#@%*August 2013 Banger Meet #$^&

Colin
I am running a stock engine, cam, with some pressure to the front and centre main. The head is a Snyder 6.1, ford prefect dizzy home made extractors and the twin 1 1/2 SUs, I put in a set of stock MGB needles and jet but had to wind the jets right out to get it to run Ok. The original needles work much better, someone had filled a flat on each at the top that richens it up at lower RPM, power I think is 50% better with the head carbs dizzy and extractors over the stock set up but it knocks when I open the throttle to far. I have been thinking of getting a colour tune plug to see what it is burning like.
Where did you get you cam ground and have your block inserted?
Brendan

 

Not that it's any help, but I belive mine is a welded and machined original cast iron head. I mounted it, before I came to think of measuring the volume, but it has been running good.

 

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And this is a HAL DO for Ford A. Here on a B block with insert mains

 

More head talk please ! I have no experience myself, and it all seems like a jungle to me.
Curious about how the stock "filled" head is working, as it would be cheap and managable to do at home, except machining the sparkplug.

What kind of cams specs are working good in the banger ?
With the low revs I´m suspecting short duration, with a tight lobe seperation like 106 to get some overlap would be nice, with lift as much as it is possible without hitting the head or loosing longevity, am I on the right track thinking this ?

 

Not to derail the conversation, but can someone post pics of a stock A crank, and the different B and or C cranks?

I have a B motor and I am trying to identify the crank but honestly I really don't know the differences.
The motor isn't turning easily, I looked in where the fuel pump goes but I really don't know how to identify it.

 

Brendan for local cam grinder I use Clive in FTG he has my list of cam specs and notes
In the USA Jim B
for insert main I was using old bob in dandy but he gave work just lately and the young guys there stuffed the last block on me a really good B block which as know you are hard for us find
now waiting to get into a mates machine shop and redo it my self
Colin

 

Joe a B motor must have a B or C crank they have bigger journals than an A crank
check the engine pulley long pulley=B engine short pulley=C engine if original
or drop the sump look for count weights
Colin

 

I was under the impression, the early b motors had no counterbalanced cranks.

Does having a 3bolt water pump mean anything?
I am a few days away from being able to pull the pan.

 

There were three different B cranks. First was non counterbalanced, second had sweated on counter weights, third was one piece. The best way I've found to look at the crank is through the oil fill. Pull the tube out of the block and look through there.
All B engines had the three bolt water pump/head. On the pulleys, the 33-34 four cylinders had a shorter crank pulley, a shorter water pump, and a different front timing cover that moved the generator back.
I'll get a few pics of the cranks for you.

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Ill compare the pullies to an A engine

 

Couple things to consider. 80 plus years have passed since the B engine hit the market, so any external parts could have been changed in that time. The 32 B engine has same pulley as the A as far as I know. Also, there are plenty of post production replacement and industrial engines out there.


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I beg to differ, The first, normally called the B, had no counterweights, the second normally called the C was forged with counterweights. The third, normally called the BB, were B cranks with swaged (pressed and pinned ) on counterweights. The BB cranks were installed in Ford factory rebuilt engines. I don't know if the BB cranks were dealer items.

 

That may well be so Bill. Your knowledge of this stuff is far greater than mine. I'm just going by what I've bought and seen. I've got two post 34 dated diamond blocks with the one piece C cranks, a couple B engines with one piece C cranks, and 2 B engines with swaged/pinned cranks.
Again, you've been doing this a lot longer than I've been alive, so I'm not doubting your info, but it does seem unlikely that Ford would have made the one piece forged counterbalance crank, then gone back to the non counterbalance crank and added weights.

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Carter

Like many things "Unlikely in hindsight"

Henry made mistakes

What I see is a lot of busted Ford A's made into WWII stuff.......

 

Maybe somebody just bought the block and put their existing crank in it!

 

I will pull the pan this weekend and post a picture.

Thanks for some insight on this, Joe

 

I think your forgetting that these were not hot rods but cheap transport most of their life

Almost no one gave a shit about them!!

You think the average guy knew any of these differences????

 

Ford did not "go back" to the added on weights, if you will take the time to reread what I posted you will read the words "Ford rebuilt." If you read enough of Ford's history you will read of the Ford motor company factory rebuilt engines. The BB's were B engines rebuilt by Ford at plants around the US and sold on an exchange basis by Ford Dealers. Just as they sold rebuilt A's. Some speculate they were intended for Ford trucks because of the BB designation, I don't know and I don't give a

 

For A Rodder.

Here are some pictures of what I have out of engines.

First pictures are one piece counterbalanced crank.








Next 2 are counterbalanced with swaged/pinned counterweights.

 

Does this look an a decent crank (and block) to start with for a performance build ?

Wondering if the crank is the right counterweighted type. I find it a little hard to be 100% sure from the pics. Not knowing exactly what to look for.

It´s for sale 150 miles from me.

 

It's Not a counterweight crank but that is not the end of the world if the price is right.


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where do you guys hook a chain to when pulling the engine?

 

They sell eye bolts that screw into the spark plug holes for engine pulling. Sold at Bert's Snyders etc


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How bout if the head is off?

 

I hook one chain from the intake manifold bolt to the top starter bolt and 1 chain from the front intake manifold bolt to the boss where the generator mounts on the timing cover.I use a load leveler to connect the two Chains.

'

 

That looks like an early A engine. The crank is an early A "beaver tail " crank.

'

 

daddyO
how can you tell its early block?

 

I just just stand on the drivers side and pick it up then!!!!


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Thanks!! I told the seller and he admitted he wasn't sure himself. It was advertised as a B engine.