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Projects Assembling Brookville Roadster/ 40s style Build Thread

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by Nick Agius, Mar 4, 2018.

  1. 5window
    Joined: Jan 29, 2005
    Posts: 9,540

    5window
    Member

    Hire Flop
     
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  2. Flop
    Joined: Jun 8, 2006
    Posts: 3,886

    Flop
    Member

  3. Jake Sippl
    Joined: Nov 11, 2015
    Posts: 276

    Jake Sippl
    Member
    from Detroit MI

    definitely subscribing! digging this build thread!
     
  4. HankAz
    Joined: Mar 28, 2011
    Posts: 98

    HankAz
    Member

    I didn't even know you could get one unassembled. Do you save that much money or is it just easier to ship? Can you get a body as a kit or do you order the pices seperatly? I dont see it on there website.
    Thanks Hank
     
  5. Nick Agius
    Joined: Jul 29, 2015
    Posts: 157

    Nick Agius

    They sell it as a complete kit and It’s quiet a bit cheaper, Definitely worth doing in my case as I’m in Australia, all up landed with taxes it cost around $9000 AUD including air freight to get it here and taxes.
    Assembled bodies sell here for around $13,000 AUD

    My dad reckons it’s just like the Meccano sets I played with as a kid
     
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  6. Nick Agius
    Joined: Jul 29, 2015
    Posts: 157

    Nick Agius

    Thank you! I will leave them out, and screw it together


    Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  7. 5window
    Joined: Jan 29, 2005
    Posts: 9,540

    5window
    Member

    Well I can't find anything later than a 2016 catalog online, but on page 21: AH-100AUN -stock roadster body for a '32 frame-saves you about $1400 plus shipping over assembled. No idea what current prices are. At shop wages of $40/hr, you'd break even at 35 hours. At $70/hr-you'd better build it in less than 20 hours.
     
  8. we ordered them this way for 2 reasons.
    one, we could control the fitment/modify as we went to insure the best alignment possible. The other was for customizing purposes. Such as its a lot easier to raise the wheel opening when its unassembled
    Being able to run a QTR through a planishing hammer saved a lot of hand hammer and dolly work.
     
  9. wheeldog57
    Joined: Dec 6, 2013
    Posts: 3,173

    wheeldog57
    Member

    Thanx for the kind words.
    I received tons of help from fellow HAMBers.
    Glad to help out any way to pay it forward. Good luck and have fun.

    Sent from my E6810 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  10. Nick Agius
    Joined: Jul 29, 2015
    Posts: 157

    Nick Agius

    Well today was a reasonably successful day, I was able to tap the body mount holes. Set up all the wood for the body mounts. Cut away the subframe to fit the step in the frame and started mounting the cowl.
    I was able to find a pretty good photo of a subframe with all the required measurements so I used that basically referred back to that the whole way through setting up mine,
    I took some advice from members previous comments, left the floors unbolted, and used sheet metal screws the whole way through, which was great for adjusting along the way.
    Here are some photos [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]


    Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  11. Jake Sippl
    Joined: Nov 11, 2015
    Posts: 276

    Jake Sippl
    Member
    from Detroit MI

    looking good dude! Loving this build so far!
     
  12. sloppy jalopies
    Joined: Jun 29, 2015
    Posts: 5,256

    sloppy jalopies
    Member

    I did not read every post so I may have missed something...
    At a glance it appears you are not channeling the cowl, but cut the rear subfloor at the rear crossmember, did you run the wooden mounting blocks? ... just my $.02 ...
     
  13. Nick Agius
    Joined: Jul 29, 2015
    Posts: 157

    Nick Agius

    The frame is stepped in the rear, had to cut back the subframe to clear that..
    wooden blocks are used throughout


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  14. sloppy jalopies
    Joined: Jun 29, 2015
    Posts: 5,256

    sloppy jalopies
    Member

  15. Nick Agius
    Joined: Jul 29, 2015
    Posts: 157

    Nick Agius

    Heres the photo i used for subframe reference, May even be off here .... Klar.jpg
     
  16. chev34ute
    Joined: Nov 13, 2011
    Posts: 1,240

    chev34ute
    Member

    Wow 9000 for an unassembled body, that's a lot cheaper. Do they offer separate parts like the quarter panels as well ?
     
  17. Nick Agius
    Joined: Jul 29, 2015
    Posts: 157

    Nick Agius

    Yep, I believe you can buy all panels individually also.



    Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
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  18. Nick Agius
    Joined: Jul 29, 2015
    Posts: 157

    Nick Agius

    Hoping to get the doors hung & quarter panels mounted this weekend,looking to pick up my cowl tank early next week, looking forward to getting it all sized up properly[​IMG]
     
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  19. nunattax
    Joined: Jan 10, 2011
    Posts: 3,058

    nunattax
    Member
    from IRELAND

    looking good so far bud.
     
