Technical April Showers Bring Banger Power

I love phaetons .

 

We'll be back in Poland soon and banger work will start again

Scans are done and next step is models and casting.

 

jimski , I envy what your doing . need a slave ???? ... steve

 

Hey fellas, I've been an avid reader of this thread for some time but have never posted here till now. I have a 28 roadster with a mild model B banger that runs an original 6:1 Winfield head, dual Winfield S AA D carbs, a Winfield 1R camshaft, a Hallock header and a 30's Mallory flat cap dizzy. Recently I blew a head gasket and on removing the head I noticed that the bores look a little 'glazed' there is no cross-hatch honing pattern at all. There is no discernible 'lip' at the top of the bores so I was kinda hoping I could re-hone the cylinder bores and put in a fresh set of rings. To be honest I have no experience with babbitt bearing type motors so I'm not sure if the crank and rods can be removed without damaging the existing babbitt bearings? I'm not even sure how to check whether the existing bearings are still any good? Does the cam run similar Babbitt type bearings? Is there an easy way to check these bearings, and if so, can the block be stripped down re-honed and put back together with the existing bearings etc?

 

E85, has anyone tried to use this fuel in a sidevalve motor?
As it's a denser fuel to air volume, runs cooler and has a softer burn rate more suited to softer Babbitt. I thought if building a car from scratch like I am it's worth a go?
Stainless tank, lines, cam and ignition/timing ideally set, it would make a ideal fuel.

 

A-boned, this can be done in the car if needed. The rod bearings use a 25/32 socket, just mark the caps and put them back where they came from. You can check the clearance with Plasta- Gauge, if they look good set them at .002-.003 be careful with the shims and keep them even on both sides. If you want to check the mains you can check them the same way, .002- .003 is ok on them also. Tape over the rod journals when you hone the cylinders. Other than good general auto work you should be fine. Good luck.--TV

 

There are no cam bearings unless modified. Normally you would use an abrasive tool called a "glaze buster" to prepare bore for new rings

 

Thanks 'TV' and 'Just Plain Bill' that's what I needed to know. It's kinda strange to learn that old Henry didn't use any sort of bearings for the camshaft, I guess it only spins at half the speed of the crank. Are there inherent issues with worn camshaft tunnels with these blocks? My understanding now is that the cam tunnel can be machined to accept a more modern camshaft 'insert' bearing?

 

A boned, yes you are right, we use bushings in the cam bores of our race motors. Some guys have put bearings but I think thats going a little far. Most of the A's and B's throw enough oil up to the cam and you don't normally see a lot of wear. We do run oil lines to our cam brgs on race motors.But for a street motor you don't need them.--TV

 

What is normally done is to fit and align bore bronze bushings but this is the extreme as most blocks are not worn that much. I had bronze bushings installed but it was kinda overkill as the car only goes 1/4 mile at a time. Align boring ain't cheap !

As to block wear it is usually found to be minimal and cast, well lubricated , is a good low speed bearing.

 

As always you guys are a encyclopedia of hot rod knowledge
Thanks fellas for answering my questions

 

Well I think I am becoming a banger tragic. In the last 6 months I have searched every banger thread I can find on most sites and everything in print.
To top it off I had my second child on the 9th April, I named him Riley.

 

picking up a header that gives me dual our of the banger, anyone have a shot of their car running duals underneath just want to see who you ran them.

 

May banger thread here:

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=878951

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Hey its may today...... banger ahead.......