attaching body panels

what's "right"? what works? what's cheap?

Dzus seem spendy, and of a later time--

Sheet metal screws? holes drilled into the bars of the cage, or holes drilled into tabs welded to cage?

tack weld everything on? pop rivets? 10-32 screws with nuts?

I'm ready to attach my firewall, but don't know what's legal, what's frowned upon, or what's just downright wrong.

 

I Dzus fastened all my panels on(Because I already hadf them) But 10/32s drilled and tapped into tabs should hold plenty fine I would think, Just do what you think looks sano....

 

We went with sheet metals into tabs.

 

1/4" bolts into tabs welded on the roll cage.
Robert

 

Duck Tape!

Actually, Dzus are "period correct" being used on many aircraft in WWII, so if they make you happy go with them.

I'm sure that there were many methods used in the beginnings so for authenticity most anything will work.

 

I attach all mine with 1/4 inch bolts that are in nuts that fit in holes and then they swell and spread when they are tightened. You can buy them at fastener stores. I got mine at Shamrock Bolt and Nut, I don't know if they are a national chain or not. I wouldn't recommend sheetmetal screws because they hold the best one time and then the hole enlarges and they fall out. Roy

 

Roy,

I think what your talking about are called "nut zerts". I think you can get them at any good hardware store. I have a bunch of them in several sizes and threads.

Ron

 

so drilling the roll bar, and either tapping it directly or adding nut-serts is a no-no?

 

You can use a dimple die tool and dimple the firewall and use countersunk machine screws into tabs with dimples as well welded to the cage. the dimples not only sit flush they also help locate the panel. For panels you plan on taking off and on a lot and have limited access to the back side Dzus fasteners are a hot ticket. If you need some plans or a quick tech on making a lowbuck dimple die tool for this let me know and i can whip something up.

Chris

 

Yep, drilling the roll bar and or cage at all is an NHRA hand slapper unless you tube the hole per their dictums. And they'd still prefer you didn't.
General rules paragraph 4:4, about half way down for sfi spec'd stuff, they tend to use that as their reference for other stuff as well.

 

d-zus fasteners are the way to go for access and ease of removal of the panel. if you don't go with d-zus fasteners don't drill the roll bar that just seems wrong, weld on a tab

 

perfect.

thanks a million again gang!!!

 

WWII surplus dzus are fairly cheap to buy, compared to purchasing them for automotive us try Aerotrader at Chino or G&J at Ontario both outside LA in California. Try 55s or 53s.
ceegrey

 

I had another thought on attaching the firewall-- what about little slits, like dremel cutoff wheel size, with a hose clamp running around the tube and through the slit?

 

Using 1/4 20 pan head or slot head bolts would be period-correct,

Better yet the bolts are a good way to move the project along quicker. Then later, kike next year, you can change over to Dzus fasteners.

Just place all your bolt tabs with a future update to Dzus fasteners in mind.

 

My apologies to the Jewish Community,

I meant to say "like" next year.

 

I tried that once, my slots tore at the slot ends on their own over a period of time. Not sure how to combat it as I just switched to sheet metal screws and haven't tried it since.

 

You know, If you drill a small hole at each end of the cut, It won't rip as easy...Aircraft trick..

 

That's what the "edit" button is for.

 

440, what edit button?

 

Bottom row of buttons on the right in each post. On your own posts an "edit" button's added to the existing three (qoute, multi-quote & quick reply) for your editing. You can also cancel a post of your own completely if wanted when in edit mode.

Just use the edit button in the post of yours that you want to edit.

 

Would "the powers that be" accept a firewall with slits cut in it?

 

When building the car it is natural to think you will terminate the side and cowl panels at the firewall. Like there was a rule or something. In fact this is very difficult to do.

An easier method is to extend the side and cowl panels an inch or two forward past the firewall. This means you can use metal screws or bolts or whatever to do the attachment...nobody can see . Once you notice this technique you will see that even most professionally built FEDs use this method.

See attached photos.

 

Wow!

We also ran our side panels past the firewall. The other direction of course, but the same concept.

So why does yours look so nice and ours so plain?

Nice work.

 

Just one comment on sheetmetal screws. Haven't found any yet that don't work lose under vibration unless some sort of locking device is used such as spring steel "tinnerman" nuts, and from experience with their use on aircraft, they are a big painintheass.

Also, its guaranteed that sooner or later you will tear the skin off of some part of your body making contact with them.

 

"6", mine looks better because I take the pictures from farther away.

 

Just leave it alone, I thought it was funny.........When you make a post, Look to your right in those little red squares.. First one says Edit....YIpeeeeee I knew something someone else didn't.....