    Last edited: Mar 10, 2018
  20. 42˚18'N 83˚09'W
    Joined: Jul 29, 2008
    Posts: 168

    42˚18'N 83˚09'W
    Member

    Sorry I'm a little late getting on this bus...
    Several years ago I bought an unassembled 28/29 B'ville Roadster body at a swap meet. What a mistake. Some parts were 28/29 some were 30/31. What a deal??? I tried to find any info I could to put this together to no avail. Finally I called Brookville looking for any drawings, dimensions, anything helpful... Nothing! I kept asking questions and they finally sent my call to Rick in the shop. It turns out Rick and his crew are the guys that assemble the 28/29's in the shop. Rick was GREAT. After picking his brain for a while he said "How about if I drew some sketches"... BINGO!!!
    Attached is a PDF of the sketches Rick did for me. Enjoy...

    Still this was not enough. I spoke with Flop and he filled me in on the areas where I had to cut and weld to make things fit. Thanks again Flop. You would do well to search out Flops build threads.
    Best of luck. I'll be following this thread so if I can help, let me know and I'll do what I can.
     

    Attached Files:

  21. 42˚18'N 83˚09'W
    Joined: Jul 29, 2008
    Posts: 168

    42˚18'N 83˚09'W
    Member

    I forgot to ask where in OZ are you located? The reason I ask is I have friends in Brisbane...
     
  22. subscribe.
     
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  23. Nick Agius
    Joined: Jul 29, 2015
    Posts: 157

    Nick Agius

    Woah, those drawings are awesome! Thanks so much!!!


    I’m also in Brisbane myself! Possible I may know your friends?


    Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
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  24. nunattax
    Joined: Jan 10, 2011
    Posts: 3,058

    nunattax
    Member
    from IRELAND

    information like this is hard to find.probabally because most guys are just barely getting by and most cant draw like flop and even less can understand them.good luck with the build
     
  25. nunattax
    Joined: Jan 10, 2011
    Posts: 3,058

    nunattax
    Member
    from IRELAND

    good couple of years back I worked as a carpenter for this builder (clueless bluffer)on a renovation job.the customer an architect from London .wanted a nice job one morning at a site meeting the builder had the plans fresh off the press..i had a look at them ,the measure ments didn't add up they were six inches out.something had to loose the six inches a bedroom the large hallway an ensuite or the other bedroom.anyway as the client was there I asked him what did he want to do he decided straight away.2ins here 2ins there and another 2ins there problem solved .when the client moved on the builder threw a few fucks into me for not consulting him.i was doing my best to cover up for his lack of ability to read the plans.my reply was finian you might as well have being reading the beano(a childs comic book.)moral of the story is the guy with the plans doesn't allways know what he is looking at
     
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  26. Nick Agius
    Joined: Jul 29, 2015
    Posts: 157

    Nick Agius

    I've received an email from another member including more sketches in regards image (1).png image (2).png image (3).png image (4).png image (5).png on how to assemble, Thought id put them up here for anyone doing this in future.
     

    Attached Files:

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  27. Nick Agius
    Joined: Jul 29, 2015
    Posts: 157

    Nick Agius

    Made some more progress this Sunday. Cowl tank gets picked up tomorrow so once I’ve got that in it’ll be a true tell tale as to how far in/out it really is.
    I haven’t taken a lot of measurements doing this, in fact I haven’t taken any since assembling the subframe. Not the most correct way I know but the only way I could really do it was to just get it done.
    Here’s some pics


    Please note I had the below boot panel in too low and have since adjusted it

    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG] [​IMG]


    Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  28. mgermca
    Joined: Mar 2, 2008
    Posts: 261

    mgermca
    Member

  29. Nick Agius
    Joined: Jul 29, 2015
    Posts: 157

    Nick Agius

    I believe one has attached as a thumbnail, Right at the bottom. If i have actually missed another please let me know
     
  30. I just saw you're in Brisbane too, and looked on your profile and only two years younger than me! Coming along awesome so far dude! What side of Brissy are you on? You're welcome to come look at my roadster if you need to. My cowl and doors were original and the whole back is Brookville as well. I have some photos of how i got mine going but in short.. build the subrails first, didn't realise i'd then have an issue getting the cowl in so split the first cross piece to get it stuffed in there.. then i had some measurements that i took from Burleigh Roadsters when i was there and hung the quarter panels with the gaps i measured and then got the doors hung and so forth..

    I had an issue with the boot area and the drip rails and stuff. Maybe assembled a little wrong but i had to section out 5mm from the top rain gutter piece because it just would not fit at all.

    Anyway send me a pm if you want to come have a gander at mine.
     
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