I know of a young lad that has develped some fine bodywork skills and now wants to learn more about the time honoured skill of leading. My question is.......where could he start to look (books,websites,video's,courses,equipment suppliers,etc...) Thanks again for all your help!!
Eastwood sells a kit that has everything to get started. Paddles, files, lead,tallow,tinning butter,and a DVD, or VHS tape explaining the process. But be careful, they also sell a lead free solder kit. I have no idea what that means.
Thanks for the info .......sounds like the Eastwood kit comes complete with everything a beginner needs. Question......does this new type of non lead solder work as well as the old fashion lead? Meaning does stand up over time?
The new stuff melts at a slightly higher temperature, so the window between too hot and not hot enough is smaller. Can make it more difficult to work with. Terry Cowan put out a book on Leading,which is still available, I posted a link here recently.
Unkl Ian thanks for the tech info on the new solder. I'll try to track down that book by Terry Cowan. I certainly appreciate all the info!!
Should be able to get it here: http://www.wallheim.com/metalshapers/index.html Have it shipped by Snail Mail,so you don't get hit for Brokerage Fees at the border.
Thanks alot Unkl Ian for the website.............I was going through all the past tech posts on metal work and coming up with nothing on Mr. Cowan........you saved me alot of time!! Hope to have the pleasure of meeting up with you at Autorama in afew weeks. Thanks again.
I always keep the floor swept then after i'm done filing save my waste. When i get a gallon pail filled of scrap i have a melting pot to melt the waste down and reuse it on another job. You cant do that with bondo.
I do this too, but I usually use some new lead with it. I was told that the trace metals tend to disappear as it heats and recools. Don't know if it's true, just bringing it up as something to think about. Also, if you use steel wool to brush off the solder paste, use new all the time, or try bronze wool. It doesn't rust and cause problems later. I use a rag, but be careful you don't catch it on fire.
Be VERY AWARE that the FUMES from re-melting are VERY TOXIC !! I've done my share of reclaiming my drippings that way and gotten very ill from it. Do your melting in a really well ventilated area--preferably outdoors . danzee
Definitely. You don't want lead poisioning. I use a respirator with stacked cartridges: black or yellow (organic vapor) and pink (fine particle). These 2 used together are supposed to filter out lead. I also get a blood test for lead every year. BTW most often it's the acid fumes that get you. If your vaporizing lead, you're getting it way too hot.
Wow.......thanks guy's for all the tip's. I told the young lad to monitor the HAMB this weekend for this post. He should be very pleased with the great HAMB member support he has been offered in the way of knowledge and experience!!!
Hey, Tell the "lad" to hunt down any restoration shops in his area to find where, up there, they buy their lead. A commerical plumbing shop may carry 70/30 lead, but it's not likely. The new formulations for lead do take some getting use to. More heat means more chances for metal distortion, when leading a panel. Ya may suggest that he pratice on semi-high crowned panels, which are a little easier to fill than low crowned panels, with less chance of heat distortion...... especially if he is forced to go with the higher melting "new solder". Swankey Devils C.C.
Thanks for the low down on another source of product and info ........your certainly a swankey kat.........cheers pimpin paint!!
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