivers favoured the multi plate clutches a thing we nowdays shrink well away from . This was due to them when new being a very good clutch ideal for that type of racing nothing like the tired versions we see now that give nothing but trouble.
     
  29. colinsmithson
    Joined: Jan 27, 2013
    Posts: 382

    colinsmithson
    Member

    The early multi plate were used because those speedway cars were bump started no starter so you could then machine all the outside the flywheel down to the clutch which gave you a very small light weight flywheel plus the clutch were very good and never got oil on them important as the old speedway bangers leaked heaps from the rear main
     
  30. Interesting! :-D
    Has anyone got pictures of this?


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